AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

[74bayliner]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

I had the crack between the valve seats show up when I got my head tanked and inspected. the machine shop guy was nice and said he would only charge me 20 for the tanking... so i went to canada (closest i could find at the time) and picked up a b20 automotive cylinder head.. it was than tanked and inspected and found to be perfect... but there are a few modifications such as the Thermostat Housing is different on automotive so you need have machine shop drill a hole for the bypass tube as per one of my earlier posts... once that was done i was happy. the only other issue i saw was the temp. sender hole was bigger than the thread size of the temp. sender so now i have to modify that...
but i hope that yours is fine which im sure it is if you had the machine shop plane it.

 

[Allbutwet]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

74bayliner: is there any particular reason you replaced the whole piston and not just the rings?

Yes. I am having the cylinders bored .030 over. This is because the cylinders were pitted from water getting in them. This boat was severely neglected. Therfore the pistons must grow as well.

PiratePast40:Looks like a good read on the big end bearings since the later model (8 bolt flywheel) engines use a different size than the earlier ones. Not sure if others would agree, but I'd be inclined to have the machine shop install the cam bearings since they have the correct tools to do the job.

Have you inspected the cam lobes for wear? Once they are worn down past the hardened surface, they'll wear pretty fast. You can have a cam resurfaced and hardened material replaced (i forgot the correct term) or you can replace it with a standard "C" grind.

Edit - I know the thread title is cam bearings but wanted to say something about the heads on those engines as long as this is really about a rebuild. Make sure that either you or the machine shop does a really good inspection of the head once it's cleaned up. They are prone to cracking between the valve seat and guide and that type of crack is probably not repairable. When the machinist is cleaning up the head, ask him to remove the minimal amount of material when he planes the surface. These engines were designed when higher octane fuel was common and any time you reduce the effective area, you're increasing the compression. Don't plane the head down any more than necessary or at least be aware that you may need to run higher octane fuel.

First off Pirate. I intentionally posted this with the intension of getting others input. Whether it applies directly to my engine specifically or not. So any of your info is welcome anytime on any of my post.
As far as my Cam bearings go. Yes the machine shop will install them. I can't even by an installer for what they charge to do sn my head which is pictured on my resto page. I stripped it down myself to do an inspection. Specifically for cracks. All except for one hard seat which appears to be flaking at the edges and normal grease and dirt in things it looks really good. It passed inspection for being warped.So it will not require plainning. I was going to die pin it to be ceartain of no cracks, but I'm going to have the machine shop clean and refurbish it. So they will do the magnetic partical test as part of thier service. The cam itself looks and mic'd out good. The bottom end was in great shape. If it wasn't for neglect it would of been a great motor still. And I would have just cleaned it up and changed all of the bearings and rings. And had the head redone.

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

Looking good - keep the pictures and progress reports coming.

 

[Allbutwet]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

Just for your info. Having done some more research. The B20 engines prior to 1975 used a 22MM wrist pin. And 75 and newer a 24MM wrist pin. My wrist pins are 24MM. Not sure if there was ever a change in that area for the marine version but thought I would throw it out there. Hopefully to keep someone from getting the wrong parts.

 

[74bayliner]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

And thank goodness there is return policies lol

 

[Allbutwet]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

Ok so here is what came today from Ipd usa.

IPD numbers as follows.
Piston set .030 over : 110700
Cam bearings standard : 101294
Main bearings standard : 101293
Rod bearings Standard :101287
45MM freeze plug : 101299
42MM freeze plug : 101301
And somebody forgot the wrist pin busings Will get those tommorow. Again I spent eight hours cross referancing these. And making sure they were right. The piston and wrist pin, on the top left are the old ones getting replaced

Well it appears I have made an error when it comes to my pistons. I ordered .030 oversized IPDusa # 110700/ Volvo penta # 272004. These are correct numbers. However it would appear these are the numbers for pre 1974. Which means that they have a 22MM wrist pin. I now have to go back and see if they can get me Volvo penta # 272059. This is the number for the oversize .030 with a 24 MM wrist pin. Anyway I will let you know how it goes.:facepalm:

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

I believe that's one of the differences between the 6 bolt and 8 bolt flywheel. The 8 bolt (later) came in at the same time as the introduced the higher horsepower, fuel injected B20F.

Its frustrating finding rebuild parts for these older engines. Ive been lucky with minimal cylinder wear so didn't need to go oversize on the pistons or rings. I did however, need a new cam because the old one was worn. Sounds like you're getting there - keep plugging away.

 

[74bayliner]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

Chris, any update on the Pistons... After we move into our new house i decided im gonna go for it and get new pistons and all new bearings and probably bore 30 over myself... please update if you got the correct pistons i will be using you as a reference lol.

 

[74bayliner]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

Just wanted to update this encase someone was wondering. Me and Allbutwet have the same engine and I have been a leech for information off of him. I made the same mistake and ordered those pistons and found out they were the wrong wrist pin size. 22 instead of my needed 24.
Returned them and Purchased new Piston set.
Part number RY2600-30 (-30 in our case as we are going 30 over) By ITM Engine Parts (you may find them online but i was able to order mine from CAR QUEST AUTO PARTS... So if you have one of these near you and you are looking for this piston try them.

This particular piston is for the B30 Engine (the only difference between the b20 and b30 is the b30 is a 6 cylinder. for the automotive equivalent 1975 Volvo 164.
Because as Allbutwet has mentioned they used 22mm wrist pins before 1974 but 1975 they used the 24mm. which in our case with the VOLVO AQ130D seems to be 24mm in both of our engines.

Hope this provides some insight.

I dont intend for this to ressurect a thread. I just wanted to update it encase someone came across this and had the same issue. I feel this thread is full of knowledge and will help many people in the future.

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

Glad to hear that you're coming along with the parts and pieces. I believe the six cylinder folllows the same years as the 4 clyinders with the larger wrist pins, pistons, and big end bearings. Again, you can tell by the flywheel. Later models have the 8 bolt flywheel while the earlier ones have the 6 bolt.

If you haven't allready, might want to look into getting the updated rear crank seal. The newer housings use a neoprene vs felt seal and are much easier to install. I've seen them at both IPD and fcp Groton. Compare prices.

Another issue neither of you has mentioned is the camshaft. If yours is worn down and you don't want top bother with a shop buildiing it up for you, the Isky 'C' grind is the same thing.

 

[74bayliner]

Re: AQ130D Cam bearinss ?

Ok thank you.

Yes Pirate either you or Sqbtr told me about the rear seal and i went ahead and purchased it already.

and i sent u a pm