banshee transom and likely stringers

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

ok thanks for the input very nuch appreciated and that dtuff is the little bit cheaper stuff which is even better not that the price difference would have broke the bank lol

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

ok ijust realized you guys suggested two different things im going to assume that 18 biaxial 0/90 is the right stuff

also one more quick question about fiberglass for the fiberglass tape should i use 6 or 9 oz tape they have both availble

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Yep, I did not CHECK JBC!!! He's from West Virginia and since his Mountaineer's beat my Cowboys last week, I guess I'm gunna have to start checking him a bit more carefully!!!! The stuff I posted is the what we call in the states 1808 Biax. It's just a bit heavier than the 1708 but will work just fine for your purposes. You ARE using Polyester Resin Right???

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

yup polyester unwaxed just like you recomended in an earlier post. im planning on getting a 5 galllon pail and a one gallon pail of MEKP METHYL ETHYL KETONE PEROXIDE hardener. this is just a starting point fully realizing i will likely need a fair bit more. when i get a better idea of sizes and measurements of areas im replacing i will make a materials list and you guys can tell me if im missing something or going to light or heavy on the amounts. i have a good idea right now of what i am getting just have figure out an approx amounts of each.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Uhmm you don't need a gallon of MEKP. It can spoil quite quickly. The max mix ratio is 2% MEKP to volume of Resin. You usually mix @ around 1 to 1.5% soooo I'd recommend you only get a Pint or 475 ml for the 5 gallons If my math is correct 5 gallons of resin is approx. 19,000 ml. so 2% would be 380 ml of MEKP needed to catalyze the entire 5 gallons. 475 ml should be plenty since, as I said, a lot of times you want to only use 1.5% to slow down the hardening process and give you more working time. Shelf life for MEKP can be enhanced if you keep it Cool so store it in a cool dark place. It does NOT like sunlight either. Remember you should not be doing Fiberglass work when temps fall below 16 C. There are ways around this so if you find yourself in a situation where you need to glass in the cold, let us know and we can tell you how to do that.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

alrighty then i guess ill have to start with two 225 ml thats the next size down they sell. im doing this project in my buddies garage and he has a wood stove in there. but i thought instead of having to fire that up everytime i would use a space heater and maybe an enclosure around the boat or something over the top of it. that way i can heat just the area that needs to heated and if i find myself later into the night and having to go home before its cure i would put the heater on a timer for a couple hours and have it shut off automatically. this is just a thought i had. its near impossible to keep the garge above 16 or 20 especially since very soon we will be likely hitting the colder weather. And being that he lives 20 minutes away time will be limited to a couple nights a week. But if you have a better plan im all ears.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

I'm more of a busted watch is still right twice a day......

But I did think it was odd that they said they don't care 1708, and do......

As WOG said, 1808 will work, but it does take a bit more resin to wet out, and it costs more.......

WV is having a bit of an odd year, the Md Terapins beat em pretty good......

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

So the listing you posted is 1708 and takes less resin to wet than 1808. So im think 6 of 1 half a dozen of the other. A little more resin with cheaper cloth or less resin with a little more costly cloth. Apparently we do things much different up here in canada. Would have been so much easier to call the stuff all the same name that u guys call it.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

The 1808 w/ mat is $ 0.04 per yard cheaper, but will take more resin then the 1708 I posted.

I don't know if the 90* VS 45* makes any difference, but pretty much, 6, half dozen....

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

how much more resin are we talking. significant amounts or minimal barely noticeable. and i thought i was starting to get a handle on this stuff they call fiberglass lol

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

The total layup of 17.75oz VS 18oz, so not much...

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

so ive decided that because pl premium is cheaper and much more readily available around here i will use this glue my boards together. I also know about pl taking much longer to set and cure this wont be an issue because i wont be working on the boat non stop. a couple days to cure will ok with me.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Sooo you're saying you can't find Titebond III wood glue in Ontario Canada??? I find that very hard to believe.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

no tite bond 3 ultimate wood is availble at noahs (in toronto) and i cant find it anywhere else ive tried lumber store my work ect. Not knowing how much im going to need i thought that if i started with pl and needed more i can zip to the lumber store and pick some up. If i use tite bond and i run out i have to make a trip to toronto. I would rather not have to order stuff as i am saving the cost of shipping Maybe ill just get the one gallon and hope i have enough. 1 gallon is just shy of 4 liters and if i have to glue two 3/4 and one 1/4 inch pieces of plywood for the transom it should be more than enough. but if i have to glue stringers together i dont know if it will be. hopefully tonight im going to get some more deck out of the boat and see what i have for stringers and thickness ect. ultimatly i would pefer to use titebond. ill let you all know what i find when iget some deck out. ill have a better idea when i find this out

thanks again for your input

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

There appears to be 3 Lowe's in Ontario. They carry Elmers Pro Bond MAX Wood Glue. It's basically the same as Titebond III. It is 100% waterproof when it cures. I'd use it.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

sounds good to me i actually saw that stuff the other night when i was looking for tite bond. thank you

NOW oh boy do i have questions for you guys. I was able to remove a third of the deck last night . this is what it looks now no stringers just coffins where they were buried once.

first question is i measured what thickness the stringer appeared to be and i got a inch wide.that's measuring the width of the leftover fiberglass. should i use a sheet of 1/4 and laminate it to a sheet 23/32 (just shy of 3/4) and have an 1/8 inch less than before or go with a sheet of 3/4 and 1/2 and beef it up a little.im also planning on running the o0utside stringers right to the transom instead of stopping. this way i can make the look similar to the pic i posted earlier.

Second question is there seems to be foam under the inner skin of fiberglass especially on the sides above the deck. this foam im sure helps with structure and it isn't waterlogged but the fiberglass has pulled away from it in alot of spots and its not really thick enough to grind down to good glass. and there appears to foam under areas of the stringers which isn't a big deal as im planning on removing it and likely pouring more in. But what i don't know is what do i do about the sides that have foam. if i can help it would rather not disturb this part the foam is stuck to hull really well.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

i kinda found it odd that the stringers didn't go straight to the transom

next step of the game is to get the front structure and ski locker out and remainder of the floor. and that will give me a bigger picture of what there is to redo and how to do it. i was kinda surprised that the deck wasn't rotted farther than it was. i cut it along the outside then right across the width just in front of the ski locker popped a couple prybars under it and lifted it out in one big sheet. will be able to use as a template. the deck wasn't even fiberglassed on the bottom side and i don't think the top of the stringers were fiberglassed either. the factory also just nailed the deck to the stringers with what looks like finishing nails. they sure didn't build the boats so they would last a long time. I guess it was job security and guaranteed repeat sales.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

You are going to cut the old stringer channels out and grind them down flush with the bottom of the hull right???

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

most defiantly im not going thru this task and not doing it right. on the sides of the hull where there's fiberglass over foam is the only area i don't know how to deal with. im not sure what course of action i need to take whether its fiber glass over the foam after removing as much of the old fiberglass or try grinding it and laying glass over existing or leave it alone.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

If the foam is NOT wet, I'd leave it alone