Bravo one Transom Assembly hole

[WellcraftSportsman23]

Before I start, the boat is a 1985 Wellcraft that is getting heavy in the water. I know the right fix is a new transom and assembly but I am not spending $7 - 10 K on a boat that is worth $3000 tops. Here is my question:
So I noticed a hole in my Bravo one Transom Assembly as I was getting her ready to go in. When I bought the boat, the previous owner disconnected the Mercathode system and it created a nasty hole. I change the Zincs every year, however never noticed the disconnected system.

I did some research and saw what JR Marine did with creating a window for the steering arm replacement. I have cleaned the aluminum up and had a cover cut. I was thinking of using 4200 to adhere it, so should I tap screws into the 4 corners? I would have to use stainless steel ones but I am afraid with the dissimilar metals. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[04fxdwgi25]

If I were doing what you are doing, I would download the JM kit template and drill them where they do. They use the S/S screws, but the high quality ones, thinking 316 S/S, not the 308.

I did that kit on my B3 and have had zero problems with it.

PS: Since you are working it all, I would go the extra step and rebuild that steering pin with a S/S one and replace the bushings and seals, since it's all been exposed to the salt, especially if there is and gimbal play.

 

[alldodge]

Before I start, the boat is a 1985 Wellcraft that is getting heavy in the water. I know the right fix is a new transom and assembly but I am not spending $7 - 10 K on a boat that is worth $3000 tops. Here is my question:
So I noticed a hole in my Bravo one Transom Assembly as I was getting her ready to go in. When I bought the boat, the previous owner disconnected the Mercathode system and it created a nasty hole. I change the Zincs every year, however never noticed the disconnected system.

I did some research and saw what JR Marine did with creating a window for the steering arm replacement. I have cleaned the aluminum up and had a cover cut. I was thinking of using 4200 to adhere it, so should I tap screws into the 4 corners? I would have to use stainless steel ones but I am afraid with the dissimilar metals. Any advice is appreciated.

That will work

 

[Scott06]

Before I start, the boat is a 1985 Wellcraft that is getting heavy in the water. I know the right fix is a new transom and assembly but I am not spending $7 - 10 K on a boat that is worth $3000 tops. Here is my question:
So I noticed a hole in my Bravo one Transom Assembly as I was getting her ready to go in. When I bought the boat, the previous owner disconnected the Mercathode system and it created a nasty hole. I change the Zincs every year, however never noticed the disconnected system.

I did some research and saw what JR Marine did with creating a window for the steering arm replacement. I have cleaned the aluminum up and had a cover cut. I was thinking of using 4200 to adhere it, so should I tap screws into the 4 corners? I would have to use stainless steel ones but I am afraid with the dissimilar metals. Any advice is appreciated.

As above that will work but if it corroded through there you likely have other areas or areas on the gimbal ring that are weak, would makes sure those are ok and steering pin in good order. If any of that break under way you could be in trouble.

Usually you can find used fresh water transom assy for a heck of a lot less than $7-10 k assuming you can do the work.

MerCruiser Bravo 1 2 3 Three Stern transom outdrive drive mount gimbal housing | eBay

Bravo 1 2 or 3 gimble transom assembly, it’s in good shape and the steering pin is tight no play. Every works great but it will need need studs that go through the transom. NEEDS NEW STUDS please understand this before purchase

www.ebay.com

 

[WellcraftSportsman23]

If I were doing what you are doing, I would download the JM kit template and drill them where they do. They use the S/S screws, but the high quality ones, thinking 316 S/S, not the 308.

I did that kit on my B3 and have had zero problems with it.

PS: Since you are working it all, I would go the extra step and rebuild that steering pin with a S/S one and replace the bushings and seals, since it's all been exposed to the salt, especially if there is and gimbal play.

Thank you for the answer. I was thinking the same about the rebuild. Once I 4200 it, there is no taking it off. For the record there is no gimble play

 

[WellcraftSportsman23]

If I were doing what you are doing, I would download the JM kit template and drill them where they do. They use the S/S screws, but the high quality ones, thinking 316 S/S, not the 308.

I did that kit on my B3 and have had zero problems with it.

PS: Since you are working it all, I would go the extra step and rebuild that steering pin with a S/S one and replace the bushings and seals, since it's all been exposed to the salt, especially if there is and gimbal play.

Should I not use screws and just rely on the 4200?

 

[alldodge]

Use screws and tap holes

 

[WellcraftSportsman23]

Update: after doing some research, I found JR Marine. They make a cover that goes over this area for when you’re replacing the swivel pin. I called and spoke with Ron who is very helpful.he gave me some good ideas and I decided to have at it. I called the buddy who is a welder and he made a plate out of aluminum , we taped 4 holes and are gonna is 4200 to adhere it. Fingers crossed everything holds.