57 Lark - do I want to do this??

[sonoramike]

considering an old 14' hull that has what I think is a 57 Lark 35 on the back (white black red w/front cover but no SN found since I didn't know where to look prior to going to see it) to convert into a flat decked rig for some CA Delta bass fishing. I know nothing of these motors, wondering what I need to know before I consider plunking down some cash. Reliable? parts still available? comes with 2 tanks

It has the electric start and steering control. I like the idea of electric start and it still has the pull rope w/ knob attached behind front cover but would prob want to convert to a tiller setup (where am I going to put that big ol steering wheel?) and keep the fwd/neut/rev and throttle controls

so what am I getting myself into? from what I read these were the flagship motors in 57 but this thing is a year older than I am, and I know how I feel...

 

[wildmaninal]

Re: 57 Lark - do I want to do this??

If you don't have a compression gauge I would borrow one to do a compression check with look for over 100 pounds on the compression.

Also if the hull is lake worthy ask the owner if he will take you out on the lake with the boat for a test run.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 57 Lark - do I want to do this??

the motor is a great motor. if it has good compression, it could be a good runner for around $200-250. coils, points, condensers, plug wires, impeller, carb kit. the one draw back is that these at this age can have a bad Clutch Dog. with is the shifter in the lower unit. they can be replaced if you can find a good one. you will need the black box on the transom, for the electric start to work. also finding a tiller handle to fix may be a problem. but it could be a really great find, also.

another thing, isn't there a 2 stroke law in CA? does this motor fall under it.

 

[sonoramike]

Re: 57 Lark - do I want to do this??

If you don't have a compression gauge I would borrow one to do a compression check with look for over 100 pounds on the compression.

Also if the hull is lake worthy ask the owner if he will take you out on the lake with the boat for a test run.

will def need a ride on the water at WOT prior to opening the wallet. good idea on the compression gauge, will add that to my list, thanks

 

[sonoramike]

Re: 57 Lark - do I want to do this??

another thing, isn't there a 2 stroke law in CA? does this motor fall under it.

only for new motor sales

thanks for the other info, I did shift it and couldn't tell if it went into gear or not

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 57 Lark - do I want to do this??

you can tell until it is in the water, with a load on it. it will kick like you hit a log, or will slip out of gear, if the dog is bad.

 

[wildmaninal]

Re: 57 Lark - do I want to do this??

only for new motor sales

thanks for the other info, I did shift it and couldn't tell if it went into gear or not

If the recoil start works put it in gear and just gently pull the rope to see if the propeller turns, then try in reverse the same way. The reason I say gently is because you don't want to start the motor. You may need to hold pressure on the shift lever while pulling the rope to make it go in gear.

But if you are going to take it to the lake you won't half to worry about what I just posted anyway.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 57 Lark - do I want to do this??

In looking at your motor, it may not be a completely stock '57 Lark. The powerhead has been painted (see paint on rubber boot at the throttle linkage), indicating that it may be a replacement from a regular Bigtwin, or a Johnson Seahorse. I mention this only because it devalues the motor to some collectors, so don't let the owner talk you up on price, under the theory that its an original Lark.

When you look at the motor next time, take a good look at the steering yoke on the front of the motor. If you look at the bar, right above and to the port side of the bracket bolt that connects to the steering cable, it looks like there may be a crack in the yoke. Its hard to tell from a photo but I see a line running front to back that may or may not be an issue. This should be fixable but don't try to weld it yourself - find a professional welder with experience in welding cast aluminum.

Having two pressure tanks will be valuable if they are in usable condition and you wish to let the motor remain as is. On the other hand, these motors are very easily converted for use with non-pressurized tanks by adding a fuel pump.

The clutch dog situation may or may not be an issue. If the gearcase is original, or is off of another '57 OMC 35hp motor, you most likely will not be able to find a new replacement. According to my local OMC/BRP dealer, they were changed in '58 and, while those dogs are still available, the older ones are not.

If you do a compression test, be sure to use the starter motor to turn the engine over. That motor has a compression relief system (see the flat bar coming from under the flywheel and the spring loaded poppets on the cylinder head) and will not give you a true reading if you use the recoil starter. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder that you are not testing to lessen the load on the starter.

This motor is missing the air silencer that would normally be mounted at the front of the carburetor. If the seller has it, I would want it if I bought the motor. You can leave it off but the motor will be noisier. I would, however, put a screen on the face of the carb to keep junk out of it. If you can find one off of a later model OMC 28hp or 33hp motor, it will fit that carb.

If you wish to retain remote steering capability but don't want to have a steering console, you may wish to consider side stick steering. There is a company called "Ezy-Glide" that makes a system that is compatible with the push/pull type cable assembly that is already on the boat. This system can be purchased right here at iboats.