AeroCraft York 1960ish Transom, Stringers, Deck

saginawbayboater

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Well I wanted to bolt the gearcase up to the motor leg, but not today. Couldn't find the 3/8 x 3.75 coarse bolt or the four 3/8 coarse x 1.75. My bad! No 1/4 sizes at the hardware. Have to go to the fastener store monday. Oh well have to get my mind right with Evan Williams today. :D
 

saginawbayboater

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Been reading all the great threads here and watchin video how toos on the paint and prep issues at hand of the lower end of an outboard. Thanks WOG!! And instead of putting the lower unit on the motor I have started the prep for paint.




I also sand blasted the prop and applied the SE primer .

 

saginawbayboater

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Once I get the gear case stripped I will wipe it down with white vinegar, and then the kleanz-easy surface cleaner. Then spray it with the SE primer.
 

saginawbayboater

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I was going through my stock and I found the metal prep spray I had bought when I repainted my side by side fridge doors 6 months ago. i went ahead and used it on the lower unit.
 

saginawbayboater

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after wiping that on i waited for 5 or 6 minutes and then wiped it off with warm water.





Then a coat of se primer
 

sphelps

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Looks great ! Looking forward to the finish coats ..:encouragement:
 

zool

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The MS 6383 is good stuff, gives a nice sterile surface...looking good Sag ;)
 

nurseman

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Just read through your thread, looking good! I like what you are doing with your cap!! Lower unit is looking sweet as well. I will follow along if you don't mind.
 

Woodonglass

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SAG The SE primer only requires a light coating. In fact, it's preferred. You should be able to see the metal underneath it. You then follow up with a couple of coats of Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer before the Color coats.
 

Zyen

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hey SBB. permission to come aboard, captain?
i just seen this thread.
looking good.
 

saginawbayboater

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Just read through your thread, looking good! I like what you are doing with your cap!! Lower unit is looking sweet as well. I will follow along if you don't mind.

Thanks for stopping by Nurseman! Glad your here. This has become a cool journey, and the more the merrier!
 

saginawbayboater

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SAG The SE primer only requires a light coating. In fact, it's preferred. You should be able to see the metal underneath it. You then follow up with a couple of coats of Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer before the Color coats.

Thanks Wood I did put it on a little thicker then that, I think, on the prop and the first side of the gear case. Should i sand it off and spray it again or would letting it dry longer be ok? I don't think its thick but you definately can't see metal through it.:noidea: Also I am going with majic primer and paint. I've made a couple trips to TS to check thing out! Thanks WOG
 

zool

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Thanks Wood I did put it on a little thicker then that, I think, on the prop and the first side of the gear case. Should i sand it off and spray it again or would letting it dry longer be ok? I don't think its thick but you definately can't see metal through it.:noidea: Also I am going with majic primer and paint. I've made a couple trips to TS to check thing out! Thanks WOG

you're ok with the rusto SE up to 2.5 mils dry per coat...just scuff it up before putting on the rest of the paint system.....



http://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/Dig...mer%20TDS.ashx
 
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zool

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Thanks a bundle zool I'll do that.

You can add more coats if needed to fair it. Woody is right about pure SE primers just getting a dusting, but you have a dual purpose SE and Build primer in one step product........so u just cover it with paint and hardener if desired.
 
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saginawbayboater

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Started working on the cover. cleaned it with mineral spirits. Plastic emblems were very brittle, and fell apart. Pealed all the stickers and started sanding.




 

saginawbayboater

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Sprayed some primer on where i sanded just to see some of the bad spots. Mixed up some marinetex I've had for a while to fill the emblem holes. Just horsing around really! I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm doing something.


 
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