Bilge full of oil

[R055]

Thanks guys I'll check out what's leaking when I have some time and is sunny, suppose to rain next couple of days

 

[Newbie@boats]

Did you have to remove the engine to change the timing cover?

No I did not, I removed the crank pully, jacked up the motor slightly, and removed the motor mount.

Removed the oil cover, cut the oil pan gasket, applied "the right stuff" for a new gasket, used the supplied gasket for the cover-reinstalled everything, been on the lake 5 times this season so far and not a hint of a leak knock on wood.

The RIGHT way is to YES pull the engine but if you do a search you'll see many people do it the same way I did without issue.

 

[R055]

No I did not, I removed the crank pully, jacked up the motor slightly, and removed the motor mount.

Removed the oil cover, cut the oil pan gasket, applied "the right stuff" for a new gasket, used the supplied gasket for the cover-reinstalled everything, been on the lake 5 times this season so far and not a hint of a leak knock on wood.

The RIGHT way is to YES pull the engine but if you do a search you'll see many people do it the same way I did without issue.

Thanks ill most likely do it the "right way" assuming I can find a place to pull the motor.

For your method did you have to disconnect the motor from outdrive?

 

[Newbie@boats]

You will have to remove the outdrive yes

 

[R055]

No Title

Update: did the crappy fix today. Didn't have enough time/ couldn't find an easy way to lift the engine out and couldn't drop the oil pan inside the boat like I thought I would so did the quick fix.

The old cover was also done the quick way except they did it way worse and applied the Silicon really crappy and cut almost the whole inside tab.

I'm going to do the real fix this fall when I do an engine overhaul.

Here is a pic of old cover.

 

[Grub54891]

I'm confused.... If the cover is off why the heck did you not have it done correctly. I get it sort of, time and money. But now it'll have to be done twice. Our shop would not have even tried to patch that.

 

[R055]

I'm confused.... If the cover is off why the heck did you not have it done correctly. I get it sort of, time and money. But now it'll have to be done twice. Our shop would not have even tried to patch that.

Because to put it on correctly you have to drop the oil pan, we thought we would be able to drop the oil pan in the boat but that didn't work out.

 

[R055]

Update #2: timing cover started leaking out the side a couple minutes after starting it.

Room everything off again and getting the oil pan off right now. Got all the screws out except those 2 deep ones in the back. Don't have any easy way to lift engine so going to try to drop the pan inside the boat. Anyone got any tips for dropping the 2 deep screws in the oil pan?

 

[bruceb58]

I did what you are doing and I would never do it again. Lift the engine out. It is almost impossible to get the gasket on right.

You are going to have to lift the engine somewhat anyway to get the pan to clear the oil pump pickup.

 

[R055]

I did what you are doing and I would never do it again. Lift the engine out. It is almost impossible to get the gasket on right.

You are going to have to lift the engine somewhat anyway to get the pan to clear the oil pump pickup.

For the gasket I'll use the permatex aviation make a gasket for it to stick good to the pan for installing, I also check and think the pan should have enough room to clear the oil pickup pump.

My biggest problem right now is getting those 2 bolts in the back that are like 8 inches deep and have a half inch hole you gotta stick the socket extension into.

 

[R055]

Update just incase anyone is interested:
I was able to get the oil pan off inside the boat without lifting the engine or anything. Got a new oil pan gasket on it and new timing cover. I installed the timing cover and then installed the oil pan with new gasket. Everything went on good and I will be putting in the oil today to test on muffs for no leak.

The hardest thing for me was taking off and installing the 2 back oil pan bolts because of how deep they're in there and I had to use 4 small socket extensions.

If I had to do this again, I would probably do it again without removing the engine from the boat but that is because it wasn't that hard taking the oil pan off and putting it back on.

 

[NHGuy]

Hey, don't skip those little metal strips that go along the pan rail. They keep you from distorting the pan where the bolts go through. They are a pain but you can start with a center bolt and work your way to the edges. And put a dab of silicone or Mercruiser perfect seal where the pan gasket meets the timing cover gasket.

 

[R055]

Hey, don't skip those little metal strips that go along the pan rail. They keep you from distorting the pan where the bolts go through. They are a pain but you can start with a center bolt and work your way to the edges. And put a dab of silicone or Mercruiser perfect seal where the pan gasket meets the timing cover gasket.

Yup I started the boat today and realized I didn't put enough rtv sealer where the oil pan meets the timing cover, so I removed the bolts off the timing cover and moved the top away while keeping bottom in place and put the rtv sealer in there where it leaked. Closed up the timing cover and will start the boat tomorrow, gotta let that rtv sealer cure 24hours.

 

[bruceb58]

Did you put any in the corners in the back of the engine where the curve and the flats meet?

Hopefully, you used a torque wrench on the bolts. Very easy to distort a pan.

 

[R055]

Did you put any in the corners in the back of the engine where the curve and the flats meet?

Hopefully, you used a torque wrench on the bolts. Very easy to distort a pan.

I used a torque wrench. And I put some in the back on the curve and a little past the curve, I basically took the oil pan gasket and put the Silicon where it was on the old one. Just didn't put enough in the front where the black, oil pan, and timing cover meets. I applied it with my finger instead of putting a bead sadly.

If it leaks when I test it today I think I'll be pulling the engine.

 

[bruceb58]

I basically took the oil pan gasket and put the Silicon where it was on the old one.

Curious what you used. Hopefully it wasn't Silicon like something you buy at Home Depot.

 

[R055]

Curious what you used. Hopefully it wasn't Silicon like something you buy at Home Depot.

Haha no it was permatex ultra black I was just too lazy to write it out.

Guys I think my problem is I've been running the boat at a decline, it now only leaks at the bottom of the U of the timing cover part the oil pan gasket.

In thinking that because the motor is at the decline, the oil is sitting Partially in the timing cover and that's why it's leaking is my theory.

I'm going to level the boat tomorrow and see if it still leaks.

 

[Grub54891]

^^ That won't help.^^ The leak will show up regardless of the angle of the motor. The oil splashes all through the inside, under pressure/vacuum as it runs.

 

[bruceb58]

Agreed...it needs to not leak at any angle.

 

[R055]

Oh **** then. Could it be that the dorman timing covers are crap? I did everything correctly the second time when I dropped the oil pan. My neighbor suggested getting the oem gm timing cover.