2003 Johnson 90hp 2-Stroke Stator & Regulator Rectifier Issues

weaverunner

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Joined
Aug 26, 2017
Messages
13
2003 Johnson 90hp 2-Stroke J90PLSTC

A couple of months ago, the motor started developing a miss and also the tachometer would randomly bounce around regardless of the engine speed. So I tested the stator and it was way out of spec (6.5 ohms) along with some of the epoxy had melted off. I replaced it with an aftermarket CDI electronics one and everything was fine for the next several trips out on the water until last night. While running, the volt meter was only showing battery voltage and was slowly draining on our way back.

I'm almost certain the regulator/rectifier is bad but this morning after I started it up again the volt-meter was reading 13.5+ volts at idle so I don't know if it's just an intermittent issue with R/R or if it's only when the engine is hot. Also, I noticed the same issue with the tachometer randomly bouncing around.

I tested the stator and it shows 1.5 ohms which is within spec but still questioning whether it's contributing to some of my issues. Since replacing it, I noticed much longer cranking times during cold starts (10 sec+) when before I replaced it , it would fire up almost immediately. Also, I've noticed when it first starts cranking (cold starts only), it will almost hang momentarily, like there's too much compression.

Can a bad regulator/rectifier damage a new stator (or vice versa) or do my symptoms only point to the R/R? I'd like to also replace the stator with a new OEM unit, but they're nearly $400 and I am unsure if it's 100% necessary.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
If your motor has a water-cooled regulator/rectifier, make sure your cooling system is in top shape. Replace the impeller if that is due.
 

oldboat1

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Think I would take the regulator/rectifier in and have it checked. Sounds to me like a regulator issue.
 

weaverunner

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2017
Messages
13
Upon further inspection, it looks like the pins inside the connector of the new stator got pushed out of the backside of the connector. There's a rubber grommet on the backside of the connector where the wires go into it and that is the only thing holding the pins/terminals in place inside the connector. So when you attempt to plug it in, it pushes the terminals out the back creating a poor/open connection. I'm guessing the vibration of the motor eventually caused the wire for the charging circuit to become fully open. Pretty poor design. I guess you get what you pay for.

What I ended up doing is remove the terminals/wires from the connector, plugged the bare connector into the R/R, and then installed each wire making sure the spade terminals were seated properly into the R/R terminals.

I took it for a quick spin and had zero issues. Charging system is back to 14.2v. I already ordered a new R/R but will just keep it as a spare.
 

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