4.3 Rebuild

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
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Took alternator to have it tested . . . . man have parts stores fallen lame to the computer! Wow, couldn't even put it on the tester without one of their own part numbers to put into the 'machine' to tell them how to test it. Just venting - I've seen it too many times before.

I remember going through 10' of books selling parts back in the day . . . no computers anywhere :)
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
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53
Alternator is back on. Pipe plugs are placed in manifolds, and removed / loctite / torqued intake bolts one at a time.

IMG_4540-M.jpg



IMG_4542-M.jpg



Latest pressure test still holding strong at 4 hours. :)
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
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Read on another thread here:

Mercruiser says the 4.3l engine model comes in at 758lbs while the 4.3 MPI engine weight is 864 lbs.

Surproied MPI adds 106lbs!

So I have the 2bbl ‘L’ model - 4.3L

Does 758lbs cover all the exhaust / risers and accessories?

One site gave a weight of ~840lbs including Alpha

What exactly is the ‘Alpha’ ? The Out Drive?

Getting concerned about lifting this complete engine back in. Seemed to give the hoist a workout in long block form - but that could just be me worrying. I also had the wrong jack handle and may have had significantly less leverage too.
 
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harringtondav

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Conventional wisdom says Merc GM engines are nearly identical to their automotive counter parts, and I believe this is true. My 4.3 LX parts manual gives a long speech about only using merc. parts. Surprise, huh?

So I'd go w/ Scott Danforth and tear yours to the ground. Buy a solid 4.3 Vortec junker w/low miles from a wreck, and reuse as many marine parts that are good. I'd say use the salvage cast iron, and reuse the rest, including crank, pistons, rods, cam, valve train etc. in the salvaged heads, and rebuild the heads with your marine parts Buy new frost plugs, and any other sea water contact parts that you need. May as well do new rings and all seals as long as you're this deep.

Engine pull is intimidating, but not so bad after you've done it. Pay attention to the rear engine mount hardware. The spacer sleeve is easy to forget or mis position. The fiber washer/lock washer must be contact cemented on the gimbal plate, or it will likely fall into the bilge when you try to start the bolts. Be sure to re tape the nuts into pocket provided. Don't move the adjusting nuts on the front mounts, else you'll be wondering about alignment. Although it is a good idea to recheck this with the alignment tool when you're this deep.

That sea water seal in the bell hsg. is ugly. Scrape and sand off enough corrosion to get a flat face on the bell hsg, but don't go past that. I contact cement the new O ring in place so it doesn't move, and cause this.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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long block is about 375#
marine exhaust is about 80#
accessories about 80#
MPI intake, fuel pumps, stuff about 100#
flywheel 35#
fluids about18#
paint about 4#
flywheel housing about 20

so.....about 710 for the bob tail

add 75 for the outdrive and about 60 for the gimble/transom for a grand total of 845....

BTW, a SBC with aluminum exhaust weighs the same.
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
53
long block is about 375#
marine exhaust is about 80#
accessories about 80#
MPI intake, fuel pumps, stuff about 100#
flywheel 35#
fluids about18#
paint about 4#
flywheel housing about 20

so.....about 710 for the bob tail

Thanks Scott! I am not MPI, so by Merc's numbers I should be ~100lbs lighter. I guess 610-650lbs is probably right. I presume 'bobtail' refers to everything 'inside' the boat? Engine fully dressed, no out drive. Trying to learn all the terms here :)

Conventional wisdom says Merc GM engines are nearly identical to their automotive counter parts, and I believe this is true. My 4.3 LX parts manual gives a long speech about only using merc. parts. Surprise, huh?

Makes sense - I could see the exhaust being a little heavier, but marginally.

. . .The fiber washer/lock washer must be contact cemented on the gimbal plate, or it will likely fall into the bilge when you try to start the bolts. Be sure to re tape the nuts into pocket provided. Don't move the adjusting nuts on the front mounts, else you'll be wondering about alignment. Although it is a good idea to recheck this with the alignment tool when you're this deep.

Fiber washers are in place, and not moving - and look good as well. What are you referring to about re-taping nuts into the pockets?

I have an alignment tool, and while not moving anything on the forward mount height, presumed it was smart to check on install.

That sea water seal in the bell hsg. is ugly. Scrape and sand off enough corrosion to get a flat face on the bell hsg, but don't go past that. I contact cement the new O ring in place so it doesn't move, and cause this.

Agree!!! I have all new seals and plan is to do exactly as you said.

Thanks all!!!
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
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GREAT video on installing a distributor on a Vortec V6 or V8 when engine has been disturbed :)

 

harringtondav

Commander
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May 26, 2018
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gergAlicious Under the fiber washer mount ears there are pockets that hold the mount clamping nuts. The nuts are trapped so they don't spin and need a back up wrench. The factory tapes these in place so they don't fall out. Make sure they're taped solid. They are very difficult, if not impossible to get back into place if they fall out. And it sucks hoisting the engine back out after you've gotten this close.
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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So that video is great if you have a genuine GM distributor . . . . blah blah blah . . .

Well, I don't. Thunderbolt V - I expect this is a Mercruiser product?

So I will start with the fact that I DID mark the distributor body alignment to the intake manifold before removing. Then the engine turned . . .

Anyhow . . . I have the engine at TDC #1, timing line on balancer centered on timing cover mark. I have dropped the distributor twice now. First landed the rotor behind the #1 cap location, and one tooth over drops it past (but closer) to the #1 plug wire location.

Now the body of the distributor is where it 'was' before removing - but whose to say it was timed correctly when I disassembled.

There are no markings are cast indicators in the distributor body like I saw in the video I posted to aim for as a landing point for the rotor @ #1. So I just marked a line on the base where the cap sets that aligns with the #1 wire location.

Pics coming.
 
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gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
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53
Definitely TDC #1.

So here is my alignment - balancer and dist. mark before removal . . .

IMG_4555-M.jpg


IMG_4553-M.jpg


Here is the first drop:

IMG_4550-M.jpg


Here is the second that I am inclined to think is correct.

IMG_4551-M.jpg


Definitely only one tooth over between the two.

I expect a number of things could be distorting this - my mark on the dist base could be off slightly, I could be off a degree on the timing mark - I tried to look at it as square as possible . . . AND the thing may have been timed wrong in the first place.

My dist. mark was made at an angle, and could also be off slightly. Would improve it a minuscule amount if I rotate body.

Thoughts?

THANKS
 

alldodge

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If both valaes are closed on No 1 cylinder your close enough

IMG_4555-M.jpg
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
53
Definitely - observed them for 2 rotations, then watched intake close and even did the thumb over the plug hole to verify compression. So this looks like the right 'drop' to go with?

IMG_4551-M.jpg
 

TurtleTamer

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 10, 2018
Messages
143
You can turn the distributor body a pretty insane amount in either direction so I'd think either stabbed position would be good. The first one does appear a lot closer. Either way you'd have had to set timing again.
 

gergAlicious

Seaman
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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
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Agreed. I know it ran well in its original position, that’s why I’m trying to keep those marks aligned, and going with the best position that aligns the rotor with the cap @ #1.

This thing has no timing scale whatsoever. I suppose it goes into timing mode with the jumper wire, then you time it against that balancer mark to the indention on the timing cover?
 
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