lckstckn2smknbrls
Lieutenant Junior Grade
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2008
- Messages
- 1,114
How important is the beveling of the bottom edge of the flooring? Is it necessary to bevel the edge of the new plywood floor?
I loosened the plate on the circular saw and placed it on the old floor to get the angle, it's cut at 45 degrees. I'm reasonable sure it's the original floor from 1968 as there is only one rivet hole in each rib.Basically what I did was loosen the guard on the jigsaw. Set it to a 15 degree and locked it down.
If using a router cut slow plywood has a tendancy to chip when cutting with a router.
My dad does a lot of wood work and has some great tools. Using the router would work but I'm thinking I can do it with the circular saw and a little clean up with the belt sander. In the very tight cut outs for the ribs I can use a rasp to get the bevel.Yep even when running the 'correct' direction along the outside edge..
From elsewhere:
It's a good idea to take several shallow passes rather than try to get it done in a single pass. This will help give cleaner cut. What 'shallow' means kind of depends on what the profile and thickness is, but start with about 1/16" and increase from there. Use a carbide bit rather than a cheaper high speed steel one. Make sure that you understand where the bearing of the bit will be riding, especially if you are profiling both sides. You should test all of these by working on the scrap edges of the sheet (or other scrap of the same material) before you cut it to final size. Secure the sheet with multiple clamps if at all possible. This is for safety and it will also give you more control and a better quality cut. The direction that you move the router when working is important. If you are working on the outside edge of a plywood sheet with a handheld router the correct direction is counterclockwise- start on the left and cut only towards the right. This keeps the cutter rotating against the wood- you will actually have to push the router where you want it to go. If the router is pulling you along, you are making a climb cut which is useful in some situations but not really recommended for beginners because much more effort is required to maintain control of the router.
If you are doing a 45* bevel right to the top side of the plywood's edge, it may be difficult to route easily w/ a handheld router. Unless you clamp a straight edge along the plywood & pass the router base along it, rather then the bit or guide/roller bearing along the edge of the plywood.
Can it be done w a circular saw probably on the stern pieces but it really isnt the proper tool for the job especially towards the bow as the curve gets steeper. I wouldnt even attempt it at the bow. If u do makes sure it is one heck of a saw i wouldnt do it all unless i were using a worm drive saw. I actually did use a circular saw for the first piece but the angles change rapidly and its impossible to do that w a circular saw and not earn the nickname stumpy