Re: 383 Build
only one senser... that shuts down the fuel pump if oil pressure goes to 0. Imagine what happens if you have a boating accident (or even a cracked fuel line), the fuel system is in some way breached or leaking throuhg the carb, and the fuel pump keeps running, filling the engine compartment with fuel and vapor...
on jetting for your 1410. Needles in mine right now are 7147. To get rid of the bad off idle lean condition (apparently a problem with the 1410 because the idle circuit is not barely sufficient to feed a stock 350 at idle), I had to fatten up idle screws a god bit and go with pink springs. I didn't want to pull the top off the carb to check the mains because it was running great and I wanted to get the valves adjusted, but I'm pretty sure I have the stock mains are within one step of the facory ones. You'll know once you get it running.
Note also that the flame arrestor makes a noticable difference and required a change in metering rod when I switched. It needs different jets and picks up a few mph when I run it without one (and with the engine compartment cover off!!!). The gaffrig on there now does alot better than the stock one. I've never tried a k&n but have had good experience with their products. Before someone says (again) that the stock arrrestor doesn't look very restrictive and can't make any difference. Consider that if you're pulling 600 cfm through it, that's about 75 gallons of air per second....
On your flywheel, is your 383 internally or externally balanced??? if externally (which is really common) then final balancing of the rotating assembly is done by drilling the flywheel... I'm pretty sure that the factory flex plate for an auto transmission is not the way to go... I think they deform too much under power and can create problems. Hopefully Bond-O or someone else will chime in on the flywheel. I'mthinking the it's the same 14" as for manual transmission, but don't remember off the top of my head...
Here, dug up Bond-o's post I was thinking about:
"Maybe I can shed a little light on this......... Basically , there are 2 Chevy Flywheels...........The 12 3/4", 153 tooth, which uses the Straight across bolt pattern Starters......And,The 14", 168 tooth, which uses the Staggered bolt pattern Starters.........Now, it gets Alot more confusing......Both Flywheels can be found in the Early(pre-86) Crankshaft bolt pattern.... 3 1/4" bolt pattern(two piece rear main seals)And,The Late model(post-86) Crankshaft bolt pattern.... 3" bolt pattern(one piece rear main seal)And,Both Flywheels can be found in Internally Balance configurations(Most Chevy motors)......And, Externally Balanced configurations(400cid,SBC,+ 454cid, BBC, Yes, these flywheels Are interchangeable)......And,Even though the 4.3l uses the same two diameters, in the same two bolt patterns,The 4.3l has it's own balance problems... So, it's balanced for the 4.3l Only........ And, due to the Many different 4.3l configurations, they Should Not be swapped, without a New Balance Job.......Even through it's Known As a Neutral Balance Flywheel...........So,A Flywheel from a 305, or a 350 will be a direct interchange part........Actually, a Flywheel from a 2.5l, or a 3.0l, or a 305, or a 350 will All be a direct interchange part, Depending on the Starter Bolt Pattern......Except that the Final Fine Balancing is done for the Particular motor that it's to be bolted onto.........This is why a Balance Job Should be Mandatory for Every Engine Overhaul............BTW,Alpha's, Bravo's, OMC's, Volvo's, etc. All use Both the 12",+ the 14" flywheels............It Depends on Which Starter is used.............So,If the flywheel you have is what you say it is,It's a 153 tooth Chevy Small Block V8 flywheel... One piece rear main seal......."
also to add to above on oil pump note. The reason not to go with high volume (aside from the added stresses Bond-o mentions) is that when you run fast for very long with a stock volume oil pan and high volume pump, the pump empties the pan faster than the oil can get back and you wind up sucking air (and no oil) at the sump while you're running flat out... Went with standard volume melling pump and high capacity pan. This isn't an issue on a street car build because you don't run it at 80%+ or redline for very long...
