2002 Volvo Penta 5.0 idles great then dies in gear

[Glengman]

It starts right up and idles fine and you can rev the engine up it runs great. Put it in gear it idles at low speed okay give it gas it shuts off and will not restart for an hour or so

 

[bruceb58]

You need to gives us more info...fuel injection or carb?

 

[Glengman]

Carburetor. Have ruled out bad gas and clogged fuel line

 

[Glengman]

You are right Bruce. My frustration level was very high when I wrote first post. It is a 2002 Four Winns 190 Horizon with carburated Volvo Penta 5.0 liter and SX volvo penta stern drive. It fires up immediately and runs perfect in neutral. Doesn't miss doesn't smoke, super responsive always returns to smooth idle. When you put in gear at idle it runs good. As soon as you give it gas it dies and will not restart. Been left stranded 200 ft from ramp 3 times now. Dont know if its fuel pump, electrical, or carburetor. This is my first inboard outboard. It's tough to figure out when it doesn't fail on land.

 

[Lou C]

There are a number of common problems that can cause that difficulty:
Blocked fuel tank vent
Corroded sticking anti siphon valve on the gas tank
Corrosion at terminals & relays for the electric fuel pump
It takes very little fuel for the engine to start idle or even rev in neutral but under load the problems become more apparent.

 

[Glengman]

There are a number of common problems that can cause that difficulty:
Blocked fuel tank vent
Corroded sticking anti siphon valve on the gas tank
Corrosion at terminals & relays for the electric fuel pump
It takes very little fuel for the engine to start idle or even rev in neutral but under load the problems become more apparent.

I hooked up an external fuel tank with primer bulb line directly to pump and it did same thing. I will look at electrical. Thanks

 

[Lou C]

I think that some years of Volvos had trouble with the terminals on the relay for the fuel pump; there is also the oil pressure safety switch that cuts electric power to the pump if the engine stalls to prevent the electric pump from flooding the carb.

 

[Glengman]

I am getting 13volts to the fuel pump. I guess a pressure test is next.

 

[bruceb58]

I think that some years of Volvos had trouble with the terminals on the relay for the fuel pump; there is also the oil pressure safety switch that cuts electric power to the pump if the engine stalls to prevent the electric pump from flooding the carb.

Not on Volvos...uses alternator output

Never heard anything about the terminals of the Volvo relays. So...what year Volvos have you owned?

 

[Lou C]

I think you know the answer to that question Bruce but you must admit you see many posts on boating bulletin boards of problems with V/P electric fuel pumps (paint flakes clogging the pump, terminals on the relays overheating). The guy at cavemanmechanic.com makes a nice living off these problems it seems. Meanwhile a mechanical pump can last 30 years if not longer. Is this progress?

 

[cptbill]

Almost sounds like an accelerator pump in the carb.

 

[bruceb58]

I think you know the answer to that question Bruce but you must admit you see many posts on boating bulletin boards of problems with V/P electric fuel pumps (paint flakes clogging the pump, terminals on the relays overheating). The guy at cavemanmechanic.com makes a nice living off these problems it seems. Meanwhile a mechanical pump can last 30 years if not longer. Is this progress?

He has a carb. There is one pump. The ones that had flakes were the dual pump modules used on fuel injected models. If this was a fuel injection module, you couldn't even use a mechanical pump. Starting in the mid to late 90s, GM blocks didn't even come with a place to put a mechanical pump since all automotive use was fuel injected.

The terminals have never been a problem overheating. If a pump was drawing too much current, the circuit breaker would blow WAY before a terminal would overheat.

Again, you are giving bad advice about how a Volvo fuel pump detects how an engine is running because you have never owned one.

 

[Glengman]

I will do a fuel pressure when I get home. Still on extended vacation at lake without a running boat. Boat that runs in water that is.

 

[bruceb58]

I will do a fuel pressure when I get home. Still on extended vacation at lake without a running boat. Boat that runs in water that is.

Yes...That's the first thing I would do. After that, checking float level would be my next step.

Does the fuel pump make a whining noise at all? That's the first thing they do when they start to fail. On my carb'd Volvo, that's what happened with mine.

 

[Lou C]

The basic problem with using an electric pump is that it must pull from the tank not push from the tank as in automotive applications. This I believe is due to CG regs regarding electric fuel pumps. So any restriction on the suction side can cause problems. The pump will begin to strain and overheat eventually. And regardless I’d take a good look at the relay and terminals, corrosion/oxidation happens all the time especially here in salt water land.

 

[bruceb58]

The basic problem with using an electric pump is that it must pull from the tank not push from the tank as in automotive applications. This I believe is due to CG regs regarding electric fuel pumps. So any restriction on the suction side can cause problems. The pump will begin to strain and overheat eventually. And regardless I’d take a good look at the relay and terminals, corrosion/oxidation happens all the time especially here in salt water land.

I guess you missed where he already used an external tank with a primer bulb.

 

[bruceb58]

The more I think about it, You should just replace the fuel pump. Even if it isn't the issue, Its pretty much at the end of its lifespan anyway. MIne failed around the ame number of years as yours.

Also, I always carried a short jumper to bypass the fuel pump relay. You can use it for testing or for when the relay or alternator fails. This is a picture of the circuit so you know what pins to jump.

Note: The wire in this diagram that comes form ignition switch may not be correct. It would either be from the start circuit or from the starter to allow the pump to operate while cranking. The alternator wire comes from the L1 terminal of the alternator. WOuld be worthwile monitoring that voltage to make sure it is steady.

 

[Lou C]

I guess you missed where he already used an external tank with a primer bulb.

The point was that’s what leads up to fuel pump problems....fuel system restrictions that may still exist! And if not corrected will cause the same problem in the future...

 

[bruceb58]

The point was that’s what leads up to fuel pump problems....fuel system restrictions that may still exist! And if not corrected will cause the same problem in the future...

He has a 19 year old fuel pump.

 

[Lou C]

And a 19 year old anti siphon valve on the 19 year old tank that should be replaced, as a matter of course.