1999 Evinrude Ficht E175FPLEEC dies at high speed

[BreamBass&Beyond]

Hi everyone,

I have a 1999 evinrude ficht 175 hp model # E175FPLEEC. The boat cranks up good the first time, every time and runs well to the first two or so spots that I run to. The problem usually starts on about the 3rd good run of the day that I make. Sometimes when up to speed on this run the engine will jerk as if I hit something and go dead, other times it will jerk like I hit something but not die and continue running as if nothing ever happened until a little while later when the issue repeats itself. In the instances that it does die when this happens I can crank it right back up and again it will run like nothing ever happened. No alarms are sounding when it does this. This week I purchased the evinrude diagnostic software and bootstrap to see if there were any stored codes and attached is what I got. I think that code 26 has been resolved since it hasn't occurred since I replaced an old battery that was going bad. I also believe that the tps codes are a result of me starting the engine with the tps unhooked by mistake a few times. Do any of these codes seem like they could be causing my issue? Should I be alarmed by any of these or should they all be relatively easy fixes? I plan on taking my laptop out with me and seeing if I can see what code, if any throws when this happens.

 

[oldboat1]

If your ECM is air cooled rather than water cooled, the code 49 faults might account for shutdowns (guessing here). Fancy diagnostics aside, you might replace the fuel/water filter canister as preventive maintenance. Pour contents in a glass jar and see what settles out.

 

[bassin89]

It's water cooled. I found some info on the code 49, it seems to be common with that motor and is a non-issue. One of the first things I did after this started was to replace the fuel water seperator, fuel filter and primer bulb just to see if maybe it was something as simple as that, everything looked good with the fuel at that point, that was probably 3 months ago or so.

 

[bassin89]

I'm wondering if that code 15 may be the culprit. I haven't really been able to find too much info on that one

 

[oldboat1]

I think I've seen that in reference to my old '96 S-10 pickup -- or maybe diagnostic instructions for the OBD-2 reader. You might look into auto computer diagnostics for explanations/hints/leads.

 

[Crosbyman]

ok I am no expert on much but... looking at the power dist. system ....that engine uses the famous Power dist Panel (PDP) and after reading lots of post those PDP ... they seem to have an issue with cold solder joints on main the B+ and GRD pins on the board ( 2 bottom ones)

the connections can be resoldered properly apparently no a big job if yoy are handy with an iron

maybe the high speeds are shaking things enough to mess up the power dist.... like a cold solder joint can do on " intermittent" problems

try searches to catch up on it

..just a suggestion

 

[Crosbyman]

Google... evinrude pdp cold solder

 

[oldboat1]

good suggestion on the solder joints. It is sometimes enough to carefully renew the joints with a hot iron, but likely need to add a touch of new solder.

 

[bassin89]

That's what it was with mine maybe your will be that simple as well.

 

[bassin89]

.

 

[BreamBass&Beyond]

Appreciate it guys, will try ya'lls suggestions and see if any of them help!

 

[Crosbyman]

tapping (knocking) on the PDP apparently will... or could cause some reactions
since it sends +12 to the T&T relays and other functions try a few knocks to see if things wake up or if the t&T goes dead with ..other functions faulting out atthe same time


may as well recheck for any loose fuses of bad fuse contacts on the PDP

 

[racerone]

They are very proud of that distribution panel.---Lots of beer tokens for a new one.

 

[Crosbyman]

If and I say if it is the problem my understanding is that the cold solder joints on the 12+ and grd pins can be gone over to resolder them . it probably involves removing the PDP and openning the back side to reach the culprit pins

If you are handy with a voltmeter you can probably poke around (see diagram) testing for a solid +12v on the board while tapping of wiggling the connector where pins C&D enter the PDP ex: testing for a solid +12 going back to the key switch or... +12v supply to the T&T relay sockets (pull the relay and test on the socket pins with +12v )

just a suggestion ... hope you find something

 

[BreamBass&Beyond]

I finally got a chance to get the boat back out and check some of this stuff, all the solder joints on the pdp look good, i tried tapping and shaking it and the wiring going to it while the engine was running and that didn't cause anything to happen. After that I made a long run and after running a little way had the same issue that I've been having at w.o.t., the engine jerked and went dead. Cranked it right back up and ran fine until I was at w.o.t. again and this time it jerked but didn't go dead, when it jerked I backed off the throttle a little and kept going, after this it ran fine as long as I didn't hammer it all the way down. Prior to going out I cleared all the stored codes from the computer, the only code it threw during all this today was the code 15.

 

[oldboat1]

You're not likely to see problems with solder joints. My experience is with '80s diesel Mercedes boards, notably the climate control system, as I recall. You need to run the iron over the joints on the assumption that there are hairline cracks.

 

[Crosbyman]

Q1- did you clean ALL fuse contact points in the PDP ( clean the fuses and clean the female sockets) ???
Q2- when the problem appears did you notice anything wrong with the T&T functions or.... does testing the T&T function suddenly clear up the problem with engine performance " ???

Q3... you tapped the PDP when the engine was running fine but did you try when the engine was dead ? cold solder joints are a pain... they can close up for a while and be fine... when current flows then decide to go open .
in the telephony world...common cable pairs for telephone service would be fine carrying 24 vdc or 48VDC and the occasional rings at 20 cycles at 130 ac v or so . The same cable pairs used on ( unpowered) data lines would die (go open) from oxydation and the qwick fix was a blast of 130VDC to " resolder" the oxydized cable splice. . Same basic issue on any cold solder joints... they come and go as they please .

On the assumption that the problem shows up due to heat, vibrations etc... whatever it is .... hook in a common low wattage bulb across the B+ to the switch and keep an eye on it.... that +12 to the switch is hard wired in the PDP but does need to pass via a 10 amp fuse in the PDP . IT is directly connected to the incoming main 12V supply to the PDP .

anything wrong 12v wise....(killing the engine) should also kill, weaken or flicker that lamp. The alternative would be to hook in a voltmeter and keep an eye on it. An analog needle meter is more visual .... 12v should remain steady except when actually starting the engine.

All theory mind you but a place to start if nothing else shows up.