Boat restoration 1989 Charger 1850

[Baylinerchuck]

I think the lumber you are referring to not only reinforces the keel, but also provides a more flat area for the ski locker and support for the fuel tank. I took most of that wood out, but replaced it with a CPVC pipe that I bedded in PB, then glasses in. I incorporated the CPVC pipe into my drainage strategy.

So you do need to put something back in the keel to strengthen it.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I also used dimensional lumber for the motor mounts in my Chap. Mine was 2x6 lumber. I also improved mine some by building them up to the original dimensions with plywood. I used PL to glue each layer and secured with screws.

I used a scissors jack to hold them in place until the PB fully cured.

 

[ChargerMan1]

Ok cool thanks for the advice. Question. Could I do everything with chopstrand or do I also need to use 1708 as well. Thats hard to find d that delivers in a reasonable time

 

[Baylinerchuck]

CSM is just really hard to form into places and build any kind of thickness. 1708 is much more forgiving and the biax is extremely strong.

so the short answer is yes you could, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

 

[ChargerMan1]

Ok that makes sense. When you are putting your sringers and bulkheads in. Do you cut the steingwrs or bulkheads? I have a bulkhead that goes from one side to the other. So do I cut that allow the stringers to go through as long as possible or does it matter if I just cut the strings at the bulkheads and PB them together

 

[Baylinerchuck]

You could do what I did and notch the stringer and bulkhead, (cross member), where they intersect. The pictures I sent illustrate what I mean. This way the stringers and cross members are joined as one integral unit. It’s more important that the stringers travel from bow to stern as a solid piece of wood, even if you have to sister plywood together to get the length you need.

 

[ChargerMan1]

All done. Whats better than fiberglass? Green duct tape of course! That will work right? Lol

 

[Chris51280]

Mine were all split at the bulkheads. Motor mounds got 2 layers of 1708. I did it while still wet. took less resin and creates a stronger bond

 

[ChargerMan1]

What Is a good expanding foam that I can use once I get my deck on and need to foam it? Also I'm not putting a ski locker in the middle floor. I'm going to have the storage in the seats I make on the deck. So when I foam the baot can I fill that area with foam? Or leave it empty because of drainage?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

What Is a good expanding foam that I can use once I get my deck on and need to foam it? Also I'm not putting a ski locker in the middle floor. I'm going to have the storage in the seats I make on the deck. So when I foam the baot can I fill that area with foam? Or leave it empty because of drainage?

More storage is always better. I did not install a ski locker in my Chap when I restored her. But I did keep that center cavity open and put a hatch in for my anchor. I also store my oars, which is a Maryland requirement to have on board.

I have never found a better price on foam than US Composites out of Florida. Even after shipping. Their kits and instructions were really helpful. Most folks use the 2lb foam kits, I used the 4lb kits in my project since I needed to add some structure and reinforcement to the hull since I am using a wobble roller trailer. Wherever you decide to get the foam, just make sure it’s a closed cell type so it does not absorb water easily.