93 Crownline 196 deck and more

[Smokey00]

The boat looks great! I'm new to the forum, I have a 93 196 Crownline. My stringes and transom are so rotten I could not get measurements off them. Do you have drawings, specs, dimensions for the stringes and transom or know where I can get the information? Thank you.

 

[Smokey00]

The boat looks great! I'm new to the forum, I have a 93 196 Crownline. My stringes and transom are so rotten I could not get measurements off them. Do you have drawings, specs, dimensions for the stringes and transom or know where I can get the information? Thank you.

 

[atjohnson]

I have some rough measurements that I took and used as guidelines. I won't vouch for them being 100% accurate as I found lots of variation, but I would be more than happy to share them with you. I actually scanned them to send to another member but have lost his contact information since that point. Send me a PM and I would be more than happy to forward this information.

 

[atjohnson]

Ok guys I have a quick question. Is there any opposition to using PL to put the deck down instead of 3m 5200. I haven't had any luck finding 5200 and just happen to have some PL left over. I have read good and bad, but haven't been able to find substantial evidence to it being a completely bad idea. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[atjohnson]

Well I'm at the slow part and pictures aren't the best thing to show progress, but it has been a while so I figured what the heck. I'm trying to get all of the small things ready for the deck install, so I finally got a little gel coat down this afternoon. I'm also working on getting the bottom layer of CSM on all of my decking. I'm not quite half way so I plan to finish that tomorrow and hopefully be walking on a flat surface again by the end of the weekend. I'll try to get one more update at the end of the weekend, hopefully with the deck in and ready for the final layers of CSM.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Did you make up your mind on using the PL premium? I think it will be fine, biggest issues seem to be off-gassing, impossible to make smooth fillets and time to cure. Upside is it's a polyurethane glue, sticks to fiberglass and is water proof (but not recommended for constant submersion). May be a good idea to scuff up both mating surfaces to help with adhesion. I read a post where they put the glue on the top of the stringers, put the board down, pulled it back up and then drilled through the glue from the back side so that the screws would hit the cleats. Think I'll try that. The gelcoat looks nice although putting it in the fuel tank bay could be considered overkill? I think I will gelcoat the ski locker and the deck from the front of the rear seat back. No one ever sees this area except me when I work back there. Think it will dry out better without the carpet. I'm trying to eliminate any screws through the deck that aren't covered with fiberglass. My forward seats bolt into a metal plate, the trim pump screws into the deck and the support structure for the sun deck is screwed into the deck. For the front seats I think I'll get rid of the under deck steel plates and glass a piece of ply onto the deck then use wood screws with 5200 to secure and not penetrate the deck. Same for the trim pump. For the lower support structure of the sun deck I may just drill the hole oversized and fill with PB and then drill/screw into solid glass. I've also thought about modifying it and glassing in a piece to the deck and then screwing into that. Something to think about. My boarding ladder has bolts through the hull below the waterline and the 4200 failed at some point in the last 20 years which ended up destroying the plywood support for the ladder. Trying to think of the safe way to fix this. So far, all I've come up with is drilling it out larger, filling with PB, drilling the holes and using 4200 on the bolts. Every 5-7 years I'd remove the ladder and re-bed with new 4200 before replacing the bolts. Have any opinions on these ideas? Hey, there were supposed to be separate paragraphs but it all runs together in preview. Haven't found a way around that yet.

 

[atjohnson]

Rick, I did use the PL to seat the deck. This will be the only place thought. My swim ladder is also like yours and sealing the holes is something that I have also given some thought to but I have not come up with a definite solution. For the trim pump and seat pedestals, I made risers like many guys here have done. I used excess 5/8" ply (2 layers) for the trim pump and battery trays and then used 3/4" for the seat risers. I can snap some pictures of mine if you haven't seen any on the other threads.
I worked until almost midnight Saturday night getting my nailers in and finishing up the small things for the deck install.

I actually decided to add four more nailers today after looking at everything today. I probably could have gotten by without them but better safe than sorry.
Today really made me feel like I was getting somewhere, so yes the deck is in.

The 2x4s at the joints are there because of a bows on the ends of the decking. The plan is to PB the edges and then break them loose so the corners will be flush. The plan is to finish the PBing this week in the afternoon and get ready for foam for the weekend. I will be cutting it close on resin. I'm thinking I will possible need 1 or 2 gallons before its all said and done. The plan is to buy it at a local marina because I cannot justify paying the shipping surcharge for a small amount.

 

[Mikeopsycho]

~~Today really made me feel like I was getting somewhere, so yes the deck is in.

I bet getting the deck in was a great feeling of satisfaction! Looks good!

Mike

 

[Rickmerrill]

Andrew, A few questions. Sorry for the run on sentences, carriage returns don't seem to be recognized from my ipad. When you installed the new engine supports did you just lift them a little off the hull and pack PB in the gap so it filled completely? I'm asking because the gap on the inside longitudinal edges is pretty big. Any problems getting the PB all the way in there between the supports and hull? The gelcoat in the ski locker and gas tank bay looks very nice. Did you use the white gelcoat and then tint it a little, maybe with some of the teal? It looks like it's grey in the pictures and about the color I'm shooting for. Did you add any wax to the last coat of gelcoat so it would harden? On the gas tank I am afraid to touch the screws that pierce the plastic tank because it might leak but if my stringers aren't just right I may have to to make adjustments. It looks like your tank support brackets were extended all the way out during the demolition phase and they are the same way installed. Did you have to touch the screws? Any idea how they seal?

 

[atjohnson]

Rick, yes, I filled the gap under the mounts with PB. I set them in place and used a piece of 1x1 to hold them down and used the freezer bag trick to completely fill the cavity. For some reason I did not wax the gel coat so after thinking it over again I plan to do a light coat after I finish the bilge and rear storage and mix in the wax additive. Just a small goof up on my part but not a big deal. The screws on the gas tank mounts is something I haven't thought much about. It has crossed my mind but honestly I have not moved them either. After you mention it, I don't really want to pull one to see how they were sealed before.

On a positive note, I managed to get the deck filleted with PB today. The plan is to tab in on Friday and start foaming Saturday. I have approximately 1 gallon of resin left, so I will have to purchase one or two gallons locally. I know it will be expensive but inevitable. Hopefully by the end of the weekend, I can be almost ready for carpet.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Thanks for the info on the mounts and the screws into the tank - I wondered but I don't want to mess with them.

Did you add any tint to the gelcoat?

Good luck with the foaming!

 

[atjohnson]

I knew I left something out last night. Yes, I tinted the gel coat gray. That was actually the original color in my boat. They white was just way too bright for me, so I was happy with the decision after I got it in.
I am also going to experiment with tinting the gel coat to fix some chips in the hull. I got lucky and the off white/ halyard from US Composites was a great match for the moonstone but not so much for the teal. I ordered some darker blues to tint their shade of teal but have not attempted it yet.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhhmmm, to get teal, try this. 1 oz of White Gel 4 drops of med Blue Tint and 1 drop of Yellow tint. Mix well. You should get close to a Teal Color.

 

[atjohnson]

WOG, this is the color that I have.

I purchased a royal blue and a midnight blue to play around with to try and shade it correctly. I may have approached this the wrong way, but if so I will get the yellow and try what you have suggested.

 

[Woodonglass]

That's more of what I'd Call a "Sky Blue" like I painted my "Blue Flamingo". I LOVE that color!!! Teal has more or a Greenish tint to it, thus the yellow (yellow and blue = Green) If you like that color...go with it. I think it's "PURRRRRRRRRRDY!!!:bounce:eace::clap2::eyebrows:

 

[atjohnson]

WOG, to be honest I would love to make a complete color change but due to time, I will just be doing the repairs. The two picture is not a good representation of the colors. In good light you can see the faint green shade in the pigment. I'm still not convinced that I can tint it the correct shade either. Looks like I might as well order some yellow just in case.

What size holes is common to drill in the deck for foam. Most of the ones I have seen done look like 2.5" or bigger, but I would much rather go as small as possible. Any suggestions?

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd keep the pour holes no smaller than 1 1/2" to 2" in size. The key IMHO is to Calculate your foam expansion properly by volume. Temps and Humidity WILL play a factor. Do a test with a small volume to see how the foam is reacting on the day of the pour and do your calculations. if you do em right, you'll get full chambers without to much blowout thru the holes. I'd also recommend holes at the ends of each section and in the center and pouring in each hole to ensure good flow and coverage of the liquified foam. Be ready to move quickly cuz it does go off quickly!!!

 

[JASinIL2006]

I would be surprised if there is much of a difference in the final integrity of the deck for holes that were 1.5" or 3". As long as you put the plugs back in with peanut butter and glass over the top thoroughly, they are really very strong.

Besides, trying to quickly pour foam that is starting to kick off through a 1.5" hole could be interesting... you really have to work quickly, moreso if it's warm out, I think.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Andy at boatworkstoday has a few video's on gelcoat, one is specifically on color matching. If you haven't seen them yet I recommend them. He sneaks up on the color little by little and preps and then puts test spots near the area to home in on it and uses a finer grit to sand the outer perimeter to blend the color in. It's all about fooling the eye. He mentioned darker colors ain't easy to match, whites not so bad. Me, I'll probably be in the first multi-colored boat you'll ever see on Sardis or Enid lakes so what do I know...

 

[atjohnson]

Rick after you posted the link, I actually watched most of his videos. I'm hoping to get lucky and not have to mix like he did to get my colors. I will probably be the other multi-colored boat just south of you.