7.4GLPLKD starts and dies immediatly..

WimJall

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Long story short.. (maybe not so short i dunno yet..)
I get 1997 four winns from father inlaw. get it cleaned up, runs great and then put in water, find the transom shield is cracked ( taking in copious amounts of water)
Find new shield.. pull engine, replace replace shield.. put everything back together ( after about 4 hours of aligning engine and gimble housing up..
Engine fires and then dies right away..
Like literally turn key to crank, fire sof and dies. Doesn't stay running if you hold key to crank.. turn key off, and back to crank hits right off..
Gone over every single connection that I removed to take engine out ( there's maybe 4..) and haven't found any issues..
When removing the large engine, the sensor on back side (gimble housing) made contact when removing engine ( removed fuel pump and used intake mounted plate to reinstall)
Only damage done was scraped a tad but of electric tape on harness.
What am I missing? I cannot find a wiring diagram, or even really know where to start..any help.?.
 

bruceb58

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You may have to look at the voltage to your electronic ignition with the key in the on position. Somehow, you are getting voltage while you are cranking but not when the ignition is in the start position.

You have the same exact engine/drive in the boat I just sold. I actually pulled the distributor and replaced with a Delco Voyager many years ago just to be proactive since that ignition system was only used for a couple years.
 

WimJall

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You may have to look at the voltage to your electronic ignition with the key in the on position. Somehow, you are getting voltage while you are cranking but not when the ignition is in the start position.

You have the same exact engine/drive in the boat I just sold. I actually pulled the distributor and replaced with a Delco Voyager many years ago just to be proactive since that ignition system was only used for a couple years.
You have a wiring diagram handy?
 

alldodge

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Put a voltmeter on the + side of the coil and turn key ON to see if 12V is present

I have diagrams for GL A thru E, here is the E
 

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WimJall

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Put a voltmeter on the + side of the coil and turn key ON to see if 12V is present

I have diagrams for GL A thru E, here is the E
Thats not the coil I have..
Mine is like a module, has 10 wires.
 

WimJall

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alldodge

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The orange comes directly from the starter post.

Go to the key switch and there should be 12V on the Purple with key ON
If not, look at kill switch (man overboard) and see if power is on both sides
 

WimJall

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The orange comes directly from the starter post.

Go to the key switch and there should be 12V on the Purple with key ON
If not, look at kill switch (man overboard) and see if power is on both sides
Kill switch works.. with that undone.. I lose all power to dash and key switch
But.. I can keep it running if I hold key switch to crank but the starter obviously stays spinning.
 

alldodge

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Good, then the problem is on the motor and something is disconnected or broken. The purple wire comes from the key on pin 5 of the 10 pin connector.

From there it goes to the ALT, starter (small post on outboard side), coil and alarm. Pull the engine connector and check the pins
 

WimJall

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Good, then the problem is on the motor and something is disconnected or broken. The purple wire comes from the key on pin 5 of the 10 pin connector.

From there it goes to the ALT, starter (small post on outboard side), coil and alarm. Pull the engine connector and check the pins
When I ohm the cannon plug to engine.. one lead on purple at ignition.. I only get continuity on pin 1 and 10
 

WimJall

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When I ohm the cannon plug to engine.. one lead on purple at ignition.. I only get continuity on pin 1 and 10
Also.. with cannon plug unplugged and key switch to run i get 0v on all pins of the cannon plug ..
 

alldodge

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You would get 0V on all pins but 6 on the motor side. Pin 6 on the motor feeds power to the key switch

Check continuity between pin 5 on the motor side to ALT and starter small post on outboard side. If it checks good, ring out pin 5 on the harness side to the key purple wire
 

WimJall

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When you're
You would get 0V on all pins but 6 on the motor side. Pin 6 on the motor feeds power to the key switch

Check continuity between pin 5 on the motor side to ALT and starter small post on outboard side. If it checks good, ring out pin 5 on the harness side to the key purple wire
Saying motor side.. you mean unplugged the cannon plug and check female side thats mounted to riser yes?
 

WimJall

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When you're

Saying motor side.. you mean unplugged the cannon plug and check female side thats mounted to riser yes?
Continuity is good on those. Pin 5 female to EXC of alt and too the signal wire (purple) of the starter.
 

WimJall

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Cont
good. there has to be a break going back to the key
Ohmd pin 5 to key switches purple wires and they are no good....
Keep one lead on purple wires that go to key switch.. and touch other lead to ground and shows continuity
 

alldodge

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Then your key switch is bad
Key ON and no power to the ALT, but wiring checks out.
Kill switch must be on the Red/Purple and not the Purple like all other boats

Either that or something was missed

Connect 10 pin back up.
Turn key ON and measure power at the key purple wire
 
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