82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

redneck joe

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How stupid would it be......

In removing the helm there is lots going on with wires up there where they jump around between each other and I hate wiring. Thinking of just going back to where they come out of the floor and cut the main inputs. When reassembling butt joint together with dielectric, liquid tape and a heat shrink. That I know I can do.
 

MikeSchinlaub

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How stupid would it be......

In removing the helm there is lots going on with wires up there where they jump around between each other and I hate wiring. Thinking of just going back to where they come out of the floor and cut the main inputs. When reassembling butt joint together with dielectric, liquid tape and a heat shrink. That I know I can do.
Lots of work for no gain. Also, dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor. It's meant to seal water out, and keep stuff like spark plug boots from bonding to the ceramic.
 

redneck joe

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Guess I got lucky on the thousand or so that I've done over the years but moot point because I will cut a few. The ignition and the tnt are soldered on so not messing with those. I have figured out the least amount of cuts needed and it won't be the big cluster. Should take less than two hours to hook back up
 

MNhunter1

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Terminal blocks, bus bars, and fuse blocks are your friends when it comes to organized wiring.
 

MikeSchinlaub

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Guess I got lucky on the thousand or so that I've done over the years but moot point because I will cut a few. The ignition and the tnt are soldered on so not messing with those. I have figured out the least amount of cuts needed and it won't be the big cluster. Should take less than two hours to hook back up
Tnt you say?
1000007914.jpg
 

redneck joe

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Hopefully not that kind....

Total of seven wires cut, three that pigtail off the ignition with one going up to the Compass that runs over to the speedometer so assuming just for lighting the guages. All easily identified by color.

Bad news is one of the two large clusters of wire for the ignition does not go thru the hole in the shelf under the helm so gotta cut a slot to pull it out.

Otherwise going ok, I'll tell a story about the steering cabe I a bit.

New beer, back to work.
 

redneck joe

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Welp, about to start tearing into the wood, couple questions.

The material under the rod holders at the gunnel were screwed to the floor but riveted thru the side. I really, really do not want to drill all those out and have either buck new ones in or use sex bolts with 5200. Think I'll be able to slightly bend up and slide in front to back?

Because of the above if I don't remove completely I wont be able to just pop the wood up but can cut out in peices so drill this blind rivets and shim under the wood to saw out and avoid the boats ribs?
 

MikeSchinlaub

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Welp, about to start tearing into the wood, couple questions.

The material under the rod holders at the gunnel were screwed to the floor but riveted thru the side. I really, really do not want to drill all those out and have either buck new ones in or use sex bolts with 5200. Think I'll be able to slightly bend up and slide in front to back?

Because of the above if I don't remove completely I wont be able to just pop the wood up but can cut out in peices so drill this blind rivets and shim under the wood to saw out and avoid the boats ribs?
Pics please.
 

redneck joe

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Yeah I'm not following either, need a visual. Especially curious about them "sex bolts". :unsure:
Aka sleeve bolts. Grampa taught me about them back in the 70s,and all things male female and how that worked in real life. He took his grampa role seriously and 'learned me up'
 
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redneck joe

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ok sorry for the delay, wife out of town and i never like it when shes gone so i go into hermite mode.


Here is the pic - see how the section is screwed to the floor but riveted thru the gunnel. I'm hoping to just be able to lift of the floor section to slide in the new wood?


1741675294688.pngtion attaches tot he floor with screws but is
 

MikeSchinlaub

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Oh man, that one is going to suck.

You should be able to slide the floor pieces out, because all of the metal was assembled and painted before everyrhing else was installed.

The worst part is you'll have to slide everything under those boxes. It's going to make that job really tedious.

You know, seeing it like this, I think it would look really cool if you just sealed all the wood with the OTF and left it exposed. I think it would go well with the cream paint. Better than that old blue vinyl anyway. Not sure how slick it might get though.
 

Watermann

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I see, well at least the rib end rivets appear to be through that hull brace. The bad news is when you drill them out the head will pop off instantly but SC used steel mandrels and they may not drill out clear to the rib. That would leave the body of the rivet still attached to the rib and inside the decking so no sliding . The good news again is that is .065 AL and it's very easily bent and returned. Good luck!
 

redneck joe

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Waterman, would I not be able to punch them thru once the head is off?
 
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MikeSchinlaub

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For the pop rivets, just get a tiny pin punch or a tapered punch and knock the mandrels back before you drill the heads. Than once the heads are drilled off, you can punch or drill the body out.
 

redneck joe

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10-4. Headed to Seattle for a few days to see dad but got my customers shower done today and nothing big booked for now so I'll update as I begin.
 

MNhunter1

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I went down this same road with my MR180, only way to do it right is to completely remove the side supports and rear panels. The front deck panels also had solids through the hull. I took the opportunity to purchase me a new rivet gun for setting the solids :) You'll also likely find some floatation foam behind those panels, which may or may not be in need of some cleanup and replacement.
InkedIMG_9775_LI.jpgIMG_4320.jpgIMG_4321.jpg
 
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