Re: 75 Merc No Fire
No it doesn't. The current flow is blocked by the other diodes. If 2 diodes are shorted, they don't stay that way for very long (measured in milliseconds, about long enough for the current to blow one open).
A shorted diode can stay shorted indefinitely. How else would we be able to verify a diode can short? If they all shorted to point of opening, we'd never be able to verify a shorted diode.
All that will happen is that a shorted positive diode will reduce the output current, and introduce some ripple, but only on the charging system. 12 volts from the battery isn't enough to influence the 400 volts from the ignition stator.
Absolutely 12VDC can influence 400VAC from a stator, especially at the amperage associated with a battery.
As I stated earlier, the charging system and the ignition system share the engine block, nothing more.
On most outboards, a stator & a regulator/rectifier share the same ground frame & laminations, thus they share the same electromagnetic field. The charge coils on a stator also share this same ground frame & laminations, thus they share the same electromagnetic field.
When a stator & regulator/rectifier do not share the same ground frame, as in the case of a Mercury 2 cylinder 339-7452 ignition, isolating the regulator/rectifier from the circuit is futile, making your statements correct.
More often than not, when a stator's battery charge windings show "browning" by shorting together, a shorted regulator/rectifier has caused this. Occasionally, excessive heat will cause the stator's protective varnish to melt, causing a stator's battery charge windings to "brown" by shorting together, but those cases are in the minority. Excessive heat typically causes a widespread stator "browning" or shorting. A shorted regulator/rectifier typically causes "browning" or shorting on one stator pole.
As later stated by the OP, he replaced the stator (not the rectifier/regulator) and the problem was solved.
A charge coil on his stator failed, not the regulator/rectifier, which is, in numbers, by far a bigger No Spark culprit than a failed regulator/rectifier.
Again, we have verified through numerous troubleshooting calls over the years that disconnecting the regulator/rectifier has solved No Spark conditions & high-speed misses.
That's why we list this troubleshooting step in all applications where a stator & regulator/rectifier share the same ground frame. It's simple to do & doesn't require meters or other equipment. We've seen plenty of instances where guys wasted time and/or money by omitting this step. It doesn't happen as often as other issues, but we've seen it enough to warrant mentioning in nearly every application in our troubleshooting guide.
We would certainly welcome you to contact us by phone to verify these statements. Ask for Sean. He'll be more than happy to discuss.