Capri 1750 Complete Restore :) & 9 Months to do it too!

[dezmond]

Quick question while I'm thinking about it. When I set my stringers, if I start to fill under them with PB and say I stop and have a quarter left to do. Can I come back after 24 hours and continue filling or will this cause an issue with joining the new to hardened PB ? Just courius.

 

[kcassells]

NON issue.

 

[sopwithcamel74]

Just got caught up on your recent progress - congrats on getting your transom in! Looking forward to the next steps!

 

[dezmond]

Thanks Sop.

Question for you epoxy guys. When i
go back to tabbing on the transom, can I sand with 80grit, wipe with acetone and start tabbing? Or do I have to “wash” the transom with water and scotch brite as well?

I dont mind sanding and acetone. Didn’t know if I have to do the extra step?

gonna be hoping to finish tabbing and laying glass tomorrow night.

Thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

As long as there's not a lot of Contaminants on the surface, the sanding and acetone wash will suffice.

 

[dezmond]

Thanks Wog

 

[dezmond]

Another short but good night. More tabbing done on the transom. Using a mixture of 17oz biax and 10oz cloth. Starting with 3” strips and working my way to roughly 6”. Since I have such a small area, I am overlapping and fitting in what I can. There will be more than enough tabbing when I’m all done. One more night of tabbing and then 2 full size pieces to cover that face of the core of 17oz. Hope to get my 2” minimum for transom thickness when that is done. Taking lots of pics and will get them posted by the weekend. Too lazy to go to the computer and download them

 

[dezmond]

Hey all!!! Long overdue for an update and pics.. Been a slow but very good week with the boat.

Got the rest of the tabbing done on the transom and glassed in 2 full pieces of 17oz biax on the transom. No bubbles Very happy. I used the roller and also a squeegee to push out the extra resin and bubbles. Thanks for the tip guys













For all the tabbing, I used 17oz biax in 3" and 5" strips to start with.....Added a 6" layer of 10oz cloth all the way around then finished up with a wide layer of 17oz again to get as much in there as possible. All layers are overlapping as well.

Then final to full pieces of 17oz biax on the transom face



A little bit of clean up to do of pokeys and bumps but very happy...

With the Biax cloth, you can feel the stitching through out.. Should I sand it all flat so my transom assembly sits flat? Or can I fair it? Or leave it alone?

More pics next post.....

 

[dezmond]

This morning I went out and decided to try my hands at wrapping one of the stringers.. I was very surprised how well the biax wraps over the top.. I cut 2 full length pieces at 76" long and 7" wide. Did a full over the top wrap with it. Wet on wet. It went very good.



I grabbed one of my workhorse saw horses and placed wax paper on first.... Then stood the stringer up and clamped it in so it would hold. I left about 7/4" un touched so I can tab into that after I lay in PB in the hull.











And all done with 2 layers.. I think that should be more than strong enough right?



Hope to get some feedback from everyone as to how I'm doing so far.. Tonight I will wrap the other stringer and have them ready to be installed. I plan to make my first 2 bulkheads and glass them out of the boat as well. Tack everything together then install as one piece in PB.

 

[dezmond]

A little tip to mention... I do love using this rotary tool for cutting the cloth. Does a real nice job at not tearing it up like scissors do..



mmmmmm I love new cloth... Soooooo purdy



That's it for now... I will get lot's more done and post more pics shortly... Thanks again everyone

 

[chevymaher]

Lookin good in the home stretch now.

 

[kcassells]

Now that is a cool tool! I must of missed it at USC
BTW nice glassing technique.

 

[mickyryan]

stringers look awesome! all of it looks good man you building a tank

 

[dezmond]

Thanks Mick. 2 layers of 17oz biax is more than enough correct? Using epoxy.

 

[dezmond]

Now that is a cool tool! I must of missed it at USC
BTW nice glassing technique.

Thanks. Ya these tools work amazing. We used them when we made spinners for home built aircraft. We could fold up 3-4 layers of csm and cut the pattern out. Was a lot quicker than doing one at a time. Just grab a couple extra blades. Also use a cutting made or softer wood under your cutting area. I use cut mat, 2x6, etc. Blades last longer.

 

[mickyryan]

yep 2 layers is golden,

 

[dezmond]

Well another good day of work done. Did some grinder clean up on the hull and bedded and filtered the first set of stringers. I’m happy . Cut my patterns of my first 2 bulkheads and bulkhead wingy thingys from cardboard. Cutting 3/4” ply tomorrow and will give them all a drink of resin and slow hardener. Then I plan to wrap them out of the boat like I did my stringers.

Can i I install the bulkheads and then tab everything in? Shouldn’t be a problem no? Just figure tabbing small areas will be easier then long runs. Hope to hear some input.

Pics to to come soon

 

[mickyryan]

i always preferred long runs because the way fiberglass works it transfers energy to strings of glass , longer glass the more energy is spread out, I'm no scientist and there are probably diminishing returns on that theory, but i always did long runs then tabbed bulkheads in.

 

[chevymaher]

I am with micky's train of thought. I literally ran my glass from the bow to transom one piece tabbing in stringers. Bigger the better.

 

[dezmond]

Sounds good guys. Full run of the length of my stringers. Then I will insert the bulkheads.