5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

[StevenT]

I'm removing my Engine Today hopefully. It's a 5.7 OMC attached to a Mercuiser Alpha One. My biggest concern are lift points. I don't want to use a carb plate on my aluminum intake. Suggestions? Please.

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[Pete104]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

OMC never worried about that either. No, really, they did have lift rings. The lift rings were fastened to the heads. But they are long gone since the alum. manifold came along!
Why are you afraid of lifting from the carb plate?

 

[Silly Seville]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

Without knowing exactly what you intend to do with the engine once you get it out, I can only offer up the following. Remove the exhaust manifolds (lightens the load considerably) and use the now available exhaust bolt holes to attach a chain on either side (opposite ends) Now just buy/rent a spreader bar, attach to the two chains and voila!

 

[buzzm19]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

Steve, I see that you can take off the lower alternator bracket where it goes to the head and use that bolt hole and I am sure you can find a bolt hole on the rear of the other head also. The only thing is removing the carb for clearence and use a longer chain, and put some rags on top of the motor. Buz

 

[StevenT]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

OMC never worried about that either. No, really, they did have lift rings. The lift rings were fastened to the heads. But they are long gone since the alum. manifold came along!
Why are you afraid of lifting from the carb plate?

Not sure I trust all that weight in a Edelbrock aluminum intake.

 

[greg82255]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

I'd remove the exhaust manifolds and use 2 grade 8 bolts in the heads to attach your chain. I believe they are 3/8-16 threads.

Not to change the subject, but do I see one center rise manifold and one log manifold on that engine??

 

[StevenT]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

Without knowing exactly what you intend to do with the engine once you get it out, I can only offer up the following. Remove the exhaust manifolds (lightens the load considerably) and use the now available exhaust bolt holes to attach a chain on either side (opposite ends) Now just buy/rent a spreader bar, attach to the two chains and voila!

I'm pulling the engine with manifolds on. I'm replacing deck, stringers , and transom. 1988 Chaparral SX-1900. Sweet engine you have there.

 

[StevenT]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

I'd remove the exhaust manifolds and use 2 grade 8 bolts in the heads to attach your chain. I believe they are 3/8-16 threads.

Not to change the subject, but do I see one center rise manifold and one log manifold on that engine??

Yes you do. I bought this boat to restore. I have merc parts to replace the OMC with. I have another parts boat.

 

[dubs283]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

do I see one center rise manifold and one log manifold on that engine??

yep, and really high rise riser on the one side too

kinda makes me wonder about the quality of the rest of the engine package....

to the op - remove what you have to and attach a chain to the heads using, as posted earlier, 3/8" X 16 bolts

this will provide ample "pulling" force to lift the engine (including exhaust manifolds)

remember - saftey first!!! double, triple check your set-up before lifting the engine, and go slowly - use a quality flashlite to inspect while pulling (look underneath while the enigne assy is up, on those "cob-jobs" hidden ground wires, etc... can be a pain)

 

[tpenfield]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

If you don't want to lift by the manifold and don't want to take the manifold off . . . you should be able to find some unused bolt holes on either end of the cylinder heads that you can use as lift points. You might have to loosen some of the belt driven items on the front of the engine to gain access.

You also may want 3 or 4 lift points for stability, since engine are usually lifted by the manifolds, and are not so stable when lifting from points lower on the engine.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

there is more than meets the eye here,differrent manifolds, risers and who knows what else.
OMC shift interupter for a merc application?
I also see a hose on the log`s manifold riser, exactly where does that go?
your best bet is to remove the manifolds first, use those holes to attach the lifting chain,

 

[StevenT]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

yep, and really high rise riser on the one side too

kinda makes me wonder about the quality of the rest of the engine package....

to the op - remove what you have to and attach a chain to the heads using, as posted earlier, 3/8" X 16 bolts

this will provide ample "pulling" force to lift the engine (including exhaust manifolds)

remember - saftey first!!! double, triple check your set-up before lifting the engine, and go slowly - use a quality flashlite to inspect while pulling (look underneath while the enigne assy is up, on those "cob-jobs" hidden ground wires, etc... can be a pain)

Sometimes when people try to save a penny, they end up spending a dollar

It is best to fully understand how to properly operate, inspect, troubleshoot and repair your equipment
​

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I like this quote

 

[StevenT]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

And that would be a mistake. Taking them off is no big deal and will make pulling the engine much easier.

I'm going to reinstall the engine in a few months after I glass in the new transom, mounts....etc. Why would it be a mistake to pull engine with manifold on?

 

[Bondo]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

I'm going to reinstall the engine in a few months after I glass in the new transom, mounts....etc. Why would it be a mistake to pull engine with manifold on?

Ayuh,.... Because it's nearly an extra couple hundred pounds, 'n ya Need to use those bolt holes to attach yer chains....

They've Got to come off anyways,...
Yer life will be Easier, if ya pull 'em Now, insteada Later...

 

[StevenT]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

Ayuh,.... Because it's nearly an extra couple hundred pounds, 'n ya Need to use those bolt holes to attach yer chains....

They've Got to come off anyways,...
Yer life will be Easier, if ya pull 'em Now, insteada Later...

OK....I'll go with the experience and wisdom on this forum. I appreciate everyone's help here. I'll reinstall with my merc manifolds. It won't be to much work to yank them off my old engine before I pull it

 

[StevenT]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

I did some research about using lift plates on aluminum intakes. I found this post. I thought you guys might find it interesting.

Re: Engine Lift Plate on Aluminum intake?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 79943 i agree the bolts in tensile such as with a lift plate are far stronger than a chain link in shear. the bolts and plate i would not worry about. i am not as comfortable with the threads in the cast aluminum or for that matter the aluminum period. i suppose it would be fine with a big block even with cast iron heads. i will be lifting mine pretty soon (i hope) and i will do some research to find out the tensile strengh of the aluminum which i assume is probably T6000 series(?) not sure about that.

Once again... I dont have much classwork this week, so I'm going to put this engineering education to good use.


A 319.0 alloy would most likely be used for a sand cast manifold. :

Here are the lowest numbers I can find for the variants of 319.0 Al.

Aluminum alloy 319.0-F (as cast)
Tensile strength - 34,000psi
Yield Strength - 19,000psi



If you look at my previous post, the second half was figuring the stresses on the internal threads in the aluminum. The numbers I came up with are laughably low in comparison to what the material can actually handle.


Or we could do it this way:
load maximum = [yield stress] * [thread stress area * number of threads of engagement)


Using the same 5/16"-18 bolt threads.
Yield Stress = 19,000psi
Thread Stress Area = ~0.03304192in^2
Number of threads engaged = We'll say 18 (1")

Your max load per bolt hole would be ~11,000 lbs.

Distribute the stresses over 4 bolts instead of 1, and you raise you max load to ~44,000lbs.

Still scared to lift that BBC?


Trust me. The people who designed these parts did lots of calculations and FEA before they even thought about actually making the piece. You'll be fine.


BTW, just for fun, I'm going to have my Strength of Materials Prof. look over these numbers... I want to make sure I'm right.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silver69Camaro lifting 1000lbs from four studs is a drop in the bucket.

Or in lay-terms

I couldn't have said it better myself.


- Matt

 

[StevenT]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

Update with video and pix. Thanks for all the help.

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[Pete104]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

Thanks, MOM!
It's a little scary but life is boring w/o a little excitement!

 

[StevenT]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

Thanks, MOM!
It's a little scary but life is boring w/o a little excitement!

Thanks Pete. She's 80 years old and has moderate dementia. It's very therapeutic for her to help me do projects. No worries I won't have her grinding out the old fiberglass. I am willing to offer it to any of you guys though.

 

[littlebookworm]

Re: 5.7 Engine Removal - Help Needed--With Pix

Great job pulling the engine. As to the fiberglass work: Wear the correct mask! I just did some cutting in my dash with a Ziptool. I moved the VHF radio from the bottom of the dash (where I couldn't even see it, never mind use it) to the top of the dash. I was wearing a tight-fitting, heavy paper mask. WRONG. When I was done, I tasted some fiberglass, which meant I had breathed in some. The next day I had a cough. A few days later, I had an ambulance ride to the emergency room because I had difficulty breathing. To make a long story short - no pneumonia, just lung irritation from fiberglass. respiratory therapy helped; continued use of a nebulizer required. It should clear up in another 2-3 months. I should have known better since I used to be in the auto repair business. Wear the correct mask. Good luck with the rest of your project and post som,e photos when you're done. Hy