'95 70hp Evinrude needs Viagra...

[bloody knuckles]

Re: '95 70hp Evinrude needs Viagra...

seriously doubt you screwed anything up.....got the linkages back in place? are the throttle valves parallel, moving together, and ending up horizontal (not beyond) at WOT?

when you advance the throttle, does the CAM hit the ROLLER right on the MARK?

what exactly are your symptoms as of right now?

Ok...a reset. Initial issue was lack of power at WOT. RPMs would max out at 2200-2500 depending on load in boat. Water test of f.pump by squeezing bulb repeatedly. Got hard but didn't improve performance (insert viagra joke here) No SLOW warning alarm but never really trusted it anyway so;

Treated with carb cleaner
Compression tested good for all 3 and good when compared to each other
New plugs, new stat (never changed b4), new water pump (3-4 season)
Checked function of each cyl by pulling plug wire while running (only 1 at a time) #3 had no affect on RPMs when pulled, 1 & 2 did. Swapped wires and plugs to isolate potential issues, same result when plug wires pulled.
Rebuilt carbs believing #3 had an issue and might as well do them all.

Put it all back together and tested with muffs. Idled ok for first 20-30 seconds and then ran away to WOT on it's own. Shut it down asap. Removed linkage and found black plastic spacer or washer piece wasn't put back on the throttle plate to linkage connection, but I don't think that was the issue. After pulling linkage back off tested each carb as discribed above. Not sure what to make of the dieing out of #2 & #3 and the fact that #1 responded as expected.

I just went out there a found a mysterious wire bundle disconnected and tucked between the f.pump and the carbs. Wires appear to connect to the port side of the fuel pump but it's hard to tell until it's removed. Four wires; black, grey, orange and purple. They progress up from the f.pump to a hard plastic connecter on the s.s. of the flywheel. The male end appears to be worn from friction against something...maybe the fly-wheel and that's why I tucked it away. Can't remember why that thing is disconnected...maybe something to do with the VRO that was disconnected a LONG time ago? Wouldn't be surprised if it is supposed to be unplugged and tucked away.

I think I can get all the linkage connections back in their proper place and maybe that will take care of the run away syndrome. But, the f.pump still makes that metal clicking sound that is loud and easily felt.

 

[jtexas]

Re: '95 70hp Evinrude needs Viagra...

that's the wiring for the VRO warning horn all right, I thought it shoulda been disconnected or else it'd be beeping at ya - search the board for help on that - or start a separate topic on it, to get the attention of somebody with more direct experience with it.

Apart from sharing your feelings in an open & honest way, there's only a couple things I can think of that would rev her up (you'd think pumping the bulb until it's hard would do it, but it don't): opening the throttle valves, and advancing the spark. The spark advance rod is the gold-colored piece above the work "MARK" in the picture - if it's securely in place then it must've been throttle valves not being secured by the linkages. There should be a plastic(nylon?) retainer clip holding those carb linkages in place. I always leave 'em in during a rebuild (the retainers, not the linkages).

Only other cause of runaway that I know of is thermal runaway, in which carbon in the cylinders heats up enough to ignite the charge so you can't shut it off, and the engine winds up fast enough to self-destruct; that only happens to people who rev their motors up over 1500 or so on the muffs.

I highly recommend the factory shop manual - describes the "link & sync" procedure (along with every other procedure) in detail much better than seloc or clymers - try kencook.com or marineengine.com

 

[bloody knuckles]

Re: '95 70hp Evinrude needs Viagra...

Got the FP off in preparation for putting non-VRO (43855) on. Came across this website http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html that had this diagram;





which looks exactly like the VRO\FP I pulled off. As I was reading the article, looking at the diagram and comparing both to my motor, I noticed there are two male connection points low on the engine block, and I'm not sure which one is the vacuum point. One is brass and the other is painted black metal. Based on the diagram it looks like the vacuum line attaches to the FP via the white\gray plastic 'L' connector labeled Engine Crankcase Pulse Fitting...but there is no reference to the connection point at the other end of the hose. My assumption is the brass connector...maybe because it's shiny and I like shiny stuff. It would not surprise me at all if at some point in the past the vacuum line came off the engine block and I re-connected it to the wrong male connector.

Anybody know what the correct connection point is for the vacuum line?


Thanks

 

[guy74]

Re: '95 70hp Evinrude needs Viagra...

I wonder if the bottom cylinder is flooding out from a bad fuelpump putting fuel in though the pulse line? Thats about the only thing I can think of right now. Try pulling the pulse line off and pump the primer bulb look for fuel in the pulse line.

 

[rickdb1boat]

Re: '95 70hp Evinrude needs Viagra...

Maybe this will help. The brass fitting in the pic is the pulse fitting...

 

[bloody knuckles]

Re: '95 70hp Evinrude needs Viagra...

Maybe this will help. The brass fitting in the pic is the pulse fitting...

This is perfect, thanks.

Behind and below the fuel filter there is a small diameter line that looks like a vacuum line. It is attached to the forward side of the block. Where does that go to and is it a brass, male connector?

Thanks