Is there anything special about the new style Bravo U-Joints (See pic below)? It's had to understand why they sell for $250 retail and the older style sells for around $75. I am assuming that the price is not for a pair of u-joints, but only one. Is that a correct assumption?
After I did what Alldodge recommended, and gimbal bearing proved to be smooth. I'd take U-joints apart and inspect. It is easy if you have OD stand and a few tools. Or, lay OD on a good strong bench. Be sure to mark which side (cup) goes back to yoke. They might develop wear patterns. I like using heavy c-clamps and lube to press them back into service. I have experienced truck u-joints getting grease ONLY on one side. Yours might be defective in that manner. I now prefer sealed u-joints. Most likely an auto parts store can match your exact u-joint and save you big bucks.
They will have to "mic" the dimensions if you can't find a # on them. I replaced an Alpha's joint years ago with an auto parts joint. It worked fine and save me big $$$.
Or, buy from Iboats. They are reasonable $$ and can match up items quicker than an auto parts store. Maybe new bravos are all SS or special designs? I doubt it! One of my Bravos' shaft, I discovered, is actually a cannibalized part from an Alpha. ( I bought used boat) I also have gimbal bearings ( spares) that require maintenance grease. Their parts numbers crossed referenced to Bravo 1s. Someone on this forum mentioned that new gimbal bearings are also sealed and no longer require grease. I can speak from decades of truck usage that the sealed stuff seems to last longer, regardless if I constantly maintained them. For decades, I deer hunted hundreds of miles away from my home in Alabama's mud and clay. The sealed stuff lasts longer. If my u-joints or Gimbal bearings were bad, Id try to go back with sealed stuff. Good luck and pray that your problem is not spline/coupler related. I just replaced a coupler
