Adjusting Rockers 4.3

[MikDee]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Probably your starter drive was bound up all along, you just freed it up by a slight movement of the crank.

 

[Don S]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

He had the starter off and couldn't turn the engine with a screwdriver.
My guess is he had some surface rust around the rings that held it just enough. Had he used the starter, he probably would never have noticed the problem ............... or really broke something.

 

[jdtower23]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Don,

You don't have any concerns over the fuel dumping out? It was a good amount, at least a few ounces....did it right when it broke loose....

 

[Reel Poor]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Anyone have any idea what may have caused it to bind? What should I do before I proceed?

Thanks

Tighten the fuel line so it doesn't pump any more fuel on the intake.

Install the starter and spin the engine (plugs and rockers still out/off) several times with the starter. If everything seems fine, loosely reinstall the #1 cylinder intake rocker only. Turn the engine by hand in a clockwise rotation (standing in front of the engine facing it) with your finger on the rocker right over the push rod, holding down on the rocker with some pressure. When the push rod moves your finger and rocker up and then back down the #1 piston is coming up on the compression stroke, move the timing mark on the balancer on to the TDC mark. This will be TDC #1. Install the distributor now and the rest of the rockers loosely (top of the nuts flush with the top of the studs. Then adjust valves per manuals instructions.

 

[jdtower23]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Reel,

Thanks, that helps a lot...appreciate everyone's help so far!

 

[Don S]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Don,

You don't have any concerns over the fuel dumping out? It was a good amount, at least a few ounces....did it right when it broke loose....

While you are doing all the engine turning, if you don't want to have gas all over the place, go to the auto parts store and get a 3/8" reverse flare cap for the fuel line and cap it off, Then when you get ready to put the carb on, remove the cap (It will be pressureized, so catch the gas) and hook it to the carb.

One other thing when you do your valve adjustment. When you are tightening the nut down to remove the free play in the pushrod (before makeing the final adjustment) only do it once. DO NOT turn it down till the pushrod stops moving, wait and find it loose and do it again. ONE TIME ONLY, then do your additional 3/4 or 1 turn.

 

[jdtower23]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Don,

I actually have the carb already on, I just didn't have the line tightened....

I tightened the line up and cranked it a few times....cranked fine with good speed....

Thanks for the tip on the valves....I did go back and tighten some that came loose last time....

 

[jdtower23]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

I followed Reel's advice to find TDC #1....pretty sure I was actually in the same spot before......the #3 intake valve should be opening correct?

Now, on the adjustment, when adjusting the cyls applicable to #1 TDC, do I tighten the others applicable to #4 TDC to zero lash AFTER rotating the motor to #4?

Sorry if it's a stupid question....just don't want to take any chances this time.....

Thanks

 

[jdtower23]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Nevermind, I know the answer...I should just have the #4 valves with the nut flush with the top until rotating it right?

 

[Don S]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

I think you may have a problem doing it as RP mentioned.
I'm doing this from memory, and don't have a V6 to look at so if I'm wrong, someone please say something.
The #1 intake valve should move no matter which stroke you are on. To find TDC of #1 on the compression stroke you need BOTH push rods in. also put them in #4. Now turn the engine (BY HAND) till the push rod on #4 cylinder are rocking, ie. one push rod goes up then within a degree or two the other push rod goes down while passing the timing mark on the vibration dampner. When this happens, then #1 is on compression stroke. Then you adjust all the valves that should be adjusted while on #1 TDC on the compression stroke. Then turn the engine I complete revolution and bring the timing mark up again. IF you notice, #1 cylinder has one push rod goes up, then the other goes down. That puts #4 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke.
Be very carefull with which valves are intake and which are exhaust. A quick look of where the ports go should explain that.

It just shouldn't take over a hundred post to make an engine turn. Why don't you have a manual......... It would have been easy to follow.

 

[jdtower23]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Don,

I've already adjusted all the ones applicable to #1....I'm almost positive it was at #1 TDC....all the valves adjusted properly....both #1's were closed....

Is there any way I can confirm without taking them all back out again?

I do have a manual although I still need to get the factory one...

 

[Reel Poor]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

If you adjusted all the rockers that should be adjusted with #1 at TDC that means both valves on #1 have been adjusted. With all UNadjusted valves still loose(nuts flush with the top of the studs). Turn the motor by hand with your finger in the #1 plug hole. On the second full revolution of the crankshaft #1 cylinder should build compression as the piston comes to TDC.

 

[jdtower23]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Reel,

I had it a TDC #1....all the valves adjusted like they were supposed to, look very similar to before i took it apart as far as the thread depth....and now my rotor points to #4....

Quick question, my rotor is turning and everything and the distrib did drop down from initially putting it in there, it just doesn't look perfectly flush....I guess the oil pump shaft is still not grabbing.....

I will take a better look tomorrow...if it's up its not much at all....what's the best way to get that shaft locked in? Just a screwdriver?

Thanks

 

[Reel Poor]

Re: Adjusting Rockers 4.3

Here is a Cut and Past how to;

The process to install a distributor is as follows: Crank the engine over until the number one piston is coming up on the compression stroke. You can remove all the spark plugs and crank it over with your finger in the #1 spark plug hole and wait until you feel the compression start to build up. Both valves will be closed.

Next, watch for the timing mark to come to TDC. Stop the cranking there. Now set the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the #1 position on the distributor, ie. where the #1 spark plug wire would be when the cap was in place.

Insert the distributor into place and make sure the gear is engaged. Then push it into place. The distributor gear is a bevel gear which means that the distributor shaft will rotate when you push it into place. You need to watch to see how much it turns and then compensate by backing off the position on initial insertion so that it is perfectly lined up when it is fully seated.

The oil pump shaft may be driven by the bottom of the distributor. If it is then it may be difficult to get the distributor to line up with the sloted shaft in the oil pump at the same time you have the gears lined up. When you are absolutely sure you have it ready to go in and have the gears engaged, just rotate the engine a slight bit until the oil pump shaft lines up and it will go in easily.

Recheck the position by going thru the cranking process described above and make sure that the rotor points to the #1 position on the cap when the crankshaft is lined up on TDC on the compression stroke.

Remember, the crankshaft is lined up on TDC twice as the distributor turns around, once on TDC when the piston is coming up on the exhaust stroke and once when it is coming up on the compression stroke!! Don't get the two positions confused. Make sure you are on TDC on the compression stroke.