8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

smokeonthewater

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Hey there prop guru's I tried searching and found a little info but still have some questions..... I am still building my wellcraft monte carlo and am doing it on a rowboat budget. The drives and engines came from another 28' cruiser and had 14.5x17 michigan wheel 3 blade props...... I have a quicksilver 15x17 and thought about picking up another if I found a great deal on one........
I also ran my boat on mercury's online prop selector and it suggested several props roughly the same as what I have
I apologize for the vague statistics but but am wondering why 14.5" props on a heavy boat that has drives which can swing 16" props
I am thinking that a 4 blade prop would be ideal and it seems to me that a larger diameter would have less slip... especially at lower speeds
 

45Auto

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

I have a 1987 30' Searay with twin 260's, dry weight 9500 lb. It has 19" pitch High Five props on it. The boat accelerates great but can be over-revved (it'll go to about 5200 RPM) with these props. I'll probably put a set of 21" pitch props on it this spring.

If you're really concerned with your budget as you say, I would wait and test your boat with the props you have before spending money on props you may not need. I wouldn't be surprised if you end up needing higher pitched props for your boat.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

forgot to mention it does have the 1.5 ratio drives and has bottom paint but will be trailered...... I plan to run it before buying anything but I figure learn now buy later..... I am mostly looking for theoretical info..... I understand that a smaller diameter prop can spin up faster and allow the engine to get into an rpm that allows more power for holeshot but it seems to me that with 4 strokes with 520 hp on tap power coupling would be of a higher concern.... from what I have read I'll be lucky to get much over 1 mpg so every little bit helps.... my single screw carver really came alive with a switch from 15" to 16" diameter

wow 19's on that boat really surprises me.. are you running 1.5 ahphas or something with lower gears? also what diameter are you running? what speed are you getting at 5200?
 

45Auto

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

The boat has 1.5 Alpha's on it (replacing the left one now, it was full of water ....), had the High Fives on it when I bought it. I believe they're 13.25" diameter. It doesn't have a speedometer on it from the factory (I thought that was weird) but is supposed to do 43 MPH. Seat of the pants feels to be right around 40 MPH (I'm afraid to run it much, the drive that was full of water isn't exactly smooth!). I keep forgetting to take the GPS from my other boat on it when we take it out. You're in the right range for your mileage, mine gets right at 1 MPG.

I have a stock Mercury 21" aluminum prop sitting here (left over spare from a boat I sold), I'm going to pick up a matching one cheap off Ebay or Craigslist for this spring.

Mine also has bottom paint, but became a trailer boat when I bought it. A Louisiana Recreational Wide Load permit is $10/month, compared to $300/month for a slip.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

wow you're looking at 30-35% prop slip..... I'd say you're worse off than me and in the same boat so to speak I think we both need larger diameter props but you more so....
 

45Auto

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

Around 40 MPH and 1 MPG seems to be the best anyone's ever seen on similar sized and powered boats. I'm not worried about messing with it as long as mine is in that range. I don't think there's much room for improvement no matter how much money anyone's willing to waste on it!
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

hey didn't mean to step on any toes...... you said you were considering 21 pitch to eliminate over reving..... I was thinking that money would be better spent on larger diameter..... 19 pitch puts you theoretic speed at 62 mph.... 21 at 69..... sounds like you are over reving because you are blowing holes in the water.... I was just thinking that more pitch would hurt you not help but if you've decided not to fix it then my idea has no value for ya.....


on to my issue ..... anyone have any more insight into the bigger wheel issue?
 

Bondo

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

anyone have any more insight into the bigger wheel issue?

Ayuh,.... I think you're putting Way too much weight into your quest for Diameter....
Especially, considering that you really have little or No choice in the matter...
Basically,...
Diameter is a function of Blade Design....
The Engineer who designs the prop, determines the diameter....
Generally speaking, the larger the pitch, the smaller the diameter,...
Conversely, the smaller the pitch, the larger the diameter....
 

45Auto

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

Sorry, didn't mean to upset you if you think you need bigger diameter props.

The Club Sea Ray website has a whole forum devoted to "Classic Sea Rays" like mine. People on there have tried every combination of prop diameter and pitch made by man on these boats and the 40 MPH range at 1 MPG is as good as it gets. Doesn't make sense to me to repeat every one else's experience and expect different results on my boat. Not saying that bigger diameter isn't the magic you're looking for, but I would be surprised if the 1/2" difference in diameter you were originally talking about is even measurable, much less noticable. It's probably within the machining tolerance on the props! There's probably a reason the online prop selectors tend to give you the props that you already have, that's what works on that type of boat.

Prop slip is a very misunderstood property of propellors. It has nothing to do with efficiency. It's not a bad thing, it's just a measure of the angle of attack of the blades. Higher angle of attack means a higher slip number. The more thrust you require from your propellor, the higher the slip number (angle of attack) will be. This is from the Mercury Racing Propellor Website:

http://www.mercuryracing.com/propellers/propslipcalculator.php

Slip is the most misunderstood of all propeller terms, probably because it sounds like something undesirable. Slip is not a measure of propeller efficiency. Rather, slip is the difference between actual and theoretical travel resulting from a necessary propeller blade angle of attack. If the blade had no angle of attack, there would be no slip; but, of course, there would be no positive and negative pressure created on the blades and, therefore, there would be no thrust.

This is from "Choosing the best marine propellor":

http://www.solarnavigator.net/propellers.htm

Bigger diameter is like adding bigger tires to your car: more traction or more appropriately, less slip. Larger diameters put more load on your motor because they move more water though so don't over do it. A blade moving through water does experience drag . The less blade there is (less diameter), the less the drag will be. Provided your motor and prop produce enough thrust, when you decrease your prop diameter your speed will increase a bit because there is less drag.

Basically, you're trying to trade off slip for drag. Although a bigger diameter prop may have less slip, it will correspondingly have more drag which will cause it to be less efficient, even though the slip number is lower.

Slip is unfortunately used as a parameter by lots of boating people who don't understand why airplanes fly or how propellors work. The Navier-Stokes equations describe the motion of fluid substances (props in water and air). There's a basic description of them at Wikipedia, but if you've never had math classes in calculus and differential equations they won't make much sense:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navier–Stokes_equations
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

no you didn't upset me at all.... I thought maybe I had upset you... any how
I wasn't so much looking to eliminate all slip but rather to see if anyone had tried the larger diameter props or if anyone could tell me why a couple 16" props would be a bad idea.... the 15" prop I already was but one option.... I guess I neglected to mention that my 14.5's are in less than great condition.... My local prop shop guy tells me that on a big heavy boat "you gotta run the largest diameter you can fit" he goes on to explain that the biggest limiting factor is tip speed and erosion of the blades caused by it.... I look online and can find no info to support or dispute his statements.... My Carver came from the factory with a 15x17 and a 260 and was tested in 1980 to run just over 40 and close to 2 mpg..... I had swapped in an 898 (200 hp 305) and switched to edelbrock performer intake and marine quadrajet and I estimated that it might make 230 hp.... with the 15x17 I was over propped so I borrowed a 15x15 and while top end was ok midrange was at a higher rpm than I liked and holeshot was terrible..... rpm's would come up and it would just mush along for quite a while.... I talked to the prop guy and he sold me a 16x14 and said it would be a night and day difference.... He was right.... top end remained the same but midrange was improved and holeshot was amazing (for a 6000 lb low power boat).... I never figured mpg......

While I am interested in economy I am also interested in performance and mostly in learning the "why" involved here..... I've never taken calculous and don't plan on it but was accused of cheating regularly for not needing to write down my figures in algebra and geometry..... now that was nearly 20 years ago and I remember VERY little of it but I do have a better than average ability to comprehend physics although I never know the mathmatical formulas and often not the terms involved

I promise I'm not one of those people who asks a question and doesn't want to hear the answer..... I'm just also looking for the reasons for the answer.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

btw the solar navigator page had good info.... I had seen most of that but scattered on different sites..... I'm looking for the practical data.... maybe it just isn't out there..... x size boat x size engines x diameter props....
When I run the data on merc's prop selector I can change the ratio on the ahpha drive and the pitch of the prop changes but diameter stays constant
Interestingly if I run the same data on my boat in the prop calculator but switch to a bravo drive I get a much larger prop diameter when I select a lower ratio...... That suggests to me that there has been much more testing done with the bravo drives in recent times and that maybe the ahpha data may just be status quo.
or 14.5 may very well be the best trade off.....
Hard to imagine why I can't sleep at night huh? lol

How would one find the thread you mention on sea ray props
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

well 45.... those are some mighty pricey props you've got there.. Been reading ALOT and it seems that having 5 blades allows for a smaller diameter I also found the 25-35% prop slip is common on big cruisers so you aren't as far out as I thought.... I'd had 15-20% in mind ..... So far from my research increasing diameter is VERY effective at improving holeshot and likely to take a couple mph off the top end. I haven't found much about midrange or cruising efficiency yet.... seems that increasing blade count has a similar effect except less pronounced.... I'm still confused that merc recomends 17" pitch for my boat and you are over reving with 19" pitch on a bigger heavier boat with the same power.... Are your engines built up any?
 

45Auto

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

Hi Kevin,

My engines are stock 260's, the port motor was replaced in 2003 (second owner picked up a plastic bag around the intake and fried the motor) with a stock Mercruiser 260 rebuild and has about 200 hours on it now, the starboard motor is the stock original with 600 hours. I'm the third owner, it had the 19" High Five props on it when the second owner bought it and he had no idea what was originally on it.

I very seldom push it over about 25 MPH (can't afford the gas!!), so the High Fives could possibly be the most efficient prop for it at that speed. I'll probably pick up a fuel flow guage this spring so I can optimize my cruise speed. There's usually a bunch of stock aluminum Merc props floating around on Craigs List or Ebay for $50 or so, and since I already have one 21" pitch stock prop I just figured I would pick up another one when I run across one cheap and try them. I don't really care about top speed, but it would be nice to get it to cruise as efficiently as possible!

Wish I could help you more on the diameter issue, I don't know enough about it to tell you specifically why they don't use the biggest props that would fit the drive. It could be that if you are using a displacement hull or running at less than planing speeds the bigger diameter would help, but at planing speeds the velocity and drag gets high enough to make the smaller diameter more efficient.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

Ok I am closing in on this gradually..... It looks like a larger diameter might indeed be more efficient at lower speeds on a heavier boat but that diameter is figured on horsepower and shaft speed... I did find some good info on a few pages but they are all copyrighted so I won't paste here.... I have yet to discover whether there would be any gain in our applications but at least I'm learning
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

If your going to play with diameter's just make sure that the prop fits flush to the leg...You always want the prop to be flush with the drive any irregularity's will cause a disturbance in the water flow and slip can occur..
 

hwsiii

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

Smoke, on almost any boat I recommend that anytime prop slip is over 15% you need to change props to reduce prop slip. The only time this may not be true is when you have a very heavy boat that is very underpowered. But your boat does not have this problem as you are only pushing about 18 # of weight for each HP you have, assuming the total boat weight is about 9,000 # fueled up with average equipment and with 4 people on board. I show the base weight of your boat to be about 7,200 #, if I am wrong please correct me.
My local prop shop guy tells me that on a big heavy boat "you gotta run the largest diameter you can fit" he goes on to explain that the biggest limiting factor is tip speed and erosion of the blades caused by it.
In my opinion, you should be talking about blade surface area instead of the diameter, more blade surface area always transfers more thrust from a prop, if two different props have the same diameter, blade geometry and pitch. If you have too much blade surface area the motor may not have enough HP to reach its maximum upper recommended RPM even though you may have two props that have the exact same pitch and blade geometry, the other one could have too little blade surface area and thus actually turn too high RPM, assuming both props have the exact same blade geometry and pitch, except for blade surface area. But in every case you are looking for the prop that produces as close to the amount of thrust required and very little more, or you increase the drag and are not able to reach the upper recommended RPM for your motor. When you do find a prop that is producing just the right amount of thrust needed with the commensurate amount of pitch, blade geometry and blade surface area prop slip will be as low as possible.

Smoke you mentioned
I am mostly looking for theoretical info.....
So, lets go through some of the theory on props.

1. Prop Slip and Effective prop pitch is not the same as Prop Efficiency as 45Auto says. But in my opinion it is more important than any manufacturers Prop Efficiency rating, because NO commerial manufacturers of props for outboards, inboards or inboard/outboards list the efficency rating for their props, so the term Prop Efficiency has NO meaning whatsoever for over 85% of ALL boats in the world. What we are actually looking for in a prop is the Highest EFFECTIVE Prop Pitch that still allows our motors to reach the upper recommended manufacturers RPM, this will produce the highest speeds and the best fuel economy in almost all boats. Prop Slip and Effective prop pitch are directly proportional to the Prop Performance of any prop on any particular boat and motor combination. If you can reach somewhere between 6% to 11% prop slip with as high an effective prop pitch as you can use you will have an excellent prop for most boats.

EFFETIVE PROP PITCH is the Actual distance a prop travels in one revolution while the stated Prop Pitch is the Theoretical distane a prop should travel in one revolution, so you can see that Prop Slip and Effective Prop Pitch are directly proportional to each other.


Prop Efficiency

PropEffieny.jpg


2. So that brings us to Prop Slip, and as 45Auto states
Rather, slip is the difference between actual and theoretical travel
of a prop.

Prop Slip and the commensurate Effetive Prop Pitch

PropSlipandEffetivePropPith2.jpg


If you look at the above computations under Prop Slip and Effective Prop Pitch you can see that as we change props and the Prop slip goes down the Effective prop pitch goes up. Under this scenario these props produce these results.

1 Real Speed. The Aluminum 3 blade aluminum prop has very little blade surface area and minimal blade geometry and only has a 13.4" effective pitch with 29% prop slip.

2. While the 4 blade aluminum prop has minimal blade geometry as well but it has more blade surface area, and the 4th blade loses about 200 RPM, and thus it increases the effective prop pitch to 16.6" and the prop slip is only 13%.

3. Whereas the SS prop has much thinner blades, because it is SS and is much stronger and thus can be cast thinner, as well as the prop has much more blade geometry designed into it for better prop slip control, and thus has an effective prop pitch of 17.3" and a prop slip of 9%.

The above scenario is just an example of how blade surface area affects Effective prop pitch and thus the speed and fuel economy of a boat. I showed the SS prop as the best for the simple reason that in the real world that is normally the case, because SS props are normally faster, although if the boat is only capable of speeds in the 45 to 50 MPH range some Aluminum 4 blade props can be an excellent and economical alternative with very little loss of speed, usually about 1 to 3 MPH, and much cheaper.


H
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

tail gunner,
I'm not sure what you mean
Hwsiii,
I'm afraid my boat is likely a bit heavier than either of us estimated... the best I can find is that 7200 is the base weight with one engine so 8400 with two plus another 1000 for a full tank of fuel and 500 for the genny extra batts and various accessories another 500 for fresh water throw in some people gear and supplies and if these numbers are correct I will likely top 11,000. I hope I'm over estimating

I'm starting to think that increasing diameter along with other means of increasing blade surface I end up reducing slip in the lower speeds substantially but in doing so must reduce pitch to a point that I actually would lose a lot of top speed

It is starting to look like I need lots of low speed slip to get top end speed


do the recomendations from mercury sound right to you?

Propeller Recommendation(s)

Propeller Material Blades Diameter Pitch Rotation Part #

Aluminum 4 14.500 18.0 RH 48-834852A45
Aluminum 4 14.500 18.0 LH 48-834853A45

Stainless Steel 4 14.625 17.0 RH 48-857024A46
Stainless Steel 4 14.625 17.0 LH 48-857025A46

Stainless Steel 4 14.500 17.0 RH 48-825898A46
Stainless Steel 4 14.500 17.0 LH 48-825899A46

Stainless Steel 3 14.500 17.0 RH 48-16314A46
Stainless Steel 3 14.500 17.0 LH 48-16315A46

If the boat reaches 40 mph these would be just over 20% slip compared to the 30%+ experienced by 45auto
I have read that 25-35% is common on cruisers but I am thinking my boat may be in the sleeker end of the cruiser group being twin engine and a sportier hull than some
What do you think?
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

EUREKA!.... It just hit me.... I was thinking about the stuff I read and I remembered an article about inboard props ... It stated that you need a clearance of 1/7 the diameter of the prop between the blades and hull..... That hadn't registered with me at first..... but I believe it's the drag created by water spilling off the blade tips and hitting the anti cav plate that causes problems with a 15" plus prop spinning at 3300 rpm on an alpha drive that causes problems.... with a 16" prop the clearance is close to 1/4"and 2 1/4 would be needed to be efficient


So now that would explain why I can manipulate numbers to get a bigger prop on an bravo but can't get bigger than 14.625 on an alpha. The bravo has MUCH more clearance.

It looks like the only inexpensive solution would me a 4 blade aluminum.... I bet a hi five in a 14.5x17 would also be excellent but out of my price range
 

hwsiii

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

Kevin, in my opinion there are much cheaper 4 blade aluminum props that will work very well for your boat, I just need a little time to go back through your posts and help point you in the right direction. These props costs about $ 120 each.
I am going to take some time tonight and try to explain things a little better. It will probably take me about an hour to do this.


H
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 8000 lb cruiser twin merc 260's

Thanks, I look forward to your thoughts on this.... btw my props will both be right hand rotation for now but I am always on the lookout for a counter rotating lower unit..... I doubt that will make any difference on prop selection except for needing to buy another when and if I change to counter rotation
 
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