65Hp Evinrude bogging at WOT

[tr918]

Re: 65Hp Evinrude bogging at WOT

That is what is confusing me. If it was compression, I should a problem on all three cylinders. It would probably idle real bad also right? The shops numbers point to cylinder 1 as the worst cylinder? <br /><br />At idle I can pull the plug wires and the rpms drop on all three cylinders - indicating that all 3 are firing at idle. At WOT on the water, when I pull the plug wires I get an RPM drop on Cylinders 1 and 3 . No RPM change on CYL #2... which means no spark/fire,right? This was after new coils, swapping positions of new coils, and a new power pack. <br /><br /> <br />Are the point gaps in the timer/sensor base? If they are then no I haven't checked them. I don't think my engine has points and a condensor. I have not removed the flywheeel yet(was afraid of messing something up). I have stator magneto coils and a sensor/timer base under the flywheel. And a rectifier, powerpack, and three ignition coils on the side of the motor.

 

[fireman57]

Re: 65Hp Evinrude bogging at WOT

I don't have a manual for your engine but I believe that the 72's still had points. They are under your flywheel. You can get a cheap puller for around 15 bucks. Make sure that you torque it back down to spec or you will end up shearing the flywheel key. Clean and recheck your point gap and look for a bad wire from the condenser or anywhere else under there. It's not a tough job to do. If you don't have a puller then you may be able to unscrew the nut on top of the flywheel and leave it in the shaft about 3/4 of the way in the threads and use a piece of 2x4 with a hammer and strike the board on the nut a few times and it might loosen the flywheel for you. You will need a torque wrench to retighten it though.

 

[tr918]

Re: 65Hp Evinrude bogging at WOT

Here is a link to the diagram for my engine ignition system 1972 65hp model# 65273s <br /><br />No points and condensors. <br /><br />In order to remove the flywheel, do I need to have a special tool to keep the crankshaft from moving? I was afraid of not being able to get the flywheel marks lined up to TDC.

 

[fireman57]

Re: 65Hp Evinrude bogging at WOT

Like I said it would be nice to have a flywheel puller and you should be able to find one for about 15 bucks at a cut rate tool center. Make sure that there is not goo dripping down on your stator. The flywheel key lines your flywheel up for you. Get an OMC manual. It will save you a lot of time and frustration not to mention money. You must torque it down to spec when putting it back on.

 

[tr918]

Re: 65Hp Evinrude bogging at WOT

Thanks. Getting a puller will be no problem. Good to know about the flywheel key. <br /><br />I checked compression last night. It was raining outside so I did a quick check with the engine cold in the garage. Cylinder 1 - 120-125psi Cylinder 2 - 135psi Cylinder 3 - 135psi. <br /><br />I need to check it after the motor has had a chance to warm up and everything has had a chance to expand. I want to see if I can duplicate the shop's numbers. <br /><br />Question: Is it possible for the compression to change that dramatically? Which is the correct way to check compression, with the motor warm or cold?<br /><br />Thanks again

 

[fireman57]

Re: 65Hp Evinrude bogging at WOT

You can do it cold just make sure all the plugs are out. You can also do a search on this site on how the pros do it. You will want to take a couple of readings on each cylinder. I don't believe it is a compression problem but it would be nice to know the exact numbers. Just because the key is in there and you can see it from the top does not mean it is not sheared or sloppy.

 

[tr918]

Re: 65Hp Evinrude bogging at WOT

All plugs were out. I will inspect and most likely change the flywheel key when I remove the flywheel. I'll do a search on the correct procedure and post the numbers. Thanks

 

[fireman57]

Re: 65Hp Evinrude bogging at WOT

Rachael, Is there anything new?