79 Starcraft SS18 Project

[GLG fishing]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Looking good. You guys are animals running 6 rods. Out here we never run more than four. Two rods are more the norm. I know it?s different fishing but I have been fishing with four rods and all four go off at the same time and that?s with two guys. Can you say gong show LOL. Great to see your project coming together.
GLG

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

My speedo has the pitot tube and one white wire on the back. When I tore the dash down, the white wire wasn't connected to anything. Since this is a mechanical speedo, does anyone else have one, and is the wire for backlighting?

If it is, I will connect it(jump it) with the NAV lights for power and I suppose pig ground it to the bus bar?

Thanks

 

[GLG fishing]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Trace the wire into the speedo and see if it connects to the bulb.
Test to see if the bulb is good and if so connect as you have said.
GLG

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

workin on the interior, electric on hold.............

aft deck.............in progress

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Cut the 2 piece bow deck and had to make a change on the fly

The original plan when I added the extra deck surface for the seat pedestal created a nice space for a 24v battery system. Unfortunately, the area between the seat base and the seaming of the 2 pieces disallow the correct size hatch to service 2 batteries, thus......................

The void will be filled with the flotation foam that used to reside on each bulkhead wall, the same 2 pieces of foam that included the "mystery piece" of metal addressed on a previous restoration. Those L shaped pieces held the foam blocks in place????

Here was where they use to be.....................

So now, the port side hatch will harbor those batteries.

 

[local825]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Hey it looks like your project is coming along great,I have a similar one going on here in PA, wife wont let the boat stay in the garage though, question are you going too glass any of the wood in the frame? and where are you hooking your guages too for power? I just did a transom pour with Seacast came out better than great hope to post some pics...

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Hey it looks like your project is coming along great,I have a similar one going on here in PA, wife wont let the boat stay in the garage though, question are you going too glass any of the wood in the frame? and where are you hooking your guages too for power? I just did a transom pour with Seacast came out better than great hope to post some pics...

My project is more a fixup, not a full Resto. The transom was replaced by previous owners boat dealer. Not using any glass, etc. on decking or framing. Any wood framing was clear epoxied and then primed with 2 coats of KILZ Premium white, same as decking. All lid cuts inside jambs are also lined with NASHUA waterproof butyl tape. This stuff works great and protects the laminates. I also used Loctite between each main deck seam to assist in joining them, then taped the seam with this stuff. Between all that, a high grade floor adhesive, quality carpeting, keeping the boat double covered, it should work.

I only have 2 gauges, pitot speedo and fuel. When I trace my feeds, the fuel gauge will get fed off IGN power, both will be backlit by the NAV switch feed. My 5 panel switches are HORN/NAV/Courtesy/Bilge 1/Bilge 2, and these items will power from the main battery in the back, as well as a remote 12v outlet.

The decision on the bow battery system is still up in the air. Since I need to also power the trolling motor, 2 Humminbirds, and a VHF, deciding on either a 24v and run the other stuff to the main battery, or use the 2 batteries 12v with an A/B/Both switch and keep all these items on bow power.

My 2000 Star had a MOTORGUIDE 12/24 Brute, and on 12v, got about 4-5 hours of solid power. That battery was also connected via Isolator to the alternator. The decision will be based on financial means. The boat came with an older MINN KOTA 36lb and I am not a fan of it. I prefer the GATOR mount.

I will probably locate one somewhere in a higher thrust and sell the other. Either way, I will add my GUEST 2 bank charger in the bow.

 

[LonLB]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

My project is more a fixup, not a full Resto. The transom was replaced by previous owners boat dealer. Not using any glass, etc. on decking or framing. Any wood framing was clear epoxied and then primed with 2 coats of KILZ Premium white, same as decking. All lid cuts inside jambs are also lined with NASHUA waterproof butyl tape. This stuff works great and protects the laminates. I also used Loctite between each main deck seam to assist in joining them, then taped the seam with this stuff. Between all that, a high grade floor adhesive, quality carpeting, keeping the boat double covered, it should work.

I only have 2 gauges, pitot speedo and fuel. When I trace my feeds, the fuel gauge will get fed off IGN power, both will be backlit by the NAV switch feed. My 5 panel switches are HORN/NAV/Courtesy/Bilge 1/Bilge 2, and these items will power from the main battery in the back, as well as a remote 12v outlet.

The decision on the bow battery system is still up in the air. Since I need to also power the trolling motor, 2 Humminbirds, and a VHF, deciding on either a 24v and run the other stuff to the main battery, or use the 2 batteries 12v with an A/B/Both switch and keep all these items on bow power.

My 2000 Star had a MOTORGUIDE 12/24 Brute, and on 12v, got about 4-5 hours of solid power. That battery was also connected via Isolator to the alternator. The decision will be based on financial means. The boat came with an older MINN KOTA 36lb and I am not a fan of it. I prefer the GATOR mount.

I will probably locate one somewhere in a higher thrust and sell the other. Either way, I will add my GUEST 2 bank charger in the bow.

You don't want to wire in your fish finders and VHF into your trolling motor batteries. I would wire all of that stuff into the cranking battery, and the trolling motors on a separate system.

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

The trolling motor would have its own 12v battery. The accessories would go to the other 12 volt battery in the bow. If I choose to go 24v on the trolling motor, the accessories would wire into the main 12v in the back. Either way, will still add a GUEST charger for the two batteries.

Am aware accessories can NOT be wired to more than 12v(single battery) and trolling motors need their own system. This all depends on finances, i.e need to get back to work full-time versus spot labor.

May even consider a transom electric also. Don't really want to deal with a gas kicker for trolling, just need to have a mph range 1.5-2.5 for walleyes and the main should get the 3-5mph range for muskie/pike, plus the boat came with a trolling plate.

 

[LonLB]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

The trolling motor would have its own 12v battery. The accessories would go to the other 12 volt battery in the bow. If I choose to go 24v on the trolling motor, the accessories would wire into the main 12v in the back. Either way, will still add a GUEST charger for the two batteries.

Am aware accessories can NOT be wired to more than 12v(single battery) and trolling motors need their own system. This all depends on finances, i.e need to get back to work full-time versus spot labor.

May even consider a transom electric also. Don't really want to deal with a gas kicker for trolling, just need to have a mph range 1.5-2.5 for walleyes and the main should get the 3-5mph range for muskie/pike, plus the boat came with a trolling plate.

I just meant you don't want them on the same battery because the trolling motor will cause interference with the Fishfinders and radio.

I had a 8hp 4stroke Merc kicker on my last deep V, and I loved it. Once I get the resto done on a new boat I'm going to go with a gas kicker on it too.
The 4stroke is nice because I could hook it right to the main tank, since the main engine was oil injected.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Cut the 2 piece bow deck and had to make a change on the fly

This looks great so far. I'm watching this with keen interested because I'm going to have to redo mine again this Spring. Make sure you reinforce the HECK out of those areas around your hatch openings. I didn't and mine is now cracked in at least two areas from standing on it.

This is how I have mine laid out. I think I like yours better.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2488.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2498.jpg

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

This looks great so far. I'm watching this with keen interested because I'm going to have to redo mine again this Spring. Make sure you reinforce the HECK out of those areas around your hatch openings. I didn't and mine is now cracked in at least two areas from standing on it.

This is how I have mine laid out. I think I like yours better.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2488.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2498.jpg

EZ, here is the method I am using. The 2 side hatches are very close to the framing, as well as the bow hatch. I removed the side storage plastic trim, then riveted L angle to join the void in the framing. Then I closed those openings with plywood walls, then built the front wall stick-frame, which is secured in the floor, the new sidewalls, and the original metal framing.

The hinges are aluminum and secured with rivets. The jambing is the key. After carpeting, the cutouts are folded underneath 2" to act as a furring strip to maintain lid height with deck height. Then I cut 2" wide plywood pieces for the jambs longer than the cutout lengths and rivet 1/2" aluminum L angle for the exposed jamb.

These are then fastened underside with screws thru the furring carpet and deck creating a frame. If you look at the picture, the 2 vs. 3 piece design adds strength, and the overall width of the area isn't very big anyway so the original and modified framing should make it all solid.

On the bow hatch, there isn't much flooring for a nailer, so I purchased a $5 plastic container that has a decent flange. I measured this hatch so all 4 sides jambs will rest on these edges for support. Hope it works? Example from aft deck......................

 

[fshngho]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Starman I like what you are doing and PLEASE don't think I am trying to put down your work. I personally think you are putting too much wood in your boat and not sufficiently preserved. Grant you, you haved primed and painted, but I have my doubts. Not that it matters cause you have done a ton of thinking and work on this project.I am only saying that I think you would be better off with aluminum braces and such and they are so easliy available that I wish a man of your ambition would take advantage of it. Am I impressed? YES. Do I want to see you progress? YES. Just make a few calls to local glass shops to see if they have aluminum metal " cut offs" that you can use. I have been trying in vain to tell everyone about this but you have the drive, so go for it. This is nothing against your work. It is impressive. I am just trying to help.

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Understand with the concerns of wood usage. I agree plastic and metal would be better over long periods and exposure to elements.

This 30 year old boat apparently did OK for the previous 2 owners all those years. For my purposes, looking for usage, fishability, and water skiing.

The main deck was coated with 2 coats of KILZ premium primer. Each edge was encased in NASHUA waterproof butyl tape. This stuff hangs on. Each seam was also encased, then each floor seam was filled with LOCTITE adhesive, then each seam and the sidewalls were taped over with the same butyl tape.

I used premium adhesive and quality carpet, and instead of tucking it under the original sidewall flanges, I carpeted over them, then I installed trim over that, like a drip edge method. During rain, the water should not get down the sidewalls and into the laminations.

Swimmers and skiers would enter the boat on the aft deck. That wood was coated with my leftover Gluvit, then primed 2 times with KILZ, then adhesive, then carpet. The underlying framing was done the same. The bow deck is all the original metal framing, added aluminum L angle, and only a small amount of wood for the front wall, treated like stated above.

As I mentioned, the boat is now garaged for the winter. For outdoor storage, double covered. Since the topside has all the snaps installed, finances will dictate a wanted/needed bow and cockpit cover for extensive in water docking possibilities, i.e vacations.

 

[fshngho]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Well Brother it would seem you have all the bases covered and all I can say is great work. Like I had said, you have thought this through and and all I wanted to do was to bring up the "what if's". I want to follow your lead but there are a few things I would need to change, just like everyone on this forum. I would like to think thats what makes this forum speicel/ Good Luck & God Bless.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

I really like the idea of rivets for the hinges.

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

I am 100% sure some of the things I am doing to this tinny should be done different/better.

The boat I had to sell for financial reasons was a 2000 Star. This boat was a leaker, and it introduced me into the world of rivets and Gluvit, and I even chatted with a Starcraft engineer a few times.

I will say that I examined the rivets from outside, and inside, then flooded the hull before putting the new floor in. Even though she was dry, I still used the Gluvit on this one also.

On the one I sold, was able to make her dry as a bone, even with Erie waves flexing and pounding her at times.

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Hinges, jambs, carpet on the bow deck. I also have some great hard vinyl roll I picked up years ago used for construction. Kind of like a flexible laminate. Each plywood lid is covered in it for moisture protection and cosmetics.

You can see it in the picture above previous post.

 

[Starman8]

Re: 79 SS18 Project

Re: 79 SS18 Project

I really like the idea of rivets for the hinges.

Since my lid material is 1/2" plywood, the 3/16" and 3/4" fill aluminum rivets seem to hold well. The difference in this assembly as compared to decking added two more steps.

On decking as you know, the rivet cap sets on plywood and the bump held by the aluminum stringer, rib, etc. On the lids, it is reverse, cap on aluminum hinge flange and bump on plywood. Considering wood can expand/contract, I put a dab of Loctite adhesive on each bump after assembly just for measure.

In addition, each flange has a couple 1/2" screws into the lid for additional fastening.