Blue Fin Spectrum complete restoration

Blue Fin Spectrum complete restoration

  • Gluvit

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Something else

    Votes: 3 100.0%

  • Total voters
    3

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,111
The INSIDE transom skin is what needs to come off.

Look around theres lots of good info available @ iboats. Helps keep the trailer 1st and boat 2nd, not boat infront of the trailer.
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
123
Well this is only my 1st complete restoration, so have patience w me!!:)
I checked the other holes in the transom and those show bad wood too, so I guess I might have to change it before the final coat:(
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
Replacing the transom is a pretty straight forward deal. There is a link to my Starcraft transom repair in my sig line. Check it out if you like, and do some searches on iboats. Lots of people here have done it, and are glad they did.
 
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xmxaxrxtxyx

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
123
No Title

Ok so here is the finished paint job and the new decals!!:) the lighting is bad in my shop:(
 

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jbcurt00

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I wouldnt want to be crawling in and out of a boat thats been finished painted during the rest of the build, so since transom still needs to be done, yeah, no paint on splashwell yet
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
123
Lol yea I'm gonna cover up the finished paint. I had to do the paint 1st cause I was afraid the boat would be too heavy to put back on the trailer after its done:/
 

JStrom

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 11, 2012
Messages
31
Love this. I especially like your description of the paint and how much/how applied. I wish you'd mentioned more (or did I simply miss it?) about the prep prior to paint application though. I've read about a couple of etching primers and ZC application on aluminum before paint should be applied, so ...? My 14 foot Larson/Crestliner is almost stripped inside and I'm about to start stripping the old paint from the top and bottom. I'm also hoping to get my 35 hp Evinrude out of the shop tomorrow and pick up the new (to me) console and steering. I'm going from a tiller to console, if everything works how I want. Pray, pray, pray.
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
123
Well really all I did before applying the paint is, I sanded it, then washed the whole surface with soap and hot water. I know it's not the professional way but it worked great for me!!
But I also painted over the old coat, so that would maybe make a difference?
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
123
Well today we checked out the transom and found that it's not near as bad as I figured, so we're just gonna seal the holes and continue:)
Have rough cut most of the floor, and installed the flotation foam.
Tomorrow I will apply 1 more coat of Gluvit on the entire front end of the hull before I cover it up.
Have to order carpeting and sheet metal screws so I can continue
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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25,111
I'd suggest wide flange rivets and not screws. Definitely not screws unless they are stainless or aluminum.

Aluminim rivet w aluminum shanks
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
123
Why not screws?
I have 2 aluminum braces about 3/4 the length of the boat 21" apart, then on the sides I have about 8' of braces. Was just gonna put 3M 5200 on then screw into the ribs and braces?
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,111
2 stringers run fore and aft (front to back) across the ribs down the middle of the boat.

The deck (Floor) is attched to both stringers and the ends of the ribs.

Rivets will hold the deck down and continue to hold it down if they ever become loose. Screws could become loose over time.

If you haven't taken the time to look thru some of the other tin boat builds posted here, you should. Theres a lot of helpful info to be found, if you look around.
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
123
2 stringers run fore and aft (front to back) across the ribs down the middle of the boat.

The deck (Floor) is attched to both stringers and the ends of the ribs.

Rivets will hold the deck down and continue to hold it down if they ever become loose. Screws could become loose over time.

If you haven't taken the time to look thru some of the other tin boat builds posted here, you should. Theres a lot of helpful info to be found, if you look around.

So what exactly am I looking for in a rivet? I will have prob 5/8" through the wood and into the ribs. I have never used or seen how a rivet works so I have no idea:(
Also what is a good rivet gun to go w it?
 
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