banshee transom and likely stringers

[bakerjw]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Myself, I'm an epoxy fan. It costs more and has it's own issues but it is durable as heck.

I don't believe that epoxy has any wax in it like polyester resin does. Epoxy can have issues with amine blush though which isn't that big of a deal once you learn how to deal with it.

 

[chconger]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

i knew there was a reason to come to this site. now back to the research for prices lol. turns out the epoxy resin i was looking said that wax rises to the top making a hard surface so that in itself tells ma there is wax in it. i guess i should just bite the bullet and get the stuff that tried and true ehh. im my own worst enemy sometimes.

That's not wax, its amine blush. In cool humid conditions you get it with epoxy. Wash off with soap and water and keep going. Or best is to do all the layup in one large blast.

I used 6 gallons of US composites 3 to 1 epoxy this summer and only started to see the blush in September....

Anyhoo...easy to deal with.

Chris

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

the epoxy i was going to get in the 5 gallons has been a non stock item in other words SPECIAL ORDER which in my world (automotive mechanic) means expensive so that idea was out before i even started lol. polyester seems to be the way im heading after well noted comments from all you people and i appreciate each and every one of them. i watched a video about peanut butter and is peanut butter not the same as premixed short strand or long strand fiberglass i can get that stuff pretty cheap and save the costly resin for the fiberglass mat ect.

I can readily get BONDO brand poly resin. Its fairly cheap as well it says on the websites that "BONDO? Fibreglass Resin is the same high-strength polyester resin that is used in boat building". What would be a good way to test this stuff out. Try bonding to boards together and see how it looks after.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

surfacing wax is it necessary and what does it do harden the surface ect. ill try to research it further

 

[bakerjw]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Peanut butter is usually made with cabosil or similar. Cabosil is made with fumed silica which is like the lightest snow you've ever seen. Keep in mind that 1 quart of resin + 1 quart of fumed silica does not equal 2 quarts. what it equals is really thick sticky resin.

Make sure that you don't skimp on the resin. You want the best resins that you can get and not necessarily the cheapest.

Surfacing wax is used on the top coat. It floats to the surface and keeps air out which makes the resin cure completely. Otherwise it will stay tacky for a while.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

ALL Bond-O resin has wax in it. If you buy it retail by the gallon, here in the States, it's about $50 more per 5 gallon pail than the Un-waxed Laminating resin. The problem with Waxed resin is you must do all of your layups "WET" That means each layer of glass fabric must be installed prior to the previous layer having cured. This is not necessarily a bad thing as long as you have the time to do this. In fact it is the preferred method and yields much stronger layups. In reality however there are times when this is not possible. When this occurs and you've used waxed resin you then have to sand the surface really well, wipe it down with acetone and then lay the next layer and even then the bond is not as good as it would be with unwaxed resin. I'd recommend using the unwaxed resin if you can find it for a reasonable price within a reasonable vicinity. NOAH's has it.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

So i went into lowes last night and decided i want to put my eyes and hands on this Araucoply plywood to make sure they indeed had it.Ive been stung by that before drive there when they have 5 or 10 and find out they cant find it or its missing. So i look in the plywood section obviously and cant find it. So i ask someone and she it should be in the plywood area if it is plywood. So she asked her manager who yup come right this way, right into the specialized wood products. First thing i thought was uh oh this is gonna be expensive turns out the stuff is 45 dollars and i can handle that. And MAN is that some beautiful wood i looked a piece over and i saw nothing wrong with it.

i asked about a 5/8 sheet and they thought they could order it but wasn't sure if would be a special order. the salesman asked me what i was building and if another plywood would do the job. So i told him i was going to rebuild my boat. Can ya guess what the next words were outta his mouth lol. Well he told me oh you shouldn't use this stuff you need to go to the marina and get marine plywood and unfortunately we don't sell it. So i said to him i appreciate your recommendation but ive researched this and my good buddy woodonglass says its the best stuff. Should of saw the look on his face he said all the customers that asked for marine grade or comparable we send to the marina. I told him to keep this between him and i till i was done repairing my boat so i wouldn't have to wait for more plywood if they all of sudden started selling it lol

So the fact they didn't have 5/8 and there website doesn't show 5/8 leads me to believe it may not be available. I may have to go with 3/4 for the deck even if i do pour foam or not. I'm thinking overkill but strong if i do. Only dilemma i may run into is if the whole deck isn't rotten and the existing floor is 5/8 i may have to replace the whole thing anyway. I have a ski pole that fastens to the floor the has supports out to each corner. will 5/8 be heavy enough for a pole or would 3/4 be a better choice. i forgot tot mention about the pole when i asked last time.

Sorry to ramble on but this is kinda like a note pad and history timeline. a year or six months from now i can look back and see how green i was lol

Have a good day

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

just got a video today but all my family has posted on it (facebook) and i don't want to put it up without there permission. will have to try posting a different way

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

so its Thursday morning haven't posted here in a bit. been reading and figuring out a materials lists and where the places are to get materials etc. When i get a list more complete ill post it. Woodonglass in your honest opinion and judging from the pics i posted earlier would you think i can do my repairs while the boat is still on the trailer. Ill get better pics of where its supported underneath. The boat should be coming back from the lake this weekend. Only reason im asking is i had a bad dream last might that we were decapitating the boat and it went well then we had to tear the floor out. when we did that the sides were caving in and bottom of the boat was collapsing. So whether it be the boat gods warning me or my subconscious foreseeing potential problems that in all honesty i didn't even think of or consider i took it as a warning and thought better ask the question.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

'Just' the trailer probably won't fully support the hull if you remove the cap.

If time, space & materials prohibit the construction of a cradle to fully support the hull while you work on it, get the trailer tires off the trailer, lower it as much as you can & support it's frame w/ blocks/jack stands. This will make the trailer more stable & move the boat lower to the ground, making it easier to climb in & out of.

Once you start tearing it down & are moving around inside the boat while working, it's even more likely to be moving around more then it did before demo started.

Build a cradle of sorts around the trailer & it's frame that supports the hull, hull sides & maintains the hulls shape as best you can. IMHO, it may not be as a good a support as a cradle but you've got to work with what you can.

Make sure there is not currently a hook in the hull & that you don't glass 1 in:

Since you're Banshee is a go fast boat, there is a chance it's hull has some contours deliberately built into the hull at the transom. You don't want to make any changes to those:

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

if i have a hook how would one go about fixing it . when i had the boat in the water it seem to behave good turned nice and got up on plan relatively quick bow went up then leveled out. i have a video of the boat in the water if was able to post it would you be able to tell if the boat has hook by the way it takes off ect.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Got the boat home yesterday afternoon and started on my journey. Disconnected everything from the motor,rigged up a motor stand and pulled the motor. Its now sitting on an engine stand in the corner. Pulled the heavy duty steel plate off the transom and more or less figured out at least part of the problem with water intrusion.the pics will explain better than i can. The crack in the splashwell area is my concern.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

i need a better camera or more lights there not very good pics. my concern is the crack in splashwell on the starboard side essentially were the edge of the steel plate was. it was covered by silicon so i wouldn't have seen it until the steel plate it came off.

 

[V153]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Vanguard Banshee huh, looks identical to a Glastron GT150. Glastron built boats under different names in several countries, but in Canada at least I thought they were still called Glastrons. Could be wrong. And it's not like other manufacturers wouldn't stoop to copying popular designs. Glastron was constantly suing people back in those days.

Regardless it's a cool boat. First step is to pop the top & get into the floor. That should tell you everything you need to know re stringers & transom. If I remember correctly GT150's don't have a center/keel stringer, just two outboard ones. There's not much to the transom, don't believe it runs the full width or height of the boat. As far as restos go they are one of the easier hulls to do.

When you get the rubrail off & ALL screws/rivets out. The bow'n sides should seperate fairly easily. As was mentioned it'll most likely be 'tabbed' w/some glass across the top of the transom. That should be the only 'hard' attatchment point.

Best of luck with the resto. That hull is a timeless classic, and a movie star ...

 

[V153]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Few more pics: For inspirational purposes ...

 

[V153]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Few more: Hey it might behoove you to check out some'a the GT150 rebuilds over on ClassicGlastron.com and/or CGOAMN.com

 

[V153]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Nobody on the Glastron sites'll give ya a hard time for owning a Banshee. There are worse imitators out there: Here's a recent Chinese version that didn't go very far:

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

i have checked a few restores out but not much out there that i have found. gt-150 is virtually the same boat. we spent the afternoon taking the boat apart and the rub rail was prick with all the rusted screws ended up popping the screws out of the wood without destroying the rail. and had cut some silicone across the back and the top pretty well lofted right off and have it suspended from ceiling. i have a bunch of pic to post and need advice of where to go form here

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

more pics

ok this is before the top came off and i noticed some cracks on the splashwell area and need advice on this part of repair. The third pic shows the crack the best. also the transom goes across the entire back but the side have foam in the voids between the transom and outer skin. do i just copy that design.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

all the sides have foam under the inner fiberglass likely about 1/4 inch or so should i just grind that fiber glass down to good stuff and tab back into and leave the foam alone the foam on the sides doesn't look all that bad.View attachment 213642View attachment 213643View attachment 213644View attachment 213645View attachment 213646