Carb Issue

[cjflanagan]

Engine S/N: OC527124<br />Transom S/N: OC700948<br />Drive S/N: OC751904<br />Engine: 350 Magnum Rochester 4 bbl<br /><br />New engine in. first time start... and no Power to Coil...<br /><br />Update coil issue resolved now I have another issue. Despite newly obtained verification of spark, new engine (original carb) will still not start. The fuel pump is new. The water separator is new too and when installed, it was bone dry. Unscrewed it and its now full of gas. Unscrewed the Fuel line from the carb and it seemed to be well pressurised with plenty of new fuel too and a bit of a hiss and squirt when disconnected. So I disconnected the throttle cable so that I could pump the carb by-hand while looking down the throat...nadda! I see nothing comming out of the jets! By the way, the carb has never given me trouble, but it was been on my bench for over a year. What gives?

 

[michael-lagrange]

Re: Carb Issue

Sound like the fuel is just not getting into the carb bowl. maybe the screen, or float could be stuck up keeping the needle closed.<br />you may have to pull the top off your carb to see if any gas is in the bowl, if none the problem will be befor the bowl. if gas is in the bowl the problem would be rebuild carb.<br /><br />be carefull if you use a hammer!

 

[harveje]

Re: Carb Issue

Check the in carb filter, I put mine in backasswards and fuel did not get past it, + the feed line when loosened was under pressure.

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Carb Issue

which way does it go?

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Carb Issue

ya - my filter is not backwards

 

[searay3]

Re: Carb Issue

Sounde like something got plugged up in the carb from sitting a long time. Accel pump not pumping. Need to pull it off and apart and check. If there is not any corrosion damage, you could try a rebuid kit. Need to soak it in carb cleaner and blow out all passages with compressed air prior to installing new parts.

 

[Captianloud]

Re: Carb Issue

No fuel squirts out of the accelerator jets when the throttle lever is depressed probably means the well and the float bowl are dry. <br /><br />If you did not dissassemble the carb and it ran when you last had it on an engine. then ....<br /><br />I'm thinking stuck needle and seat from sitting unused. Try tapping (lightly hitting) the carb top with the plastic handle end of a screw driver or a rubber mallet. This may free up the needle and seat. Electric fuel pump? If electric, Turn on key so pump is running when you do tap the top of carb and listen for change in pump sound (will indicate if fuel is now flowing) and check make sure fuel is not pouring down the throat of carb (needle & seat now not closing). <br /> Good luck..........

 

[searay3]

Re: Carb Issue

Carb sat on the bench for over a year. You are having fuel related problems. Change filters, inspect the lines and anti-siphon, rebuild or replace the carb. If you are reusing old gaskets to mount it, shaking and banging and tapping it, I don't believe you will have much luck with it running properly.

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Carb Issue

All right, I've looked at a diagram after searching the forums. Apparently there is a small hole just ahead of the spark arrestor stud, as I understand it, placing a gauge in there moves the float, and thus the needle valve. Intead of banging on it I'm going to try manipulating it this way. I'll turn the engine over a few times first, to build up pressure. Anybody rebuild a carb before? Is it easy? I feal fortunate that this is not a big stinkin mystery.

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Carb Issue

Holy Cow!!!! I decided to just go ahead and order up a rebuild kit for the old Rochester 4bbl ($19 bucks), and a new float ($6 bucks). I separated the air horn assembly, float bowl assembly, and the bottom 'flapper' assembly from one-and-other and they are all out soaking in chem dip now ($18 bucks). Pretty cool stuff looks like a paint can with a little basket and some brown looking gruel.<br /><br />Well anyway, I wouldn't exactly call the float bowl dry... well it was dry of gas for sure, but was full of oily varnish and fuzzy, nasty mold! The needle valves were oxidized and it is no wonder that nothing was going through that piece of cheese ;o) <br /><br />Now I wonder, though I have never had a lick of trouble with this carb up till now, I wonder if it is worth rebuilding?

 

[searay3]

Re: Carb Issue

When you pull it out of the soak, you'll be amazed at how clean it will look. The issues with rebuilding a carb are corrosion in the body and the throttle shaft being worn. If it does not have obvious damage, and it ran okay prior to the rebuild, chances are good it will work fine. Don't forget to use compressed air to blow thru every passage prior to installing the new parts.

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Carb Issue

One of my buddies came over with his compressor, we sat out in the garage went through a couple six packs of rolling rock. The activity of cleaning the carb reminded me of cleaning a gun with all the nooks and crannies. I used a stainless steel brush on the hard stuff followed by brass. In the nooks I used a tiny screw driver and some 320 grit sand paper. What a difference! Looks like new! Now if I can get it all back together tomorrow, I should be in good shape. So far it's been pretty fun, anyone out there contemplating doing this, go for it, it's not that hard.

 

[Mile-High Mariner]

Re: Carb Issue

Good for you, BP - I died laughing at your description of what you found in your carb (...that piece of cheese...)!

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Carb Issue

Ya I think I'm going for the hat trick here: carbs all done and pumping nice, coil issues done and I checked it twice. Turn da key and the B**** rolls over, waitin for the fire but i'm just growin older. Sunday mornin i'll check my lady she might be off by a dam-buck-80!

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Carb Issue

uncle! uncle! uncle! <br />Have spark - Timing light all 8 new wires and plugs + Coil <br />Have fuel - Fresh carb rebuild, squirts when you pump, fresh fuel too. <br />Have Compression - New rebuild crate engine <br />On Time - 4 degrees advance switched wires both ways to check 180. <br /><br />WILL NOT START sombody give me a tip here...

 

[calwldlif]

Re: Carb Issue

Hey Now<br /> Do you get any thing, a cough, sputter,<br />pop?<br /> Could it just be flooded?<br />So far it looks like you have done it right.<br />Are static timing with 12volt test light?<br />You are sure it is sparking? (remove coil<br />wire and loosely place in cap to listen look for<br />spark) Is this how you timed it?<br />I f you kept sqirting accel pump, it could be flooded.<br />If float is high it could be flooded<br />Are plugs wet?<br />Tell me more.

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Carb Issue

I know be patient... Ok let me answer your questions 1 by 1:<br />Q~ did you get... A~ No nothing, at one point I did get a back fire through the carb, that's when I figured it was out 180 switched the wires around 180 -nothing. Q~ Could it just be flooded A~ I don't know, but at some point along the path it wouldn't have been. Q~ Are static timing... I put a nice stripe of white paint in the timing slot so I could see it good, then I had my daughter turn the key. The line lined up at 4 degrees ahead at the flash. Q~Are you sure it's sparking... A~ according to the timing light yes on all eight wires. Q~ Is this how you timed... A~ No I did it as described prior. Q~If float is high... A~ I set the float with calipers measuring back 3/16 from float's 'toe' and from there up to the top of the bowl (15/64ths)Q~ are plugs wet A~I can't get the plugs out without removing the manifold and elbow... The clearance is too tight on the 5.7. Keep asking...

 

[calwldlif]

Re: Carb Issue

Backfire suggests timing.<br />To static time motor there are a couple ways.<br />A test light hooked to points and ground<br />will show open/closed state of points.<br />remove dist cap, rotate crank with wrench,<br />note direction rotor spins.<br />With wrench rotate engine and place damper mark<br />at proper Adv Deg(put engine were it is supposed to spark #1)<br />Hook 1 lead of test light to neg side of coil.<br />Place other lead to ground.<br />Loosen dist hold down to allow turning.<br />turn key on, twist dist to open/close points<br />causing test light to go on/off.<br />Make sure you twist dist in the proper direction<br />to mimic rotor rotation. When slowly twisting <br />dist, as soon as light goes off, stop. This is<br />now static time.<br /><br />Another meathod is instead of test light you<br />pull coil wire from dist cap, loosely place<br />back in hole, when twisting dist to open/close<br />points it will spark, stop after it just sparks and it is static time. <br /><br />If it is flooded, check choke,<br />open choke and put thottle is WOT.<br />Crank and hope it catches,be aware it gunna runn.<br /><br />I hope I have explained static timing<br />in a clear useable way.

 

[calwldlif]

Re: Carb Issue

I am having some confusion<br />about the light on off.<br />Its been awhile since I<br />did 1.<br />I could have the light on/off<br />backwards. Closed light on/ open light off.<br />You should be able to see which is right<br />Age don't ya know

 

[calwldlif]

Re: Carb Issue

I am having some confusion<br />about the light on off.<br />Its been awhile since I<br />did 1.<br />I have the light on/off<br />backwards. Closed light on/ open light off.<br />You should be able to see which is right<br />Age don't ya know