4.3 motor swap with truck engine

[achris]

Just because the block doesn't have a mechanical fuel pump doesn't mean its a vortec gen 2. Get the casting number off the old block or remove the intake and look for a balance shaft. If you do have a balance shaft block, the starter will fit the new engine

The Gen II block (1992-on) used both non-vortec (1992-1996) and vortec (1996 and on) heads.

 

[timharper89]

If that's the case, will the water pump fit as well then? I'm planning on starting a bit of teardown tomorrow, so I'll look for a balance shaft and try to get a better look at the casting numbers as well.

 

[achris]

If that's the case, will the water pump fit as well then? I'm planning on starting a bit of teardown tomorrow, so I'll look for a balance shaft and try to get a better look at the casting numbers as well.

Same water pump on all engines from 1992 (to current)...

Also, let us know if you have a composite or a tin timing cover..

 

[timharper89]

Same water pump on all engines from 1992 (to current)...

So since I don't have a mechanical fuel pump does that mean I can assume the water pump will fit?

 

[Rick Stephens]

So since I don't have a mechanical fuel pump does that mean I can assume the water pump will fit?

Water pump doesn't have a thing to do with fuel pump. If your original motor had a tin timing cover, and the new motor has a plastic cover, then the water pump is different.

 

[timharper89]

Water pump doesn't have a thing to do with fuel pump. If your original motor had a tin timing cover, and the new motor has a plastic cover, then the water pump is different.

Got ya. Thanks

 

[nola mike]

I thought the issue with the starter was just the mounting bolts. I must have misunderstood? What will not work with my starter?

The larger M10 bolts won't fit through the holes on the old starter. You could drill out the holes, but seriously, just go with the new starter. If you ever need to replace, the PMGR is much easier to handle.

 

[timharper89]

Sooooo....the admiral convinced me to go out for one last hoorah before I started this swap in case I completely botched it. Last season it ran low on oil, and I didn't realize it until I heard a knock mid acceleration (right around 2k rpms before appointing normal again). I was able to recreate the knock last season on muffs after I added oil and was kind of set on either replacing or rebuilding. I obviously settled on replace. Today, there was no knock. The engine ran normally. Ran it up and down under load with both my wife and I listening an couldn't hear anything. Now I'm obviously tempted to just leave it as is and roll the dice on it. We have towing insurance and are looking at another boat anyway because this one just doesn't quite suit us perfectly...

 

[nola mike]

Yeah, sorry, we've already put too much effort into this thread. Gonna have to insist that you swap something at this point

 

[Scott Danforth]

Oil induced bearing failure knock doesn't go away

Pull the drive to see if it's your ujoints

 

[timharper89]

I couldn't tell what was knocking. It sounded like it was definitely coming from the engine compartment and was loud enough that both my wife and I heard it and looked at each other. It was very random sounding. Not cyclical at all. Just rattling chaotically. Always right around 2000 rpm. No knocking at lower or higher rpms. The u joints wouldn't do that on muffs in neutral gear, would they?

 

[timharper89]

Yeah, sorry, we've already put too much effort into this thread. Gonna have to insist that you swap something at this point

I sort of feel that way myself. I was not looking forward to the swap, but I have put so much time into it already I feel like I'm invested.

 

[nola mike]

I couldn't tell what was knocking. It sounded like it was definitely coming from the engine compartment and was loud enough that both my wife and I heard it and looked at each other. It was very random sounding. Not cyclical at all. Just rattling chaotically. Always right around 2000 rpm. No knocking at lower or higher rpms. The u joints wouldn't do that on muffs in neutral gear, would they?

Yes, input shaft is always turning when the engine's running