3.0 140 & Aloha 1 gen 2 - things to look out for ?

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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i read that tapping the transom with a small hammer to listen for differences in tone is a good way of finding rot ?

its a way to see if there is rot, many years after the wood has been wet, rotted, turned to mulch and then disappeared. there is a 10 year window of wet and starting to rot thru wet and soggy and rotten prior to it turning to mulch and then not being there to give a change in sound.

for that reason, test drills and moisture meters are about the only way
 

Rake722

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I went to see it today and I’m convinced that it is sound. Visually not a single sign of penetration. I did the knock test anyway and it sounds good and uniform all over the transom

I removed the transducer and all screws tight and no seepage when removed.

i checked the stringer bolts and they were fast. Checked the floor - all solid no softness. Transom plate inside looks as good as new.

part 1 https://youtu.be/vNUYJYKSrCE
part 2 https://youtu.be/8Wn8F5hT2yk

the owner has no time for it and just wants an easy sale
 

nola mike

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That's about all you can do. Maybe last test would be to stand on the outdrive in the up position and make sure the transom doesn't flex. That's actually probably the best test. Good luck! I mean, the other obvious thing I'd do is to take the thing on the water, but I assume this is being sold as non-running?
 

Rick Stephens

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I'd a never thought of tapping on the outside... but I guess I never really thought of testing with a hammer much. I would think tapping on the inner side would tell you more since the outside glass is really thick and inside is thin. Your floor check says a lot though. Excellent. Most common first place that you can find rot is the floor starts wicking the water up and gets soft. I'd have also stuck a little screwdriver in the transponder screw holes to see what the wood underneath felt like. Other than that, if you feel good about it, go to it.

Enjoy! Boats are spendy and take a lot of work to keep going safely. You'll learn a ton in a short time.


Rick
 

Rake722

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That's about all you can do. Maybe last test would be to stand on the outdrive in the up position and make sure the transom doesn't flex. That's actually probably the best test. Good luck! I mean, the other obvious thing I'd do is to take the thing on the water, but I assume this is being sold as non-running?

finny you mention standing on the out drive - I was thinking the same.
.
I’ll get on it tomorrow when we do a compression test and try starting it
 

Rake722

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I'd a never thought of tapping on the outside... but I guess I never really thought of testing with a hammer much. I would think tapping on the inner side would tell you more since the outside glass is really thick and inside is thin. Your floor check says a lot though. Excellent. Most common first place that you can find rot is the floor starts wicking the water up and gets soft. I'd have also stuck a little screwdriver in the transponder screw holes to see what the wood underneath felt like. Other than that, if you feel good about it, go to it.

Enjoy! Boats are spendy and take a lot of work to keep going safely. You'll learn a ton in a short time.


Rick


thanks Rick, my other is a 1986 draco 1800 with a 1977 470 fitted - I’m always learning though
 

AShipShow

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MOD EDIT - Removed for bad and unsafe advice.


There were 35 REPORTED deaths and 405 REPORTED recreational boat accidents pertaining to hull/mechanical failure in 2018 per USCG... we aren't going to come here and recommend someone take their rotting boat on the water and put their lives at risk.... you might not think it's a big deal, but there is statistical proof that it is... I know you dont take it seriously, and that's on you... i only hope you tell your friends and family that your boat might not come back with you when you let them board...
 
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Rake722

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There were 35 REPORTED deaths and 405 REPORTED recreational boat accidents pertaining to hull/mechanical failure in 2018 per USCG... we aren't going to come here and recommend someone take their rotting boat on the water and put their lives at risk.... you might not think it's a big deal, but there is statistical proof that it is... I know you dont take it seriously, and that's on you... i only hope you tell your friends and family that your boat might not come back with you when you let them board...

AGREED - And dont worry I dont think his advice is sound.
 

Rake722

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Ok back on topic - went to check the engine today, began with compression test which came back somewhat interesting.

cyl 1 - 75 psi
cyl 2 - 0 psi
cyl 3 - 140 psi
cyl 4 - 150 psi

Run her up and my god the racket from the carb was very intense. Loud mechanical clacking from the carb. I thought it was terminal.

https://youtu.be/x9OC9xDNUUo

checked drive and black sooty water

https://youtu.be/X6fC5ZGZvP0

**** engine down and rechecked compression to find 0 psi all pots.

darn lifters stuck.

ran her up again and they freed up and the engine ran smoothly.

https://youtu.be/ktloeSyAw1M

drive now ran clean water.

checked forward / reverse - all good.
trim up - no
trim down - yes
I suspect bad contact as trim pump bracket rusted badly.

called owner - explained results - price dropped to $500
 

Rake722

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...and the repeat compression was...?

I haven’t repeated as after run I tested again and got 0 on all.
i then realised that the oil must be contaminated resulting in lifters sticking and holding valves open.

to test this theory I tested the engine and tested after half an hour and got 140/150/170/150 proving the idea right

so I need to do an oil change and maybe flush and test again in fresh oil
 

TunaFish389

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MOD EDIT - Removed for bad and unsafe advice.
 
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Scott06

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MOD EDIT - Removed for bad and unsafe advice.

Do what ever you like, but that’s just plain ridiculous. If a boat didn’t need the structural support of stingers, transom , and floor manufacturers wouldn’t spend the labor dollars to install them during manufacturing
 
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TunaFish389

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MOD EDIT - Removed for bad and unsafe advice.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Rake722

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more likely the valve is hanging up due to corrosion on the stem and guide.

That may be the case, I guess I will find out if it stops after the oil flush and change. So long as compression tests consistently at around 140 PSI then no harm done I guess.

Actually - if that were the case, how do we explain the compression returning from 0 on all pots to 140 or there abouts after resting the engine for 30 mins ? My guess is the lifters are slowly emptying thus letting the valve seat.
 

Rick Stephens

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That may be the case, I guess I will find out if it stops after the oil flush and change. So long as compression tests consistently at around 140 PSI then no harm done I guess.

Actually - if that were the case, how do we explain the compression returning from 0 on all pots to 140 or there abouts after resting the engine for 30 mins ? My guess is the lifters are slowly emptying thus letting the valve seat.

If your guess is right, then your valve adjustment is too tight. As I said before, I have never seen an oil problem cause this.
 
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