3.0 140 & Aloha 1 gen 2 - things to look out for ?

Rake722

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Off to view a Capri 1850 as fitted with the 3.0 LC and aloha one gen 2 out drive.

its a 1994 engine that has not been run for 3 years. Last time it ran I was out on the water with it.

the boat is a steak at $900 as the owner lost interest.

any checks that you can suggest ? I’ll be doing compression test by shorting the starter.

what else to look out for on these ?

thanks
 

Rick Stephens

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Transom and stringers first. Really hard to tell if they are rotten without drilling holes, but rotten structure is a bigger job than fixing the outdrive or motor.

3.0L motors freeze crack along the block just under the intake/exhaust manifold. Really look it over closely there.

Otherwise, a non-running boat you can't lake test or even fire up is a pure crapshoot.

Rick
 

Scott06

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$900 is probably too much. As rick mentioned floor stringers and transom rot are big concerns . Likely this has been sitting collecting water and is roached.
 

AShipShow

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Agree with the others.. if you go for it, assume your buying the trailer... cuz there's a chance that may be all you're buying... it can be restored for 3-4k if the motor and drive are good, if not, 5-7k.
 

Rake722

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Thanks for the heads up on Rot - not something I even considered.
I must strress that this boat has been stored on the dry. Its a trailer boat and has always been removed from the water after use.
as such it will have seen significantly less moisture than a marina stored boat.
Would that change your opinions ?
 

Scott06

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No water coming in through the top is the concern generally through the cover or lack there of if it sits. Drill into stringers down low and transom to see if wood is dry and solid. If it’s good plug the holes with 5200, if it’s rotted I’d walk away.
 

Rake722

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Thanks Scott, I doubt the owner will allow me to drill but I will ask.
Where would you drill for the stringer specifically ?
 

Scott Danforth

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its an early 90's bayliner. pretty much a given that there is some rot.
 

TunaFish389

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MOD EDIT - Removed for bad and unsafe advice.
 
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nola mike

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Agree with rot. Best place to check stringers and transom is as far rearward and low as you can go. also check to see if the boat looks like it's been uncovered. If it's been sitting exposed to the elements, you almost certainly have rot. other two things that you might be able to check without drilling are the front motor mount bolts. If they are loose, good chance your stringers are rotted. also check the screw holes if there is a fishing transducer in the rear. Remove the screws and probe around, same with other below waterline holes. Loose screws down there =red flag. Check the floor at the rear, around ski locker, rear seats VERY carefully for soft spots. walk away if you notice any. Cracked block tough to diagnose without running or unless engine is out of the boat. Keep in mind that even one semi major problem is going to ruin this great deal. I probably wouldn't buy a boat that's been sitting for 3 years outside, no matter how good of a deal it was. It's easy to ruin any part of it in that amount of time.
 

AShipShow

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My 96 Bayliner was a trailer queen, still rotted to hell when I bought it for $500...I knew it was rotted before I bought it so I knew what I was getting in to. I also knew the motor was good though, got a receipt from a machine shop for $2500 to rebuild the motor. Also had a new lower on the sterndrive.

Given that I knew it was worth it even though I was going to restoring the boat... If the motor or sterndrive was bad, I wouldn't have gone for it...but I liked the challenge of a hull restoration... Not sure what size boat it is, but if you're interested, I have a restoration thread
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...69-96-bayliner-2050-the-dirty-rotten-baystard
 

TunaFish389

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MOD EDIT - Removed for bad and unsafe advice.
 
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Scott Danforth

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MOD EDIT - Removed for bad and unsafe advice.

this is simply bad advice. Especially when you see how fast a rotten boat will sink when the outdrive rips loose just a bit because the transom is soft. its about 15 seconds to make sure you and everyone aboard have your PFD on
 
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TunaFish389

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MOD EDIT - Removed for bad and unsafe advice.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Rake722

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Thanks for all the advice - I’m going to inspect all screws and as much of the stringer as possible.

good tip about the engine mounts and fish finder - I’ll be on that.

i read that tapping the transom with a small hammer to listen for differences in tone is a good way of finding rot ?
 

nola mike

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i read that tapping the transom with a small hammer to listen for differences in tone is a good way of finding rot ?

Maybe if you find it you'll know somethings up, but I certainly wouldn't assume it's good just because you can't hear anything.
 

Rake722

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Thanks Mike I’ll take all your advice with me when I see it tomorrow.

it has been stored our doors with the OEM canvas cover on.
 

Rake722

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One thing that I did notice that may or may not be of consequence is that the inner transom plate look almost new.

ill take a pic tomorrow
 

JASinIL2006

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Knock test is pretty much worthless unless you are highly experienced (and even then, I'm not so sure). You really need to drill test holes from inside to see the condition of the structure. Anything else is pretty much guessing...
 
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