Another Q about this '71 9.5hp

[Crosbyman]

btw .. the word TOP does not mean TDC it means the cam top side must be on TOP.... the hight point of the cam lobe is not TOP...!!


tdc high point of the cam is where you set .020 gap but the video does it better

 

[F_R]

Stop!! Cam is not spring loaded on a 9.5. Pushing it down when not aligned will probably break it.

 

[guy48065]

Aligned?

 

[guy48065]

I removed the timing plate and wiggled the cam off. Then I removed the woodruff key to inspect it. It looked ok so I just reinstalled it but tilted a little like a ramp to catch a bit more of the slot in the cam.
I scraped out the 52 year old hardened grease and rubbed new marine grease on the moving parts of the plate--then put it all back together.
Now the cam slot is full of key--but if the key is undersize the flywheel might press it deeper into the pocket.

Not sure what to do here. Aren't woodruff keys standardized sizes so it wouldn't make any difference to replace it?

 

[guy48065]

make certain the oiler wick is in and oiled 1-2 drops

I doubt I'm going to find 'correct' oil for this locally. I think assembly lube has all the correct properties...agree?
I have a lot of lubricants on hand but most of them are at the ends of the viscosity spectrum--greases & penetrating oils.

 

[flashback]

Probably won't hurt to get a new key, who knows if the key you have is correct.

 

[guy48065]

I couldn't wait any longer.
I didn't clean the carb.
I didn't adjust or clean the points.
I didn't install new plugs.
I just hooked up fuel and started it. It runs great...until it doesn't. A little bit after I stopped recording the motor slowed down a little and started misfiring a bit. Then it stopped. Started right up again but did the same.
I don't think it's an exhaust leak, bad condensers or seized lower unit. I'm hoping it's something with the carb so I've ordered a repair kit.

 

[Crosbyman]

heat causes things to fail.... like condensers, coils

do what needs to be done ! and don't run high speed in a bucket....

carb 100% clean check coils for cracks, wires etc...change condensers
a vom test is not enough they must be tested at 250v+
check fuel pump... if hand pumping helps the pump is bad or sucking air

 

[guy48065]

I didn't think to try squeezing the primer when it started coughing & slowing down.
I did notice as I was putting everything away that I had forgotten to open tank vent
I discount that as the cause because it always started right up again with some choke & 1 or 2 pulls.

I do intend to go thru and check/adjust/replace what needs attention. I just HAD to start her up. Everything was pointing towards it having no issues.

All the suggestions & tips are greatly appreciated.

 

[guy48065]

The next time I was able to wheel that motor out into the light I started off by pulling the gearbox plugs. A very small amount of black pudding oozed out
Today I pulled the lower & took it apart to change the impeller & inspect the gears. The impeller looked awful and I'm surprised it worked at all. The gears had no visible wear and the pudding wasn't sparkly or chunky. I doubt modern powdered metal gears would take that abuse & not show any damage!

I resealed the box & put it all back together with a new Sierra impeller. In my haste I didn't catch that I was ordering a "replacement for" rather than genuine OMC part--but I trust Sierra.

Because of the RTV I couldn't test today to see if that was causing the motor to cough & stop when in gear. Fingers crossed.