4.3 Rebuild

alldodge

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Make sure its a marine water pump, not just an automotive one. Brass internals unless your going heat exchanger then it doesn't matter.

If you have a chain hoist, a large tree, build an A frame you can remove
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
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I did consider the A frame construction route.

That engine company specializes in marine engines, but I'll do the research too!

Thanks.
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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Tree as mentioned or tow truck. Also seen folks take boat to a shop with a forklift

google for reviews of any shop your thinking of any complaints you'll see them out there. I. Addition to center state rapido marine and Michigan motorz offer similar. I had a really good experince with Michigan motorz great customer service but this was for a new base engine so can't comment on reman work. I bought a new base engine because it was only $600-800 more than reman.
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
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Appreciate the feedback. I am headed in the morning to solve the lift puzzle. I was just telling my wife that you can certainly get lost in the interwebs rabbit hole searching these things - like anything else.

Will certainly pay close attention to reviews. Will also check out Michigan Motorz too.

Good thing is that the engine is ready to come out. Just the four mount nuts left to remove.

Fingers crossed I will be looking very closely at it tomorrow on a stand. Weird, both exhaust manifolds cracked, as did both heads. Intake looks good (from top) as does all of the block I can see.


IMG_4377-M.jpg


IMG_4379-M.jpg


IMG_4380-M.jpg


Here is that bad water inlet O-ring:
IMG_4368-M.jpg
 

Scott06

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I'd be really surprised if the block wasn't reached given what u see on the heads. Look in the lifter valley just below the heads. On the intake underside of water crossover
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
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Pictures coming shortly but this seems to be on the ‘weird’ list judging by some of the comments here. Intake looks fine, I see zero signs of any cracks.

Valley area area looks pristine and almost new.

Block looks great all over. No ill signs other than the popped core plug.

Still scares me. Looking into long bock.
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
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So I am certainly not a builder of marine engines. However, a builder nonetheless . . . and every thing I am seeing tells me to pop a set of heads on this thing and pressure test the water system outside of the boat. I'd even remove all the other core plugs and inspect behind, replace. I REALLY thought I'd see some cracks / problems.
 

alldodge

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You could give it a go, the most it will cost is some gaskets and oil
 

Bondo

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So I am certainly not a builder of marine engines. However, a builder nonetheless . . . and every thing I am seeing tells me to pop a set of heads on this thing and pressure test the water system outside of the boat. I'd even remove all the other core plugs and inspect behind, replace. I REALLY thought I'd see some cracks / problems.

Ayuh,...... Me too,.... The final Test will be a pressure test after reassembly,..... if ya throw it back together,....

Most common block crack areas are the lifter valley, 'n opposite the drain plugs, along the bottom edge of the water jacket inside the block,.....

Could be in How it froze,....
I seen it freeze, then thaw, allowin' the water to flow out a pushed core plug,.....
Alot different than a sudden sub-freezin' stretch of days,....

The crack way up high is really odd,....

Might be a good time to slap on a 4bbl. carb, 'n manifold,...... ;)
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
53
Ayuh,...... Me too,.... The final Test will be a pressure test after reassembly,..... if ya throw it back together,....

Most common block crack areas are the lifter valley, 'n opposite the drain plugs, along the bottom edge of the water jacket inside the block,.....

Could be in How it froze,....
I seen it freeze, then thaw, allowin' the water to flow out a pushed core plug,.....
Alot different than a sudden sub-freezin' stretch of days,....

The crack way up high is really odd,....

Might be a good time to slap on a 4bbl. carb, 'n manifold,...... ;)

Thanks! So ‘opposite’ the drain plugs’ - meaning the inner wall behind them, up against the center cylinder walls?
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
53
Would it be worth my time to pull the remaining core plugs to see what I can? I can order a whole set. The foward plug next to the one that popped out shows some movement as well. So I plan to remove it and replace.

Best way to remove them? Slidehammer with a screw in the center?

I have the alignment tool coming for the outdrive, and also a gasket. Hoping to get components ordered this week.
 

greno

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 23, 2012
Messages
182
Put it together. Pressure test it. If it passes. Try and run it on an engine run stand if you have access to one. If it runs for an hour with no issues put it in the boat. Go fishing.
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
53
OK. New heads and gasket set ordered. Having a heck of a time finding more than (5) core plugs on the engine - 2 on each side and one I believe on rear. Most kits I see have upwards of 8 plugs in them - searching 4.3 Vortec, even by year. There are none on the front of the engine like a small block (maybe behind timing cover?). Puzzled . . .
 

greno

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Nov 23, 2012
Messages
182

The freeze plugs behind the motor mounts and the one under the starter are usually the tough ones on the 4.3L. I replaced all mine with brass ones a while back.
 

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gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
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So basically one each under the motor mounts, then another behind those (2 total per side). Maybe one on the back of the block. Any others I am missing?

Where did you get your plugs greno?
 
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