Advice for a 1974 Evinrude 70 HP

[johnson76244]

Thanks Andrew I appreciate the post and welcome anytime to give advice and experience. If you have pictures that would be great.

 

[johnson76244]

chinewalker - you also suggest taking the plate off to look at the bearings? I'm just wondering how many bolts I'm going to have to drill out and how many drill bits I'm going to snap in doing so

 

[racerone]

Judging by post # 1 this motor may have sand in the beariings.----Yes you may be able to get it running for a while.------------Moisture inside these motors and exposure to air quickly corrodes / rusts the bearings.--------You may not have a good understanding of what I call fine machinery.------I say this motor will not run for long !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Bosunsmate]

That is promising and that oil is still in there somewhere. Id start off by spraying a full can of wd40 into the sparkplug holes as you slowly turn the motor.
Id also drop the leg to make that easier and smoother so you can tell if it has any sticky/rough spots.
You will need to drop the leg to replace the impeller anyway. That will be toast and needs to be replaced every two years anyway.

The wiring is normally pretty easy as they are much bigger than car wires and bigger connectors too.
If it was me id keep the engine key off so the wires were grounded and once you were sure that the engine was spinning by hand ok, then hook up a jumper wire to the solenoid and jump the motor direct on that while fogging.

Those wires come marine tinned, be sure to get tinned wires from a shop otherwise you will be replacing them every few months

 

[Bosunsmate]

If the bearings are rusted out then itl probably be the main bearings the wrist pins and the crank, all of that to replace would add up to most likely more than you could get a working second hand for, so id just oil it up with a 50/1 mix maybe even a touch more and see how it goes.
Take a kicker along of course

 

[Bosunsmate]

Ive had salt water on bearings before sitting for about three months and the motors still going fine, ive never had sand in the engine though so cant comment on that if sands in there too

 

[volchara]

If there is no corrosion in the inner cavity of the crankcase then the motor will go another 100 years.It is very reliable and durable engines.We have a lot of fans of this brand and working condition even motors released in 30-ies. I was not the first experience with these motors and restored frankly *dead* and work without problems.The only thing that is bad is if the motor has been in salt water will periodically fail Electrica but not fact.Disassemble completely the engine,replace all the bearings and You will be happy.Here is my disassembled the motor,now waiting for the bearings,two days ago were sent from new York.Photo podredaktiruem in the editor and put,if something is specifically interested in ask experience repairing these motors from 4 to 70 horsepower available.Due to the lack of spare parts at affordable prices,analogues of some of the parts put on the car,even blocks CDI do

 

[volchara]

The motor got quite lively,compression on two cylinders was 10 but in one 8.5 atmospheres and there was a gap in the piston,during the analysis it was found that went out the rod bearings and needle bearing piston pin.Please excuse the mess on the table photo was doing at the time of the parsing engine and medical purity there is no need,if not lost interest in the show then what happened after my work.Also,if something in my words is not clear,it is ignorance of the language,translate online translator.I don't know whether it was appropriate that I intruded on Your forum,if something is against your principles,then tell me,I will not interfere,it is simply interesting to communicate with colleagues on the hobby in other countries.By the way broken bolts can be etched by chemical solutions,are very well etched oxide of alkali used santehniki to clean the radiator(I don't know you use it or not) it is also convenient to drill drills reverse rotation,in most cases, the room just gets out and not have to cut the thread.Here is the thread we have the same problem,You have an inch and we have a metric,so we have to try not to break))) Can't insert a photo.What size and extension, you can load the files?

 

[volchara]

No Title

Understand the size of the photo

 

[johnson76244]

Bosun - The sand was packed on the backside of the engine not around carbs and those look in good shape I should have taken pictures it was quite the sight. We cleaned the motor sprayed it up with Seafoam repaired the broken wires which only new connectors were needed. I have a new rectifier and ignition coming so that was the last thing that had a broken wire where we couldn't fix it. After the ignition and the rectifier is in place we'll do exactly what everyone has stated with the fuel along with fogging or WD40 if that is suggested over fogging oil. Right now there are no electronics hooked which will be done when we're ready to start the engine. The motor cranks by hand freely and can't feel where there are rough spots.

Racer - I appreciate your input but I agree with Bosun to do all the work it would be as much or more than a second hand motor, with $550 into the boat, motor and trailer if it doesn't work out I can get more than I paid by parting out I think, heck I could get close to that just on the trailer, trust me I got a fantastic deal on this unit. I would love to totally rebuild the engine but the time factor and space to do it in isn't there the wife will require her spot in the garage soon

 

[volchara]

WD 40 in any case, do not use for wiring and connectors! This conductive current liquid and will be a lot of stray currents,which will break the contact.There is a special silicone sprays to improve contact.550 $ for the motor with the boat?- We have only the motor is on the exchange rate translated into dollars 2000$)))) and this old motors and the price is still relatively low.Take a photo of the wires which you have fallen off I will look at your motor where it goes or manual

 

[Bosunsmate]

Bosun - The sand was packed on the backside of the engine not around carbs and those look in good shape I should have taken pictures it was quite the sight. .......... with fogging or WD40 if that is suggested over fogging oil. Right now there are no electronics hooked which will be done when we're ready to start the engine. The motor cranks by hand freely and can't feel where there are rough spots.)

It must of being quite a surprise when you lifted that cowling off. I just spray two stroke mix into the cylinders before i start fogging just to get the cylinders lubed before spinning. That way if the carbs are blocked at least you know the cylinder walls have some lubrication on them. Sometimes i use wd40 as its easier to spray and is easier to get more pressure to squirt into the spark plug hole and thus get closer to the rings.
Id definitely use fogging oil for a little burst at least if you can afford it.
Drop the LU too,that way you dont need to bother about running water into it as if you dont run water into the LU while spinning the motor the impellor doesnt get lubricated and will burn up including sending bits of rubber into the powerhead blocking up water channels.
You will need to put in a new impellor anyway.
When you come to start it properly you can just hook a hose on to the water tube to provide water, that way you can check its going ok before you buy an impellor

 

[johnson76244]

Thanks Bosun I appreciate the suggestions and will follow them. Will let you know what happens.

 

[volchara]

Please tell me, where can I download the operating instructions for outboard Johnson 50 ELEOS 1995 goda.I such a thing possible?

 

[Bosunsmate]

try in here, it definitely has the service manual
http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html

 

[volchara]

Thank you! We now check outboards require an instruction to the motor,to buy on eBay no problems but shipping gold out.

 

[johnson76244]

Hey guys it's been a while. Progressing really slowly but so far took off the lower unit and more cleaning there drained the gear oil and about a half cup of water came out then the gear oil came out so I'll put some fresh back in and drain it then put another batch of fresh.

I have a question though we disassembled the controller replaced the ignition switch, choke switch and redid the wires which were corroded. Once back together we tried to shift the motor into forward and it wouldn't budge but does go into reverse. With the lower unit off we are able to manually move the linkage and there is no binding. Could the issue be in the engine or cables? We didn't take the cables off and try to move the lever on the motor yet. Thanks.

 

[johnson76244]

Also were can I find out the S/N, Model or anything on the tilt trim for my 1974 70473m Evinrude 70 HP there is no plate nothing that I can see. I can get to a tilt trim diagram but I don't know if its the correct one. I would like to replace hydraulic fluid in it eventually and would like to get the correct parts... Thanks.

 

[racerone]

Water in the lower unit is a bad sign.--The lower unit needs a seal kit.-------Motor should be turning / running for easiest shifting.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Id replace the seals on the drive shaft and shift shaft first as they are the easiest to do and new washer gaskets then recheck after use.
Then put the gearbox back on then check that it goes into gear without using controls and then with controls.
Also sometimes you need to move the flywheel a bit to get it to slip into gear