4.3 crankshaft/housing oil leak - next steps?

[ShoalSurvivor]

In searching back for a more detailed answer to the question above, I believe we may have covered this area for you, maybe have a quick glance back and see if it helps here any, https://forums.iboats.com/threads/spark-plug-part-number.762750/#post-5822771

Yes - I use that all the time. It's bookmarked and has been my primary source of info. And, Thank you!

I was just trying to relate it to the factory and component spec's that Scott had in his doc.

 

[airshot]

Best job would be to pull the engine....otherwise it becomes a half added job and will probably be needed done again down the road. Had that same leak on my 3.0....bought oil absorbing mats that lay in the bilge and soak up the oil so bilge stays just water. When I calculated the amount of oil being lost it wasn't worth a half cost to fix it until it leaked more. I was using about a quart of oil thru one summer season. I watched and added when it got down about a pint. Never low enough to cause a problem, just looked messy. The oil absorbing mats were not that expensive, around 30 bucks for a case. Used one mat in about two weeks, still have over half added he case left, used those for two years to be sure the oil did not get pumped into the lake. Your call, but....pulling the engine and replacing the seals was not yet worthwhile for a box of oil absorb mats and a couple quarts of oil.

 

[Lou C]

Want to laugh, well my 4.3 still has the original 1988 short block and neither the front or rear main seal leaks! Kinda like my 1998 Grand Cherokee where both front and rear pinion seals still don't leak neither do the front and rear transfer case output seals. The only thing that leaks on that vehicle is the rear main and ALL those AMC straight sixes do that. I gladly feed its habit because it runs so well still.