Beveling the floor?

lckstckn2smknbrls

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How important is the beveling of the bottom edge of the flooring? Is it necessary to bevel the edge of the new plywood floor?
 

GA_Boater

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Re: Beveling the floor?

The bevel is only toward the bow where the taper begins. If it's not beveled the floor sits high.
 

lckstckn2smknbrls

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Re: Beveling the floor?

I knew the bow floor piece was going to need the beveled. The old rear section is fully beveled along both edges. I don't think I'd have to much trouble making the bevel with my belt sander if I have to?
 

GA_Boater

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Re: Beveling the floor?

I didn't bevel or need to bevel the rear sections, only the tapered bow sections. If I was beveling the rear I would use my circular saw. In fact, I used the circ. saw on the straighter part of the bow chunks and a jig saw on the curved parts like the rib notches.
 

lckstckn2smknbrls

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Re: Beveling the floor?

I thought about the circular saw but I'm not sure I can cut the angle. I did a test piece with the belt sander and it went very well. I'm doing the main cutting with a jig saw and cleaning up the edge and the cutouts for the ribs with an oscillating drum sander.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Beveling the floor?

Basically what I did was loosen the guard on the jigsaw. Set it to a 15 degree and locked it down.
 

lckstckn2smknbrls

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Re: Beveling the floor?

Basically what I did was loosen the guard on the jigsaw. Set it to a 15 degree and locked it down.
I loosened the plate on the circular saw and placed it on the old floor to get the angle, it's cut at 45 degrees. I'm reasonable sure it's the original floor from 1968 as there is only one rivet hole in each rib.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Beveling the floor?

I considered that route by my circular saw really doesn't like cutting curves right or wrong next time I am just buying a bevel bit and using the router.
 

lckstckn2smknbrls

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Re: Beveling the floor?

My dad has a router. I think a bevel bit would make a good fathers day gift.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Beveling the floor?

If using a router cut slow plywood has a tendancy to chip when cutting with a router.
 

ctswf

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Re: Beveling the floor?

I can't find a bit to fit my linksys..bad joke

just set the jigsaw worked fine in my case
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Beveling the floor?

If using a router cut slow plywood has a tendancy to chip when cutting with a router.

Yep even when running the 'correct' direction along the outside edge..

From elsewhere:
It's a good idea to take several shallow passes rather than try to get it done in a single pass. This will help give cleaner cut. What 'shallow' means kind of depends on what the profile and thickness is, but start with about 1/16" and increase from there. Use a carbide bit rather than a cheaper high speed steel one. Make sure that you understand where the bearing of the bit will be riding, especially if you are profiling both sides. You should test all of these by working on the scrap edges of the sheet (or other scrap of the same material) before you cut it to final size. Secure the sheet with multiple clamps if at all possible. This is for safety and it will also give you more control and a better quality cut. The direction that you move the router when working is important. If you are working on the outside edge of a plywood sheet with a handheld router the correct direction is counterclockwise- start on the left and cut only towards the right. This keeps the cutter rotating against the wood- you will actually have to push the router where you want it to go. If the router is pulling you along, you are making a climb cut which is useful in some situations but not really recommended for beginners because much more effort is required to maintain control of the router.

If you are doing a 45* bevel right to the top side of the plywood's edge, it may be difficult to route easily w/ a handheld router. Unless you clamp a straight edge along the plywood & pass the router base along it, rather then the bit or guide/roller bearing along the edge of the plywood.
 

lckstckn2smknbrls

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Re: Beveling the floor?

Yep even when running the 'correct' direction along the outside edge..

From elsewhere:
It's a good idea to take several shallow passes rather than try to get it done in a single pass. This will help give cleaner cut. What 'shallow' means kind of depends on what the profile and thickness is, but start with about 1/16" and increase from there. Use a carbide bit rather than a cheaper high speed steel one. Make sure that you understand where the bearing of the bit will be riding, especially if you are profiling both sides. You should test all of these by working on the scrap edges of the sheet (or other scrap of the same material) before you cut it to final size. Secure the sheet with multiple clamps if at all possible. This is for safety and it will also give you more control and a better quality cut. The direction that you move the router when working is important. If you are working on the outside edge of a plywood sheet with a handheld router the correct direction is counterclockwise- start on the left and cut only towards the right. This keeps the cutter rotating against the wood- you will actually have to push the router where you want it to go. If the router is pulling you along, you are making a climb cut which is useful in some situations but not really recommended for beginners because much more effort is required to maintain control of the router.

If you are doing a 45* bevel right to the top side of the plywood's edge, it may be difficult to route easily w/ a handheld router. Unless you clamp a straight edge along the plywood & pass the router base along it, rather then the bit or guide/roller bearing along the edge of the plywood.
My dad does a lot of wood work and has some great tools. Using the router would work but I'm thinking I can do it with the circular saw and a little clean up with the belt sander. In the very tight cut outs for the ribs I can use a rasp to get the bevel.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Beveling the floor?

Can it be done w a circular saw probably on the stern pieces but it really isnt the proper tool for the job especially towards the bow as the curve gets steeper. I wouldnt even attempt it at the bow. If u do makes sure it is one heck of a saw i wouldnt do it all unless i were using a worm drive saw. I actually did use a circular saw for the first piece but the angles change rapidly and its impossible to do that w a circular saw and not earn the nickname stumpy
 

InMotion

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Re: Beveling the floor?

Can it be done w a circular saw probably on the stern pieces but it really isnt the proper tool for the job especially towards the bow as the curve gets steeper. I wouldnt even attempt it at the bow. If u do makes sure it is one heck of a saw i wouldnt do it all unless i were using a worm drive saw. I actually did use a circular saw for the first piece but the angles change rapidly and its impossible to do that w a circular saw and not earn the nickname stumpy

Best to use a jig saw.... a decent one is $60-$80. You'll find all sorts of uses for it... I use it all the time for just about everything around the house and for boat building. Makes the job A LOT easier! You can often find them used on craigslist etc for cheaper than that.

J.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Beveling the floor?

I guess I am weird I have an old Black and Decker jigsaw, I bought it at a pawnshop 5 years ago for $10 but I certainly cant complain it cut the floor and numerous other things throughout the years. Jigsaw is the way to go on this one.
 
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