Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

[meat76head]

I want to replace my 1978 Merc 898 engine (Chevy 305). I've had multiple issues over the last year and figure that in almost 30 years this engine has done it's due.<br /><br />I would like to step up to a 350. What are my options?<br /><br />Is it possible to order a 1978 truck (for the similar cam) compatible crate engine (I assume it comes complete) from a GM parts dealer and replace the marine specific externals (alt, starter, carb.. exhaust)?<br /><br />I also need new exhaust manifolds, so I know I'll need to buy those and I figured I'd just re-use the alt, starter and carb off of my current block.<br /><br />I'm mostly looking for reliability and $value here, not horsepower (alpha 1 limits me to 300 or less anyway). What's everyone think?

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

A lot of money for a 70s boat. It'd have to be in special condition to make it worth the $,$$$. Thoroughly inspect the engine mounting structures and transom for rot, and any structural wood. If you find any, move on to a newer boat. A marine cam would be advisable.

 

[meat76head]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

It's a beautiful 1978 Carver 2276 Camper. It was given to me last year by my boss. All told I have only put ~$1000 into the boat and trailer over the last year since I've had it.<br /><br />I plan on keeping the boat for the indefinate future, so a new engine is worth the expense to me.

 

[ron7000]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

http://www.ebasicpower.com/engines/base/350.htm <br /><br />I did the same thing basically, on a 1976 24' boat back in 1993 though with a 351w 285hp ford engine replacing the 1976 233hp. Been super reliable and I can't complain about the value.<br /><br />Biggest thing is make a list of all the little things that the new engine doesn't come with that you'll have to transfer over from the old motor- throttle linkage, shifter plate, motor mounts. With the starter you may want to look at buying a fresh new one for reliability. I kick myself still for spending $200-300 on rebuilding my 1976 starter every other year since that kind was uncommon before finding a brand new one that fit from overtons.com for $149. For alternator I would run a Delco 10si alternator, they are universal, cheap, reliable and easy to wire. I bought my replacement at JCwhitney for $89. The more you can get away from mercruiser specific components the more value there will be.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

For alternator I would run a Delco 10si alternator, they are universal, cheap, reliable and easy to wire. I bought my replacement at JCwhitney for $89.

Can you say BOOM........<br />

<br />That's NOT a Spark Protected Alternator......................... <br /><br />

Is it possible to order a 1978 truck (for the similar cam) compatible crate engine (I assume it comes complete) from a GM parts dealer and replace the marine specific externals (alt, starter, carb.. exhaust)?

Ayuh,............<br /><br />That's what I'd Do..............

 

[Laddies]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

Bondo, a picture is worth a thousand words, I cannot believe the advice that some of these people give on cheap parts for marine use. If one must endanger everone in the areas life for cheap, they have no business with a boat. That is why Coast Guard approval is required by the marine industry

 

[f_inscreenname]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

Originally posted by Laddies:<br /> Bondo, a picture is worth a thousand words, I cannot believe the advice that some of these people give on cheap parts for marine use. If one must endanger everone in the areas life for cheap, they have no business with a boat. That is why Coast Guard approval is required by the marine industry

I don't think the issue was cheap parts but improper parts. There is many things from the auto world you can use in a boat. Starter, Alt, carb and distributor are the main ones that you can not. As for "these people", they are folks doing something most likely because they know no better. It is our job to inform them of there mistake and try to help them correct it. Not talk down to them and quote USCG Reg's.

 

[Laddies]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

What ever your name is, if these people don't know the differance, then they sure as he!! should not give advice that could git someone killed. Any decent marine mechanic knows that many parts from the automotive world are the same, but the advice I read recomended a automotive alternator that is not recommended. Not because of it being the proper replacement but because of it's $89.00 price being CHEAP.

 

[f_inscreenname]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

Again with "these people" If you know so much maybe you should have informed instead of talked down to. I am sure most would be more receptive to your advice. <br />As for "these people giving advice", its a message board. Why do you think they are here? I have received advice from some of the best that this board has to offer over the last 4 or 5 years and guess what? Sometimes they are wrong. I am sure the member that was giving the wrong advice here had the best intentions but that is where the majority will jump in and correct the miss information. Not someone busting there a$$ and saying "they have no business with a boat". <br />PS The name is f_inscreenname! Get it laddie?

 

[Laddies]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

OK, whats his name, I guess you can't tell the differance between giving poor service advise and advice that could get someone hurt or dead. NO SUPRISE. I must apologize to meat76 head for getting his tread off course, but certainly not for my remark on dangerous service practices.<br /><br />Have a nice day whats his name.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

now boys, let us calm down and help meat76head.

 

[meat76head]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

So what about the $value$ side of things?<br /><br />Am I better off going with a GM 350 crate engine, or should I get a re-built marine long block?<br /><br />Either way I would still need to scrounge up the remaining parts I need (new carb, new starter, new alt, dist, exhaust manifolds etc)?<br /><br />Of course with the crate motor I can re-sell the parts I remove (if it's worth it).<br /><br />Is there a good guide out there on how to go about marinizing a crate motor?

 

[whywhyzed]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

I wonder if the stringer drive is available from that exploded boat....

 

[paulrfrancisco]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

I guess the points to take out of here are the following. If you replace the engine with a modern truck block, then you have all the exernal stuff then needs to be figured into completing the assembly.. Manifolds, Risers, Carb, Alt, Water pump. etc.. In addition, items that gernaerate spark or could produce fuel vapors should err on the side of safety and be Coast Guard certified.. therefore "marinized" The other item with respect to the long block selection is (as I was made aware of in another post last week) is the cam shaft that would come with the short or long block is not designed necessarally for the power/torque needs of boating. Maybe one can be special ordered in the SB/LB order when placed... (select a specific make/model/lobe design of the cam to be installed) Bottom line is there's a lot to consider.. maybe getting the existing motor rebuilt is just plain easier...

 

[Laddies]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

meat76head, over the years we have used many automotive long blocks in boats. We have always installed high volume oil pumps in them and not had a single failure, so if you are in a position to buy a rebuilt wholesale or at a reduced price I wouldn't worry about it to much, some rebuilders build a RV engine with a little more power than the standard models you might look in to one of them. Test your manifolds and if they are bad there are several manufacters of after market manifolds out there, most with better value than OEM manifolds

 

[mmainelli]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

First, I'm going to assume you're not a meathead. Second assumption - you're capable of installing a full engine/outdrive. third - you'll want/love this hull for an indefinite period.<br /><br />My recent experience (August 2005) was an original blown 302 (888w/TR1 drive)Mercruiser in my 1976 Wellcraft Nova 210. AND, I loved the hull (teak, deadrise,hi gunwales, etc). I studied long block, short block, completely new propulsion systems, jets, OBs, etc. And I was keenly aware of the downsides in bolting old parts onto new blocks (lottsa stuff there, to include steering, controls, gauges, etc), as I've always run older cars (60s/70s stuff, living in junk yards). After pricing all these options, and considering the risks of old bolt on stuff, I decided on a 2005 Volvo Penta 4.3GXi with VP SX outdrive (single prop). The whole turnkey package (engine/outdrive/transom plate/controls/gauges/prop/key/manuals) cost a flat $10,000. This price was very competitive against any other option I studied. And I have a dashboard with more lights and buzzers than a new Volvo automobile. The injected 4.3 gives 225 hp at the prop. Here, however, I think we depart, as I paid an additional $5,000 for turnkey installation by yard staff, which included re-building the engine stringer mounts. Wanted the job done by Volvo authorized staff, to be done right, expeditiously and with warranty in mind. But I assume you would install. After talking up what I did with other folks, even looking at other boats (all overrated by their owners or agents), I couldn't be happier with my decision. I wait for all the buzzers to stop, turn the key, and that V-6 jumps to life. My 210 (4,000 lbs) tops at 47 mph (WOT) with a 3 x 15 x 17 wheel (drive is 1.79:1). I'm going to try a 4 x 15 x 16 wheel this spring, as I've read that it will perform like a 17P 3 blade, but will handle something like a duo-prop (that was $1,500 more), from the hole, mid-range, directionally, in reverse, smoothness, etc. Of course, we'll see. Think new installation. It's great for the mind! No more old crap. Your current thinking is headaches, mucho labor, tools, and you'll be asking everyone for advice along the way, and you'll hemmoraghe your wallet all along the way also. The marine environment is just too too harsh .

 

[mmainelli]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

First, I'm going to assume you're not a meathead. Second assumption - you're capable of installing a full engine/outdrive. third - you'll want/love this hull for an indefinite period.<br /><br />My recent experience (August 2005) was an original blown 302 (888w/TR1 drive)Mercruiser in my 1976 Wellcraft Nova 210. AND, I loved the hull (teak, deadrise,hi gunwales, etc). I studied long block, short block, completely new propulsion systems, jets, OBs, etc. And I was keenly aware of the downsides in bolting old parts onto new blocks (lottsa stuff there, to include steering, controls, gauges, etc), as I've always run older cars (60s/70s stuff, living in junk yards). After pricing all these options, and considering the risks of old bolt on stuff, I decided on a 2005 Volvo Penta 4.3GXi with VP SX outdrive (single prop). The whole turnkey package (engine/outdrive/transom plate/controls/gauges/prop/key/manuals) cost a flat $10,000. This price was very competitive against any other option I studied. And I have a dashboard with more lights and buzzers than a new Volvo automobile. The injected 4.3 gives 225 hp at the prop. Here, however, I think we depart, as I paid an additional $5,000 for turnkey installation by yard staff, which included re-building the engine stringer mounts. Wanted the job done by Volvo authorized staff, to be done right, expeditiously and with warranty in mind. But I assume you would install. After talking up what I did with other folks, even looking at other boats (all overrated by their owners or agents), I couldn't be happier with my decision. I wait for all the buzzers to stop, turn the key, and that V-6 jumps to life. My 210 (4,000 lbs) tops at 47 mph (WOT) with a 3 x 15 x 17 wheel (drive is 1.79:1). I'm going to try a 4 x 15 x 16 wheel this spring, as I've read that it will perform like a 17P 3 blade, but will handle something like a duo-prop (that was $1,500 more), from the hole, mid-range, directionally, in reverse, smoothness, etc. Of course, we'll see. Think new installation. It's great for the mind! No more old crap. Your current thinking is headaches, mucho labor, tools, and you'll be asking everyone for advice along the way, and you'll hemmoraghe your wallet all along the way also. The marine environment is just too too harsh .

 

[ron7000]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

God forbid you don't use the word "marinized" in front of every part.<br /><br />http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2005072/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2005072/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearc hGroup?Ntt=marine%20alternator

 

[JIm Cook]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

Bondo. What movie is that boat explosion picture<br />from? It looks familiar.

 

[Don S]

Re: Best replacement for 1978 Merc 898

ron7000, I doubt anyone here expects JC Whitney to be selling "Marine" parts. Especially newbe's here with there first boat which is usually old and broken,and the only thing they can afford so they can get out on the water. They also don't know there is a difference between marine and automotive on some parts, and don't even know enough about it to ask because they don't realize there is a difference. So, if you send someone to JC Whitney for an alternator, at least say it's a marine alternator from JCW, or give them a link like you just posted. It prevents a lot of confusion.