'69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

[baytonemus]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

Well, I certainly don't whether or not the top/btm installation of these parts may have changed from time to time or varied depending on HP, etc. However, this is a 1969 (or maybe 1970) 40hp LU. The parts install from the bottom as shown in these photos.

 

[Daviet]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

Maybe they did change with the years, the one I did was quite a bit newer.
If F_R says they go in from the bottom, it must be true. I flipped the housing over so many times I could have been on the wrong side.

 

[baytonemus]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

I flipped the housing over so many times I could have been on the wrong side.

I think you just described the real estate bubble...

 

[Daviet]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

I'm pretty sure that bubble poped right over my head.

 

[F_R]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

All of those guys that ater telling you that the bushing goes in from the top side are correct---EXCEPT they are talking about the wrong motor.

Not only that, the parts books are wrong. So, if the guys drawing the books don't know how it goes, how are we supposed to know?

EDIT: Way back yonder in the days of yore they had the book right. Then somebody had to change it. Here is a 1963:

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

The principal of R&R on them should still be the same, should it not?

 

[F_R]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

The principal of R&R on them should still be the same, should it not?

Sure it is. It's just a matter of which way you poke it.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

Another vivid demonstration of why FR gets the big bucks....

 

[baytonemus]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

OK, I'm off to buy a long tap wrench...

Now that I'm almost completely rebuilding this LU - water pump seal, O-ring, impeller, plate, & all grommets plus ds oil seal, upper bearing, plus shifter bushing, O-ring, & gasket, AND the O-ring for the gearcase head - am I going to regret not having replaced the upper pinion bearing? Like I said initially, that shaft looks good down there and I can't see any problem with that bearing.

 

[F_R]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

Another vivid demonstration of why FR gets the big bucks....

Yeah, right, sure. When did that start? Right now I am losing money big time on a good buddy job.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

The threading does not have to be 100% perfect, just good enough for a bolt to engage.
The bushing has the correct bore to equal the tap drill size for 5/16 and soft material, so the tap will track straight.
The tap should have a 1/4" square drive....reverse a 1/4" drive socket and get a hex bolt that matches the socket hex....3/8 would be fine. Lock two nuts at the end of the bolt and use that as an extension to drive the tap.
No need for a long tap wrench for one job....my 2 cents.

If you meant that you are buying a long tap, and you don't have a regular length one already, disregard this post....

 

[baytonemus]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

No need for a long tap wrench for one job....my 2 cents.

Actually, I've never had a tap wrench at all. I've just turned them in with a visegrips or similar. I ended up buying a pair of Irwin tap sockets that I can drive with a 3/8" socket and extension. I think these will come in very handy.

Thanks, Tim.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

Nice tool...which you will use more than once.
Well played sir!...

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

 

[baytonemus]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

Thanks, although I spoke too soon. The larger of the two tap sockets was required for the 5/16" tap, but has too large a diameter to fit down inside the case. Bummer.

Not to worry, though. I ultimately followed your suggestion (basically) and pieced together a 7/16" - 1/4" drive socket upside down on the tap, then a long 1/4" bold upside down inside of that, plus two nuts locked together at the top to drive it. See lower portion of this photo:



In the upper portion you can see how I set up a puller using a piece of 5/16" threaded rod down into the tapped bushing. There are again two nuts at the top locked together which I held with the socket wrench to keep the rod from turning. Then, I just tightened the nut on top of the fender washer above the puller. It was still reluctant to come out but it did crack loose. Felt tight the whole way out, though. Here's what the parts looked like after removal:



I've posted the photos for the benefit of the next person who needs to do this job.

Still wondering about cleaning out these bores, however. Can I use a red Scotchbrite pad or maybe a real soft, fine brass wire brush in a slow drill? From having rebuilt motorcycle brake calipers and master cylinders I know how careful you have to be with aluminum, but the right tool can do a nice job cleaning these parts up. Obviously the new parts still need to fit tightly, so I'd appreciate input from those of you who have done this before.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

Nicely done!
I'd just put the assembly back together as is, but if you have the manual, does it say anything about loctite or similar on the bushing?

I used a 3/16 threaded rod as a draw-bar and when I tightened the nut it drew the bushing in smoothly and to the right depth.

 

[baytonemus]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

Thanks!

I was going to tap the new one in with a socket but your idea seems like a good one, too. The manual does not say anything about using Locktite or any other adhesive when installing that bushing.

Not to be a broken record (in case anyone still remembers what those were like), but I'm still wondering about whether or not I should clean up the bores for the upper bearing, oil seal, and this bushing.

By the way, I painted the upper gearcase, skeg, and exhaust housing extension covers using a good 2 part DuPont automotive paint and it really looks nice. Not a perfect match for the original finish but pretty darned close. I'd like to paint the rest of the motor but that's not going to happen this fall. I'll post a picture when I have the LU reassembled.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

...
I'd just put the assembly back together as is, but if you have the manual, does it say anything about loctite or similar on the bushing?

Without seeing the bore, hard to say, but intuitively I'd be reluctant to do anything that might dimension those bores.
I'd be more inclined to use a judicious bit of a sealer like a Loctite or Permatex tp ensure a liquid-sight seal.

 

[baytonemus]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

On the matter of sealants in general, I think I've read 50 threads on this topic but, predictably, there are a number of different opinions. Here's what I'm planning to do when I put this thing back together...

Use NO adhesive or sealer on:
- driveshaft oil seal
- driveshaft needle bearing
- prop shaft seal
- shift rod bushing

Use 3M #847 on:
- spaghetti seal
- skeg mounting screws threads
- (maybe also on prop shaft seal retainer O-ring?)
- bottom of water pump plate (does sealant go on every surface of this plate that contacts the gearcase including the "( )" surfaces?)
- water pump mounting screws threads

If any of this is not correct or I'm missing something, please let em know. Thanks again!

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

If you don't have the OEM manual (it's worth getting) I'd wait for input from someone who does.

The OEM instructions for my 6 hp E/rude (may or may not be same instructions for your motor) were sealer on the bore where a seal was placed....i.e. the prop shaft seal....driveshaft seal...and shift rod o-ring. My bushing went in from the top...i.e. outside gear case so I didn't worry about it.
The sealer was only on the bore surface.
....and all screws.

I use Permatex (the red goo) and have always had good results.

 

[baytonemus]

Re: '69 40hp LU driveshaft bearing

Thanks, Tim. I do have the OEM manual and what I described is based on those instructions (with the 847 being the current substitute for Sealer 1000 according to F_R). My only departure from the manual is that it specifies Perfect Seal #4 for the screws on the skeg and water pump housing.

The reason I'm asking for input is that A) I've had a couple of these lower units apart now and they've both had sealant around the outer edge of the prop shaft seal retainer, and B) quite a few people on this list who seem to have a lot of experience are using alternate products, plus C) these motors weren't 50 years old when those instructions were written and it's not inconceivable that some sealant or adhesive (possibly not available in the '60s) would now be required in the bores where it hadn't been originally.