93 Evinrude 60Hp

[Flyhog85]

I have an Evinrude 60 hp from 93 that I’m looking to replace the prop. I can’t find anything online about what pitch and rpm spec I need to stay in. Can anyone help me fix this?

Also is it possible that a spun prop hub could cause the engine rpm’s to hang around 4k and it feel like I’m losing power? I’ve got multiple issues going on and kind of hopes this was related to the repair I’m about to make.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Pull the prop, 'n look it over, the pitch is stamped/ cast onto it,.....

For yer other problem, check, 'n clean the fuel filter,.....

 

[racerone]

How did this motor run for you last season?-----Do a compression test and post your numbers.-----And does the tell tale hose fitting come off the side of the block or the top ??-------Water pump impeller replaced recently ?-----And no , a spun hub would let the revs go wild way beyond 4000 rpm !----What repair are you planning to make ?

 

[Flyhog85]

How did this motor run for you last season?-----Do a compression test and post your numbers.-----And does the tell tale hose fitting come off the side of the block or the top ??-------Water pump impeller replaced recently ?-----And no , a spun hub would let the revs go wild way beyond 4000 rpm !----What repair are you planning to make ?

Doing a compression check this weekend. Motor has always ran great for me even after the issue on the river. Tell tale is off the side and streaming good. As for when stuff was taken care of no clue on previous owners maintenance. My brother in law gave me the boat and he wasn’t aware of anything done prior to giving me the boat. So I’m operating under the assumption it probably needs a new head gasket, waterpump, and other seals.

Planning to replace all of the gaskets, fuel filter, needs a new prop something fierce, new impeller and seals, and while I’m at it I’m going to change out the lower unit oil and replace the spark plugs. Carbs were set and cleaned just before it was given to me last spring.

One other thing I wondered that could’ve happened is the air temp was 102 that day and the water temp was 52 (tail water river system) and I wondered if condensation could’ve gotten in the fuel lines and caused the issue. Because once I got in the lake and ran it that evening the boat started and ran great.

 

[racerone]

There was a service bulletin in 1994 ( 27 years ago ) to move tell tale to top of the block.-----The latest factory water pump kit has parts / instructions for this cooling system modifications.

 

[Flyhog85]

There was a service bulletin in 1994 ( 27 years ago ) to move tell tale to top of the block.-----The latest factory water pump kit has parts / instructions for this cooling system modifications.

Good to know. I was a mechanic on automotive engines for several years but I’m new to the world of outboards. Same basic concepts (spark,fuel, air etc) but when we’re talking about the oil injected systems it causes me a bit of anxiety lol.

 

[racerone]

Just like anything else the oil injection is simple if you understand how they work.-----It is important to understand that the systems are called " automatic " , but owner needs to maintain / inspect / check operation of these.

 

[Flyhog85]

Just like anything else the oil injection is simple if you understand how they work.-----It is important to understand that the systems are called " automatic " , but owner needs to maintain / inspect / check operation of these.

Exactly I’m still not entirely sure what constitutes VRO vs the regular oil injected and why the fuel pump for my motor is 500 bucks but the others is like 185.

 

[racerone]

The VRO ( variable ratio oiling ) is very simple and yes it is overpriced in my opinion

 

[Flyhog85]

Just like anything else the oil injection is simple if you understand how they work.-----It is important to understand that the systems are called " automatic " , but owner needs to maintain / inspect / check operation of these.

this boat was given to us as a pay it forward by my brother in law and he had someone go through it but I just don’t trust other folks to be as nitpicky as I am and after last weekend I figure it’s time to go ahead and bite the bullet and dig into it and verify everything is up to snuff.

Hoping that when I get my compression gauge back from my buddy I loaned it to that simply replacing the gasket, relocating the telltale, new plugs, new water pump and prop that after all of that the fuel pump can hang in there for at least another year because I really need to replace the decking and carpet.

 

[Flyhog85]

How did this motor run for you last season?-----Do a compression test and post your numbers.-----And does the tell tale hose fitting come off the side of the block or the top ??-------Water pump impeller replaced recently ?-----And no , a spun hub would let the revs go wild way beyond 4000 rpm !----What repair are you planning to make ?

So after testing my compression I have 90, 92, 90 on my cylinders. I’m not sure how accurate my gauge is but that’s where I’m at and they are all holding compression good. Also I may not have done the compression check properly.

I can’t find anywhere that shows the specs for my particular motor.

 

[Flyhog85]

Scratch that I did the warmup and let it idle for 5 minutes then pulled the plugs and tested each cylinder at WOT and compression came back at 110-112-110 on the cylinders.

 

[Flyhog85]

The VRO ( variable ratio oiling ) is very simple and yes it is overpriced in my opinion

So I had the issue again last night on the lake. Running wide open and it was running great. Then it bogged down about 4,000 rpm’s and dropped from 34 mph to 24 mph. Then surged back up.

Out of curiosity I reached back to check the primer bulb and noticed the transducer is throwing water directly at the fuel line fitting. Hard enough the clip came loose enough it was spitting fuel. Then the motor died like it would when I have ran it completely out of fuel before. I reconnected it and primed the bulb and it ran great as long as that jet of water wasn’t hitting it.

Could this be introducing water into my fuel enough to cause the problem? Or Could I have a coil overheating. Compression is 115-112-115 on the 1-2-3 cylinders. Ohms on my coils when cold are 266 on all three and the secondary reading is around 1.2. Could this just be a coincidence and it’s just my connector going bad (only good thing about this connection is they’re inexpensive lol I hate that ball bearing) or could this be an ignition system issue coinciding with other issues.

I know I need a new prop and bushing as well as a thrust washer but with the god compression readings and good spark I’m at a loss.

 

[airshot]

Why not correct the water getting on the fuel connector first and see if the issue gets resolved. Trying to fix multiple things at one time rarely works as you dont know which fix was the problem!!

 

[Flyhog85]

Why not correct the water getting on the fuel connector first and see if the issue gets resolved. Trying to fix multiple things at one time rarely works as you dont know which fix was the problem!!

Yup just replaced the fuel line connector and there was a noticeable difference in how much pressure was needed to put it on. Relocating the transducer to the r opposite side of the motor and going to test that tonight.

 

[flyingscott]

Exactly I’m still not entirely sure what constitutes VRO vs the regular oil injected and why the fuel pump for my motor is 500 bucks but the others is like 185.

The $185 one is a Chinese knockoff. The $500 is the OEM one and the one I would purchase. Or you can convert it to a premix motor with a $100 pump. As far as the prop goes look on the hub for either the size or parts #.

 

[Flyhog85]

Why not correct the water getting on the fuel connector first and see if the issue gets resolved. Trying to fix multiple things at one time rarely works as you dont know which fix was the problem!!

Just took her back out and still acting up. It’s dropping about 1,000 rpm’s and about 10 mph. If I turn it off and let it rest a bit it’ll be in great again. I’ve checked coils and timing looks good. Could this be a prop bushing?

 

[Flyhog85]

The $185 one is a Chinese knockoff. The $500 is the OEM one and the one I would purchase. Or you can convert it to a premix motor with a $100 pump. As far as the prop goes look on the hub for either the size or part

Just took her back out and still acting up. It’s dropping about 1,000 rpm’s and about 10 mph. If I turn it off and let it rest a bit it’ll be in great again. I’ve checked coils and timing looks good. Could this be a prop bushing?

The $185 one is a Chinese knockoff. The $500 is the OEM one and the one I would purchase. Or you can convert it to a premix motor with a $100 pump. As far as the prop goes look on the hub for either the size or parts #.

Got my prop number figures out just trying to chase this power gremlin down. Could that be the prop bushing if all of my other systems are checking out fine?

 

[Flyhog85]

Why not correct the water getting on the fuel connector first and see if the issue gets resolved. Trying to fix multiple things at one time rarely works as you dont know which fix was the problem!

Well after driving it a while it ran great. I’m thinking I had a fouled up carb and the chemtool cleared it up. At first it kept bogging down so I’m wondering if the water intrusion gummed up one of the carbs… I put some chemtool injection cleaner for marine engines in with a full tank and after a few episodes it was like it blew it all out and it ran like a top after that.

 

[Flyhog85]

The $185 one is a Chinese knockoff. The $500 is the OEM one and the one I would purchase. Or you can convert it to a premix motor with a $100 pump. As far as the prop goes look on the hub for either the size or parts #.

Is there any specific pump you recommend if I’m going to convert to premix.