Asking for help - Starting Evinrude 65 hp electric shift

[S. S. Lanier]

I was recently gifted a 1984 Sea Sprite cougar with a 1972 evinrude 65 hp electric shift motor. Our first two times out went fine, and so did the 3rd until we tried to start the boat to leave and nothing happened. We had started it twice while we were anchored to let the battery charge and it started fine then also.
Battery is charged and holding at 12v. If my dad were he he could have it fixed in a heartbeat I'm sure, but he lives out of state and 300 miles away. He's tried doing some test over the phone with my husband. Tested the solenoids and they're fine. Motor is getting power. We think it's something in the remote control. If you turn the key it just clicks. When trying to crank the motor over bypassing the ignition the prop is turning, which I think means it's in gear.
I know this is a long post, it's my first, but thank you for taking the time to read and for any suggestions you may be able to offer.

 

[racerone]

It will always be in forward gear when the motor is stopped !------Step # 1 is to get your battery load tested , even if it is new.-----A free service at many battery selling places.

 

[flyingscott]

If you are using the starting battery as a power source for the radio and whatever else. That needs to be changed the starting battery should be for starting only. 12 volts is not a charged battery a healthy battery will be 12.9-13.5 volts.

 

[S. S. Lanier]

Thank you for the help so far. We are taking it to get a load test done when my husband gets home. The battery is in the charger now.

 

[S. S. Lanier]

Got the load test done, he said that it still needed charging so they're keeping it overnight on a slow charger. Will know more tomorrow.

 

[S. S. Lanier]

Slow charged overnight and did the load test again. They said the battery is good. Now what?

 

[flyingscott]

edit

 

[S. S. Lanier]

I'm sorry?

 

[Joe Reeves]

You now have a fully charged battery? If so, what is your present problem?

I read your original problem and it appears that the only cause of your no starting engine was a low battery that would only make the starter solenoid click... and that has been corrected.

 

[S. S. Lanier]

Yes sir, the battery is fully charged and it still will not start. It occasionally clicks when you turn the key, but mostly not.

 

[Joe Reeves]

I'm assuming from the wording of your above post (it occasionally clicks) that you are confusing the engine "starting" with having the electric starter engaging to be "cranking" the engine over..... so what your problem actually is would be that the starter solenoid is clicking occasionally BUT the electric starter is not cranking the engine over...... Is that about the size of it?
********************
If so, to test the electric starter, have good known battery jumper cables attached to a good known fully charged battery and attach them directly to the electric starter.

If this cranks the engine over as it should, then in all probability you have a loose cables somewhere or a tight but dirty cable connection. If this is the case, you need to clean all of the cable terminal ends and the components they attach to, then tighten then with a wrench or pliers.

If the electric starter does not crank the engine over when you apply the jumpers, then either the battery, the jumpers, or the starter itself is at fault. Unfortunately since we aren't there, you will need to decide which one.
********************

 

[S. S. Lanier]

Yes sir, that's correct. Thank you for your help. We will try that.
​​​​​​

 

[S. S. Lanier]

Mr. Reeves, we did as you suggested and the engine fired right up. We have check and cleaned all connections and the ignition still will not start the motor. Any possibility that the ignition itself has went bad?

 

[flyingscott]

It sounds like the starter solenoid is bad. Did you clean all the connections on that.?

 

[S. S. Lanier]

Yes sir, we actually just put a new one on it on Saturday. My dad thought that may have been what was wrong.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Mr. Reeves, we did as you suggested and the engine fired right up. We have check and cleaned all connections and the ignition still will not start the motor. Any possibility that the ignition itself has went bad?

WHAT?? That's one hellava poor choice of words!

In thinking that over, you probably mean that the engine is now cranking over fast as it should... BUT... is not firing, meaning it has no spark. Now, if this is the case...........

The kill circuit wire on that 1972 model may either be black/yellow or black/white... at any rate it will be absolutely a black wire with a stripe and it will be attached to one of the "M" terminals of the ignition switch... Remove It! Now, check for spark. If you now have spark with that wire removed but no spark with it connected, the ignition switch is faulty in which case, replace it.

NOTE: On those "M" terminals of the ignition switch.... Only the kill circuit wire should be attached to the raised "M" terminal... and just one black wire attached to the other regular "M" terminal that leads to ground. NO other wires are to be attached to those "M" terminals.

Let us know what you find.

 

[flyingscott]

Is there a main fuse on that motor look at that also.

 

[S. S. Lanier]

Lol. I'm sorry. When we jumped the starter it started right up, but trying with the key to start it nothing happened.

 

[S. S. Lanier]

Yes, there's a 20 amp that is fine.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Then... To repeat myself................

If jumping the starter cranks the engine over as it should, then in all probability you have a loose cables somewhere or a tight but dirty cable connection. If this is the case, you need to clean all of the cable terminal ends and the components they attach to, then tighten then with a wrench or pliers.

Then, to add..................

There will be a safety neutral switch either in the control box OR leading from the black wire attached to the 3/8" nut terminals of the starer solenoid that may not be grounding properly.

Pertaining to the starter solenoid, simply follow the ground wire as mentioned to the switch and correct the ground problem.

If within the control box, normally the larger white box, the safety switch is retained with two screws. Loosen them and push the switch closer to the lobe that it engages, then tighten the screws.

That will complete the ground circuit for the electric starter.