Bad dose of water

[Boatdrinks1965]

1986 70 got a major charge of water from defective 6 gal tank. Changed spin on filter and most of the fuel line bulb etc. Purged fuel line at each carb then cleaned out carbs not once but twice. Second time there was no debris or water in carbs. Specifically I sprayed out high speed jet in bowl bottom, small idle pick up tube and jet had good flow of spray and float needle valve and seat. Fuel is going to all 3 carbs and bulb pumps solid. Fuel pump spurts fuel quite a ways when carb line is off and I spin over the engine. Now the problem. Idles decent most of the time but as soon as you drop it in gear it cuts off. I also noticed that if I tilt the motor up it runs longer before cutting off. The only other thing that I did since motor was last ran was replaced the gear cable. Its a dual lever control so throttle cable wasn't touched. I'm thinking I missed something in the carbs but have no idea what. Floats are set level and needle valve and seats were just put in this summer. Pumping the bulb doesn't help either. I siphoned off the fuel out of bad tank before tossing and it was real bad. Probably gallon of water in 3 gallons of gas. Confused and frustrated! Thanks

 

[flyingscott]

You need to do a compression test and change the plugs. What did you do with the gas hopefully you did not use it for the motor again.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

Compression 125 all 3 cylinders and already replaced the plugs. No i didn't put the gas back in fact the tank was disposed of as well.

 

[flyingscott]

Are all the linkages attached and have you done a cylinder drop test. If you haven't get a plastic pliers and pull the spark plug wires off one at a time to make sure they are all working.

 

[F_R]

Water in the fuel usually is not a problem, once you flush it out. A small amount of water will go right through, usually un-noticed. So, I suspect you somehow messed up the carb sync, or maybe you just need to set the idle speed. However, are you positive that water was the original problem? Perhaps something else happened. Sounds like you are on the right track with compression and plugs check, so recheck your carb linkage and cable work.

 

[jakedaawg]

Idles decent most of the time but as soon as you drop it in gear it cuts off. I also noticed that if I tilt the motor up it runs longer before cutting off.

This points to one of two things....

Improperly set/faulty float height or float.

The other possibility is poor fuel charge as it cannot over come the extra exhaust pressure when fully submerged.

Either way, it's most likely in the carbs or carb set up.

I can't remember if you have the low speed idle air bleed needles in those carbs but you could try resetting them if they are present.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

Def not a "little" water. It was real bad. Floats are set level all linkage is just like it was prior to. Motor ran great in late August. Only other thing that changed was the shift cable. All linkage spark advance etc seem to be the same. No idle adjustment screws on these carbs.It actually seems rich to me as I'm seeing fuel spit out the front of the carbs with the airbox off. To recap motor ran fine then sat for 3 months or so. Went to launch it and noticed shift cable had rusted and split the casing so I replaced it. Ran it on the hose and found the water in the portable tank so drained and flushed and it seemed to run fine on a fresh tank till I put it in the water. Carbs been through 3 times now and finding nothing since the first time. All linkage intact (not my first rodeo). Been through carbs several times as I've owned this motor for a long time. No issues with lower unit as it runs in gear fine out of the water so it's all about having a load on it or exhaust back pressure which again it idles fine in the water so I think that rules out the back pressure. Never had one do this and with portable tanks all my life I've gotten water before and it was always a simple fix. Stumped on this one.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

I need to add the carbs have not been soaked. Spray carb cleaner through all the orfices I can reach by just removing the bowl. Always worked in the past.

 

[F_R]

I realize what you are saying about a lot of water. My point was that after flushing it out it should not have been a problem any longer. Certainly not enough to require cleaning the carburetors 3 times. You probably could have fixed it by not taking the carburetors apart at all. I've gotten submerged motors running many tomes by simply draining and flushing. Low idle RPM is the usual cause of running out of the water but not in the water. The low rpm could be from the work you did (linkage adjustments, sync, controls). OR there may be serious engine damage not related to the water at all. Let's hope not. Your compression seems to say not, anyway.

BTW, put the air box back on. It affects the intake.

 

[w2much]

You have diagnosed the problem already fuel coming out of the front of the carbs. You tilt the motor and it runs better or longer. I agree with jakedaawg float issue or jets sticking. Disregard the shift cable as it can not affect your idle. Good luck

 

[oldboat1]

reference to some debris in the carbs in your initial post, so guess the maybe had rust or similar along with water. Debris might require more complete carb disassembly to finally remove. Doesn't take much to cause a blockage, unfortunately. Float valve blockage, for example, might explain some of the operating issues you describe.

 

[flyingscott]

How much fuel is spitting out. Some spitting out is normal some fuel puddling in the front of the carbs at an idle is normal. Did you set the floats with the carb upside down. With it upside down the float should be set to level.

 

[oldboat1]

I need to add the carbs have not been soaked. Spray carb cleaner through all the orfices I can reach by just removing the bowl. Always worked in the past.

not to belabor the point -- but sounds like you might not have gotten into the carb far enough to get debris out (or to affect floats one way or the other) -- maybe not recently, at least. It's hard to get clear about history, but at the point you suspect some debris, full disassembly would be appropriate. It sound like you are experienced at this, so might be preaching to the choir...

 

[jakedaawg]

I assume he means he didn't pop the welch plugs. Usually you don't need to. Nothing behind the plugs would affect carb spit back anyway.

 

[oldboat1]

hard to say. seems the jury is still out on carbs, spark test, cylinder drop test. compression is good.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

The spit of fuel appears to be coming from the idle jet so obviously that circuit is clear. Floats were set to level upside down like they're supposed to be. When I went in the carbs the second and third time there appeared to be an ample amount of fuel coming out of each carb as I drained them for removing the bowl. I have never ran into this with contaminated fuel before and I've always used portable tanks so I've had my fair share of it over the years. With that said the tilting of the motor means something. Yes there would be less resistance with it tilted so it may not be float related at all. On the other hand as the motor tilts the pickup would have a higher level of fuel since it's towards the front. Then there is the issue of fuel coming out the exhaust and appearing in the water which would be too much fuel. Thanks for all your input. I think my next step will be to pull it back out of the water and pull the flywheel and make sure everything is in place under there and wave the white flag and take it somewhere. I usually do all my own work but this one is really weird. I just hate the speech of let me sell you a new one and get rid of this antique. I'll post the results if anybody figures it out. Thanks again. Great forum!

 

[jakedaawg]

Open air gap spark test at 7/16"

You seem to be mechanically inclined. We can get though this one. Some carbs spit a little, very little. Usually a rough running one. That can be due to several reasons. You have done a comp check. Let's spark test for real and go from there.

Always go back to the basics! These things aren't complicated if you go step by step

 

[oldboat1]

spitting back through the carb could be reed valves, but would do a simple spark test first, as above.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

Spark test was done old school. Ouch OMC loves their spark and its awkward leaning over exposed flywheel to do it so I did get lit up a couple of times. Reed valves are on my radar but I don't know anything about them but before I discovered the water that's where it went. It seems there was a lot of gunk that came out of the exhaust hub once I got it running on the hose. Need to research those reeds. Not a ton of gas coming out of idle jets but I can't say I recall seeing it before but of course the airbox would conceal it and the back portion of the box actually is molded to lead the fuel to the throat.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

Don't sound like reeds. Keep going back to the fact I have to use primer more than I feel is necessary. When it dies out that's the only way it will restart and I can prolong the run by bumping the key yet I can see the gas going in the throat. I'm missing something in those carbs. Has to be. Going in for trip 4 sometime over the holidays. Air passage somewhere has to be blocked. We all know it only takes a drop of water to screw these things up.