Bravo 3 shift delay into fwd...

MightyEsquilax

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 15, 2012
Messages
32
I've got a 1996 Bravo 3 with a 7.4. I replaced the lower shift cable this season because the shielding was chewed up from an improper installation. I performed all the cable adjustments using the proper Mercruiser adjustment tools. Up until today the boat has always shifted reliably into fwd and rev with no issues.

The symptom I'm seeing is clean shifting into rev with no hesitation but a 2-4 second delay upon putting the shifter into fwd detent. If I put a little throttle on during the 2-4 delay she'll get into gear quicker but with a thump...

I ran the boat on muffs in the driveway and interestingly enough I get no noticeable delay shifting into fwd gear. The fluid level is fine but I'll drain it just in case to check for any thing burnt or broke. I will double check the cable adjustments again also. I don't see any other performance issues other than the delayed fwd shift.

I've read a couple of things on the forum that indicate it could be a "bent shift fork" or "cone clutch". Any place else I should look for a problem? If it is a shift fork or cone clutch am I better replacing the upper gear box or do I dare dive into the existing and try replacing myself?
 

mr300z87

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
694
I had a similar situation with an older Bravo 2. If what I was told was true the cone clutch is getting warn and needs to be replaced. I ended up swapping to a used newer stytle Bravo 1 and sold the Bravo 2. Apparently replacing the cone clutch is not a cheap fix and would have cost more than the boat was worth. However do check all the shift cable adjustments. Also i am no expert just a shade tree mechanic sharing my experiences. Good luck.
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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42,591
It may e the cone clutch, but recheck your adjustments first. Make sure you have 3 inches between lower pivot pin and upper shift cable. Make sure its in the center of the throttle movement
 

Fun Times

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May 16, 2009
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9,124
If it is a shift fork or cone clutch am I better replacing the upper gear box or do I dare dive into the existing and try replacing myself?
If you go into this yourself with a service manual, some youtube videos and online reading that helps a lot with all this.... Then you'll also want to try removing the rear/back upper unit cover to inspect, clean replace if needed the shifting dent spring/ball assembly as that area could have an effect on shifting too... Item number 4, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/30966/952/80

Also try a few searches here or online "Mercruiser bravo gear lapping compound" as performing a clean up to the contacting parts in question may help/buy you a good amount of time before needing new parts just yet/if ever.
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...aging-forward-gear-help?p=6581733#post6581733
 

MightyEsquilax

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
32
FUNTIMES and AllDodge many thanks for the advice. I drained the fluid tonight and it was clean. I didn't expect that to be the problem but it's quick and cheap. I definitely have done the lower shift cable adjustment using the cable locator tool and 91-17262 barrel tool a few times in the past when I replaced bellows and cables so I'm positive I performed that step. What bothers me is I can't find my 91-12427 tool to check/adjust the control cable backlash. I just ordered a new tool tonight and I'll keep the post informed to my findings. I was almost sure I checked the backlash...but I might be confusing this with my old Alpha drive (old boat)... That might be why I can't find the tool...because I might not have owned it :).

One last question...I know I'm supposed to adjust the lower shift cable with the cabe locating tool when the outdrive is off. But...can I verify/adjust the lower shift cable with the 91-17262 barrel tool when the outdrive is installed?
 

alldodge

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can I verify/adjust the lower shift cable with the 91-17262 barrel tool when the outdrive is installed?

Possibly, but unable to say for sure because I have not tried it that way, but in most cases it should be in the same position.

have adjusted the cable without the tool by feel on a hose. Insure you have the 3 inch dimension from pivot pin to where cable attaches, then start the motor. Slide the barrel nut off and move cable FWD/REV noting where the center of movement is. Rotate barrel nut to center position and slide back in place.

The new cables have a barrel nut which is pined in the correct position, so just install and go.
 
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