82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

[redneck joe]

so... it will begin this spring would like to be back on the water in a few weeks. I can take the time off but want to have most of the research, supplies and such in place to complete quickly once it becomes my full time job to complete.

Have a leak i cannot identify from the outside and it is getting worse - https://forums.iboats.com/threads/leaking-riveted-starcraft-82-mr180.771335/

Small soft spot in the floor getting worse because i have a leak. Endless loop.

I will be doing a floor replace and of course a leak fix once identified. added flotation, adding fuel tank, moving battery forward and, a few other things.

So to get the ball rolling I would appreciate some input:
Pour foam or pink board
If pour foam, epoxy wood or thin aluminum
Either floor choice, cover with nautelex or some sort of rubberized/sanded coating
Any thoughts on what you would/wish you would have done with the floor out


This will be my last boat unless i win the lottery and this will be the last time i go all in on this kind of work so it needs to last about 20 years until i die.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Pour fom. The extruded poly won't give any structural support because it isn't bonded to anything and won't properly fill the cavity.

Epoxy wood. It needs to be done on both sides and all edges anyway.

Other things depend on how your boat is set up. Like if your gas tank sits in the center, and the fuel lines are under the floor, now would be a good time to inspect and replace.

Carpet is a bit more forgiving on install than vinyl flooring, and is easier to hide mistakes, but either way works. Up to your style and budget.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

For the leak, really the only way to find it is to fill it with water and look for leaks.

 

[redneck joe]

Thanks Mike, on the leak yeah tried that and nothing comes out. Check the link above to see what I've tried so out comes the floor. It's going to need it before I'm dead anyway so as fast as mu body is taking a s..t on me might as well do it.

 

[redneck joe]

Can anyone point me to a good thread on epoxy floor? I'm leaning to a textured painted floor that I can snap in carpet.

 

[jbcurt00]

WOGs old timers mix is often used on decks/floors, but under carpet, I'd use epoxy on the deck/floor.

Go to the starcraft forum and use the search function then use the filter in the top right of the search window to select search in this forum.

Or google: iboats forum starcraft epoxy deck then substitute floor for deck and search again

I don't remember carpet or Nautilus but i think @Watermann used Old Timers...

@BWR1953 is banging around in here somewhere too. As are @Sharpie223 and @DWbaseball 2024 SOTY winners

 

[BWR1953]

@BWR1953 is banging around in here somewhere too.

Yessir, on my Kingfisher, I used OTF to seal the plywood, but I used gray home porch paint for the deck once the OTF was dry. I mixed in some traction sand.

It works very well and is tough and durable. If it gets scuffed, it's very easy to apply a little more paint to any damaged areas or even the entire deck. I could repaint the whole KF deck in about 15 minutes. It's affordable too.

Nobody goes barefoot on my boat(s) and the porch paint is good stuff.

 

[cyclops222]

Slick wet floors.
911 we need help.

Sand and paint are best for decks and bare feet.

 

[redneck joe]

Yessir, on my Kingfisher, I used OTF to seal the plywood, but I used gray home porch paint for the deck once the OTF was dry. I mixed in some traction sand.

It works very well and is tough and durable. If it gets scuffed, it's very easy to apply a little more paint to any damaged areas or even the entire deck. I could repaint the whole KF deck in about 15 minutes. It's affordable too.

Nobody goes barefoot on my boat(s) and the porch paint is good stuff.

Didn't you stand the pink board on end and cut to fit?

 

[BWR1953]

Didn't you stand the pink board on end and cut to fit?

Yes. Yes I did.

 

[jbcurt00]

And wrapped it in fuel proof bags

 

[redneck joe]

Freak....

 

[DWbaseball]

I recommend using the Old Timers Formula, then oil based primer and Rust-Oleum paint from a can. For me this came out much more durable than OTF and Spar.

I think a painted floor with some sand in the mix would be good and allow for easy touch ups if needed. Especially if you plan to snap in carpet for the cruising days.

Under the floor I decided to go with the foam boards because it should allow everything to drain much better under there than the poured in foam would. At least that was my theory.

 

[BWR1953]

Freak....

 

[MNhunter1]

I'd personally stay away from the pour in foam and use the foam sheets. If yours is leaking, and has water trapped in the hull, you're likely to find corrosion and possibly even pin holes through the hull where you remove the original saturated foam. Look for spots like the picture attached on the bottom of your hull.

Regarding the decking - 1/2" ACX or BCX exterior grade ply with multiple coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane and topped dressed with Nautolex vinyl would be my recommendation.

Your MR should have a tray running under the deck and riveted to the stringer for you controls/cables/wiring. I'd suggest new rivets for the stringers as you'll probably find them to be quite loose. I ran my live well plumbing under the foam and tray.

 

[redneck joe]

Pretty sure I don't have foam in there now, just in gunnels and stern. I was thinking about future water trapped.

 

[MNhunter1]

They all have foam, just a matter of what kind of foam is in your '82. My '84 had poured foam in the hull and the white Styrofoam board under the gunnels and behind the panels. I'd assume your '82 would be somewhat similar.

 

[cyclops222]

Only ...Closed Cell foam ...in any boat work.

 

[Sharpie223]

I saw my name invoked so thought I'd chime in. I used 1/2 cdx with thinned BLO, then spar and latex over the spar. The topside was also covered with glued and painted on canvas which I trust to waterproof the top. That was all under a different budget. If I were to make the floors today, I'd feel comfortable with the cdx, but would seal with the thinnest epoxy (without use of solvent) I could find. I'd probably still cover the top with canvas and paint. It's a known way to protect the wood underneath. My real concern with the BLO is if mildew will grow on it on the underside, the bilge can never be assumed to be truly dry. Whatever you use, expect it to get hot in the sun, except maybe carpet.

As for foam, I used the white expanded polystyrene. It might absorb more quickly than extruded, but is also known to dry quicker. My plan is at some point to direct a blower fan under the bow, to blow air through and out the back, and just plug it in when parked. This should keep things relatively dry.

 

[redneck joe]

So on the old timers formula, I see both mineral spirits and paint thinner. Is one preferred over the other?