. . . and I Thought Hi-tech Boat Engines Were Bad . . .

[tpenfield]

We took the car to NJ this weekend to visit some college friends. The car made it there and back. The door lock thing seems to have stopped, so it must have been a water/moisture thing. The keyfob still does not like to start the car, so I have to hold it next to the steering column and then it will start.

I have wondered to myself if this Carly OBD2 thing is making matters worse. I'll have to figure it out, since I'm not scheduled for an automotive upgrade for many years

 

[Scott Danforth]

Your fob battery is low if it needs to be close to the RFID reader. Even if the fob will unlock the doors. The Admiral's VW Beetle was like that

(A real key in a real ignition switch never has that problem)

 

[tpenfield]

Yes, but I replaced the battery - still does it.

my F–150 does have a key though

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yes, but I replaced the battery - still does it.

Check the battery or fob battery connections

 

[tpenfield]

OK . . I've been looking into the recurring fault codes.

Here is a new one to me . . . LIN ( Local Interconnect Network ). Apparently it is a low cost network used in cars instead of a CAN Bus network. There are master and slave nodes on the LIN Bus. The LIN bus does connect to a CAN Bus at some point along the network. The LIN basically provides control to all the automatic things in a car.

• Cruise control.
• Wipers.
• Radio.
• Climate control.
• Small motors.
• Side mirrors.
• Seat control.
• Locks.
• Rain sensors.
• Headlights.
• Etc . . .

It appears that some of the fault codes are related to certain nodes on the LIN Bus.

https://www.autopi.io/blog/lin-bus-protocol-explained/

Most cars have them to various extents. Who wouldda thunk there was such a thing.

Apparently there are 2 nodes causing problems (#5 & #7). I probably need to see if there is any info in the Owner's Manual, or if I can get a network diagram online (somewhere)

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ted, hope you find the offending module. On the daily whip the door lock module is also the TPMS module. High mortality on them. So instead of replacing again....I have been using the key in the locks and manually checking tire pressure

Your thread along with personal experience of similar issues on Hondas, VW, GM, Ram etc keeps reinforcing why my next project vehicle will have manual windows, manual locks, manual top, manual transmission, Manual brakes with adjustable bias bar and a simple switch for the lights

As it sits now....after 73 years, the locks still lock, the windows still open and close, the top mechanism still works.

 

[Scott Danforth]

And just like that....GM may be reading this thread

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2023/08/gm-cutting-200-engineering-positions-to-reduce-costs-and-complexity/amp/

 

[Lou C]

When my son got his first new Jeep after my hand me down ‘98 Grand Cherokee he got a ‘17 Wrangler Unlimited Sport with:
Manual transmission
Manual Windows
Manual locks
Just the way he wanted it!

 

[tpenfield]

I've been on the BimmerFest forum the past few days. Just learned that a sensor for the keyfob is located in the center console behind the cup holders. I placed the keybob there and the car starts up. Got to try the other keyfob as well to see if there is some consistency.

Still trying to figure out what the two sections of the LIN Bus that are getting 'desynchronization' faults (K-LIN 5 and K-LIN 7) are connected to. Maybe one of them is the keyfob sensor. Maybe there is a service manual for the car . The Owner's Manual did not have anything about the 'network'

I also found a way to look for 'Error Codes' using the instrument panel buttons (trip odometer reset button). The were no Error Codes, but I believe it only shows those that would give a CEL, which I do not have.

 

[dolluper]

You might want to check out this manual project
It has BMW only to 2013 including 2013 So it may help.. Other forum members may benefit from it also...free very good almost like alldata
Link below

Free Car Service Manuals from Operation CHARM — No strings attached!

Operation CHARM provides completely free repair/service/workshop manuals for over 50,000 models of cars and trucks manufactured 1982-2013. No sign-up or paywall.

charm.li

 

[aspeck]

Was just talking to a "very good shade tree mechanic" and friend yesterday. We were talking about these Beamer codes and his comment was, "I wouldn't do this for anyone else, but if it was my car I would disconnect the battery and put the positive and negative terminals together and leave them that way for 30-60 minutes. That will discharge everything and totally clear all the control modules and sensors. Then hook up the battery and you really have a fresh start."

 

[stresspoint]

Yes, but I replaced the battery - still does it.

my F–150 does have a key though

sometimes you need to buy OEM battery or a substitute with the same output,
a friend went through this recently with a Toyota keyless start, it would not work at all ,i told the owner to replace the battery in the fob , owner replaced battery with a generic one , and had the same issue as you are having .
he went to stealership and they replaced with OEM and its now working fine., guess they may have re set the RFID in the fob to the BCM at the same time

 

[dolluper]

Interesting this lin
It works with a transceiver on the battery power line 12 volts instead of 5 volts
.lt also works on k line which is pin 7 on the obd2 data connector
Popping the battery cables together may clear the codes and reset... But re registration of battery will differently be a must.

 

[tpenfield]

I appreciate the input and comments. Keep 'em coming.

Quick update . . .

I found a few threads on the BMW forum about the keyfob 'receiver' not working when the car is warm/hot from sitting in the sun. I'll have to keep an eye on this, but yesterday afternoon (hot sunny day), the fobs had trouble working. This morning (cooler weather), they work fine.

Still trying to figure out what a 'desynchronization' fault of a LIN Bus actually means. Here are the 2 errors from the Carly App.

 

[dolluper]

Heres a little read on Lin bus with a silly scope

Exploring the LIN bus with an oscilloscope

The Local Interconnect Network (LIN) Bus was created to augment CAN Bus, at first in automotive applications and later for industrial use. CAN Bus was

www.testandmeasurementtips.com

 

[stresspoint]

have you by any chance had a AM head deck fitted or some PO had one and then went back to the original to sell the car ???.

 

[dolluper]

The codes make me think something has spilled like a coffee from the glove box cup holders and ran down into the junction box module and affected the connection at the module connectors as it is behind your glove box and plugged in below the fuse box
Contact spray on connectors may solve those codes....or just simply unplugging and plugging back in...wiggled loose

 

[nola mike]

Yes, if/when you change the battery, there is a 'registration' process which basically tells the computer that the battery is new and to use a 'new' battery charging profile. As the battery ages, the charging profile adjusts since the battery typically does not charge as well.

When I got my mini, I went through this. Low battery throws a ton of codes. Not only is the battery a PITA to replace, but you need to recode if you swap a different Ah battery, AGM for lead acid, etc.
My last car ('02 330Ci) I bought with 135k miles and sold with 235k. Was mostly pretty reliable for the age. Cooling system issues, a PITA oil leak, intake manifold gasket (surprisingly horrible to replace). My mini ('14 JCW convertible) I've now had for 3 years, it has 85k miles now. Just started triggering the CEL. Looks to be a wastegate issue. To get to it, the whole damn car basically needs to be taken apart. And of course you can't R&R the wastegate or buy it as a separate part. You need to buy the whole damn turbo. If you want a very powerful code reading app, try deepobd. It can do a ton of stuff, including reading bmw/mini specific codes. I have, since i've owned the car, always had a bunch of low level faults that come and go. For whatever reason, some codes aren't clearable and will stay there long after they're active. Hasn't been an issue.

You might want to check out this manual project
It has BMW only to 2013 including 2013 So it may help.. Other forum members may benefit from it also...free very good almost like alldata
Link below

Free Car Service Manuals from Operation CHARM — No strings attached!

Operation CHARM provides completely free repair/service/workshop manuals for over 50,000 models of cars and trucks manufactured 1982-2013. No sign-up or paywall.

charm.li

Wow! That's awesome, thanks. Bentley apparently stopped making manuals, and I've been trying to find a good shop manual. Toying with an alldata or motologic subscription, but a lot of times the support for foreign/newer cars (esp BMW/VAG/etc) is thin. Definitely going to look through this to help with my issue.

 

[tpenfield]

Quick Update . . .

I have not used my car in about a week or so. Yesterday, I got in, started it, it complained about the battery. So, maybe like the boat engine, it is very sensitive to voltage issues which lets the gremlins out of the cage.

Next stop . . . a new battery.

 

[Scott Danforth]