bilge pump questions

bones774

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
328
I have 2 battery setup with a Perko battery switch and a on/off dashboard switch connected thru a float switch. If I turn my perko switch off the bilge will not turn on, if i turn the Perko on I would have to put my dash switch to on position and also have a red indicator light showing all the time, draining my battery. Is this wired wrong? I'm sure I could hot wire the bilge thru the float switch but shouldn't that already be the inherent design? I could also disconnect the red light but i might not recognize the bilge being on. or am i missing something here?
I would expect a Cobalt boat to have the bases covered.
 

redjmp

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
536
Re: bilge pump questions

Well the float switch should be wired directly to the battery (with an inline fuse and an optional switch or disconnect) . It should work independently from the manual switch at the helm. And should always be able to work whether or not the battery and starting system have been locked out.
 

kmarine

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
591
Re: bilge pump questions

Most boats are wired that the automatic switch is direct wired to to one battery. the dash board swith is a manual overide to pump out excess water below switch level. I would get a multimeter or test light and trace wires. You may have a defective float switch. A blown fuse or broken/detached wire even corrosion issues are common as components are often submurged. It could be someone changed or added the switch before. good luck
 

bones774

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
328
Re: bilge pump questions

I'm pretty sure the Perko switch was added as an aftermarket accessory.
 

fish_on_the_deck

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2010
Messages
94
Re: bilge pump questions

sounds like your float switch is wired in series with a SPST lighted switch. meaning if you want the float switch to work you have to have the little indicator light on.

I'd cut the wire from the switch to the float switch, and re-attach along with a second wire with an inline fuse, to the battery positive. this will alow the manual overide mentioend above, and constant protection via the float switch. get nice heat shrinkable connectors and even extra heat shrink over those for this bilge area wiring.

Also this will keep the light from being on constantly while on "automatic"
 
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