carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

[Smig]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

...and I'm guessing on this fuel pump kit: Sierra 18-7815

http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfind...gd_poid=112444&gd_row=20&**********=556290768

I'll see if I can confirm tonight. If you confirm, post back...

Smig (I need to order these to- thanks for the reminder!)

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Try this carb kit: Sierra Kit 18-7007

http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfind...gd_poid=112062&gd_row=28&**********=556290768

I have one carb apart and soaking in berryman. It was clean, no obstructions. I carefully cleaned each part by hand/toothbrush with deep-creep and then blew them out with compressed air. Once I had them all clean I put them in the berryman to soak.

While that one was soaking I took apart the second carb, one piece at a time ... since I'll need that to reassemble the first one. I cleaned each part individually and the reassembled the carb. It was pretty clean too, though it did have some grit on the rubber seal the bowl rests against, and below the rubber seal. One of the jets might(?) have been partially obstructed when I pulled it out. I don't think it is now, and I doubt it will be after a swim in the berryman. I pulled the first carb out after 3-4 hours and was suprised at how much cleaner a few of the parts were.

On the agenda for tomorrow morning, blow off carb #1 parts and then reassemble with new gaskets. Tear down #2 and let it soak.

GL

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Both carbs have been completely rebuilt with new gaskets and diaphrams and have been cleaned very thouroughly. Last night I completed re-installing them.

I also checked (and double-checked) the compression last weekend:

#1 130 PSI
#2 131 PSI
#3 126 PSI
#4 139 PSI

From what I understand, that level of compression is very good, though the 126/139 differential between 3 & 4 is ok, much more differential is a potential problem.

The old spark plugs were all fouled. Not sure what this means other than I need to purchase 4 new ones ... so I did that.

Todo
1. Install new spark plugs (purchased)
2. Get Tach Working (old one likely junk)
3. Being Link and synch
4. Adjust Reverse Lockdown
5. Head to the water to complete Link and Synch
6. Enjoy the boat?
7. Clean up the old gal?

GL

 

[Smig]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

126/139 differential between 3 & 4

Sounds like you are making progress! Once everything is smoothed out, try the decarb again and the compressions may even out.

2. Get Tach Working (old one likely junk)

Tach: check the rectifier - a bad rectifier will affect tach readings. A lot of rectifiers get fried when someone connects the battery cables backwards (both of my motors came with bad rectifiers)

4. Adjust Reverse Lockdown

What's wrong with your reverse lock?

6. Enjoy the boat

That's what this is all about!! Altough I have to admit, once I fix a problem, I usually manage to create a few more for myself (gee - I think I will fix something that isn't broken!!)

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Sounds like you are making progress! Once everything is smoothed out, try the decarb again and the compressions may even out.

Slowly but surely. It's tough to leave the old lady sitting in a garage and only wrench on it every couple of weeks, but that is what has to be done.

Tach: check the rectifier - a bad rectifier will affect tach readings. A lot of rectifiers get fried when someone connects the battery cables backwards (both of my motors came with bad rectifiers)

Rectifier ... I actually know what that is! I was looking though the manual last night trying to figure out how the Tach might work.

The Tach looks to be the original from 1976. It has a busted glass covering as well. I might try to bring it back from the dead just to see if I can, but I am guessing its busted. I found some instructions in the FAQ on checking the rectifier, will do.

What's wrong with your reverse lock?

Maybe nothing? In the garage when I put it in reverse (engine not running) I can see the lock rotate ever so slightly. I can then walk back and lift the motor off the rod/pin that it rests on. I'd expect it to catch. Quite honestly my first test was going to be to use the trolling motor to get out to deep water to test a hole shot (after a link-n-synch) and then worry about the reverse lock.

That's what this is all about!! Altough I have to admit, once I fix a problem, I usually manage to create a few more for myself (gee - I think I will fix something that isn't broken!!)

I dropped a screw into the cowling of the motor last night and haven't been able to retrieve it. I checked the entire garage floor to see if it was on the ground, no luck. I proceeded to jostle the motor, raise it and lower it, etc. to try and shake it loose ... nothing. Sigh.

I have enjoyed working on the motor so far. We have a pontoon boat that I can run around to get a boating fix, but I'd like to get this one running too.

Thanks for the continued help. Hopefully I'll know enough someday to pay it forward to someone else.

GL

 

[Smig]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

I know how frustrating it can be only getting to work on the motor once in a while!!

Keep us posted on your progress (btw - not to get off topic, but just wondering what are you going to put this motor on??)

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

I know how frustrating it can be only getting to work on the motor once in a while!!

Keep us posted on your progress (btw - not to get off topic, but just wondering what are you going to put this motor on??)

The motor is hanging off a 1976 VIP of unknown model. I plan on contacting VIP to see if they can give me any info on it. I have searched on google without much luck. It is meant for bass fishing, which is what I'll use it for mostly. My father is in his mid 70's and I have been wanting to take him to this one particular lake for a fishing trip and did so this year. We had a ball. The lake doesn't allow the use of gas motors, only trolling motors, so we were all set.

I have all the lights and pumps working on it, and it takes on little to no water. Had to pour some water into the bilge to test the pump after 4 days on the lake. I am guessing that might change when I get to WOT.

If I get the motor running well enough, next project will be to install a kill switch and then clean the old lady up a bit, new carpet, new seats, as well as a good polishing. If all goes well I'll probably put a few new gauges on her as well.

I grew up getting my hands dirty ... construction, dairy farming, hod carrying, etc. and now I sit in meetings most of the time and work on a computer the rest. My hands used to look like a catchers mitt and now they look like a PalmOlive commercial. One thing I never really got to experiment with was tinkering with motors and I wanted to pick up a hobby that dovetails nicely with my favorite past-time ... fishing.

GL

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Thanks to some helpful suggestions from Smig, I have fixed my latest issue and I am ready to move to the next one. I was having problems getting a good seal on the carbs at the fuel pump. Finally decided to swap the covers and gasket from one to the other to see if I could isolate which one was the issue. It turned out that after swapping them neither of them leaked. Problem solved? I guess so.

On to my next step. I have everything reinstalled. When I pump the prime bulb it gets fuel to the carbs and tightens up. If I keep pumping it after it gets tight, a stream of fuel will come out of the Economizer Jet (#15) on the lower carb ... nothing comes out of the jet on the uppper carb.

Is this a problem that needs to be corrected, or to be expected? The obvious answer is to not pump the prime bulb after it tightens up, but I wondered if anyone could confirm this is either a problem or not a problem.

Pending the solution to this answer, I think I am ready for a link-n-synch.

GL

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

On to my next step. I have everything reinstalled. When I pump the prime bulb it gets fuel to the carbs and tightens up. If I keep pumping it after it gets tight, a stream of fuel will come out of the Economizer Jet (#15) on the lower carb ... nothing comes out of the jet on the uppper carb.

Is this a problem that needs to be corrected, or to be expected? The obvious answer is to not pump the prime bulb after it tightens up, but I wondered if anyone could confirm this is either a problem or not a problem.

Pending the solution to this answer, I think I am ready for a link-n-synch.

GL

Shameless bump. If anyone can clue me in on whether I have an issue or not ... I will have a rare chance to work on my motor this weekend, as well as access to a timing light, and possibly a second set of hands.

Many thanks in advance!

GL

 

[Smig]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

GL,
I think it means that you're pumping to hard or your floats are not adjusted correctly. Look at this thread

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

GL,
I think it means that you're pumping to hard or your floats are not adjusted correctly. Look at this thread

Thanks Smig, total brain-fart there, not using the search to find that info myself. *sigh*

Update:

Attempted to start the motor last weekend, fuel just gushed out of the lower carb. A bit of searching here has me figuring that I need to check my needles & floats.

GL

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Good gravy! Tore apart my carbs and found I put one of the needles in upside down. DOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHH! Put it in correcty, set the floats, and reassembled. Started right up, adjusted the idle ... idles pretty nicely.

Curiosity got the better of me. Filled the garbage can full of water and dropped the motor in ... started it up ... let it idle for a bit .... and then slipped it into gear. So far so good ... prop spinning ... now for the moment of truth ... I eased on the gas and it responded immedietely!! Wohooo!!

Next step is to check link-n-sych as well as timing. Need to either figure out my tach (likely busted) or get a new one.

Looking good at the moment.

GL

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Impatience got the better of me yesterday ... it was 80 deg in Ohio and I loaded up the boat and brought it to a local lake and dropped it in.

I have no tach (possible rectifier issue), have not done a link-n-synch, etc. I don't care, got to know if the old lady is going to go before I put another minute into her. I set the idle based on some instructions I found on this forum.

She started right up and idled very smoothly. Put it into gear and the idle drops ever so slightly but she slowly starts to move ... eased the throttle foward ... and she took right off. I steadily increased the throttle until I was at WOP and she ran very nicely.

I made several 2-3 minute runs at 90% WOT, some slower runs, idled a bit. Shut it off for a few minutes, started right back up, etc. No real issues. After all the running around it did conk out once at idle, but I think I have some room to increase my idol a bit. (Need to get a tach operating to tell)

Thanks to all that have helped me get this far, I really appreciate it.

Also found a plate in the boat that has the model number of the VIP so I think I can figure out what I have attached to my motor now.

GL

* need to pull the spark plugs to check for fouling
* need to fix reverse lockdown
* need to check rectifier/install tach
* need to check timing/Link-n-sycn
* winterize
* Enjoy in 2008

 

[ThumbPkr]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Good luck with everything.You should author a book on this.It has made for some very interesting reading.It is refreshing to deal with an open mind who is appreciative of the assistance received and has the patience and discipline to keep things in order and the humility to share both the good and the not so good.Best wishes to you in the future.Ron G

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Good luck with everything.You should author a book on this.It has made for some very interesting reading.It is refreshing to deal with an open mind who is appreciative of the assistance received and has the patience and discipline to keep things in order and the humility to share both the good and the not so good.Best wishes to you in the future.Ron G

I am glad that you have enjoyed the thread, I suspect that many people skip right over it when they see it pop back to the top. "That joker again"? Ha Ha.

Ok, I am not sure I did my rectifier test correctly the first time. I have spent about an hour searcing/reading for rectifier tests and have a few questions.

1) Can I do a basic go/no go test with a circut tester like this one? http://www.farnsworthelectronics.com/part images/multim12.gif

2) My rectifier has 5 wires attached to it. 1 black wire acting as the ground. 1 red wire supplying power from/to the battery? 1 yellow wire from the stator, and finally, 1 yellow/gray wire connecting to a grey wire at the rectifier. I am assuming this is where my tach would hook up.

The more I read about rectifier testing, the more I get confused. This is what I have figured out so far, please correct me if I am wrong.

1) disconnect battery
2) Remove the yellow, yellow/gray, and gray wires from the rectifier leaving the Red and Black wires only. Reconnect the battery?
3) a. hook the NEG to the black wire and then put the POS on the Red
b. then POS to Yellow
c. and then POS to Yellow/Gray terminals
4) a. Hook NEG to Red wire, POS to black wire and note connectivity
b. Hook NEG To Yellow wire, POS to black wire and note connectivity
c. Hood NEG to Yellow/Gray wire, POS to black wire and note connectivity

If I have connectivity in both 3A and 4A
or If I have connectivity in both 3b and 4b
or If I have connectivity in both 3c and 4c
I have a bad rectifier ... else, likely to be OK.

Thanks,

GL

 

[Smig]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

GL,
When I tested my rectifier I did it by "the book" (OEM Manual) - which means using a multimeter (resistance) to check for continuity. Your method (and the tool you linked to) require electricity which tends to shock people and fry parts!! That is why, in my mind, continuity (via resistance) is a safer method for testing. (I have forgotten to disconnect the battery when doing work and was very lucky that I only let a little smoke out of the wires, no major damage to myself or the engine!)

That said, I am a nervous newbie, there may be others out there that use your method so lets see what they have to say.

Regarding the wires you are correct, although the yellow/grey is also from the stator and the grey most likely goes to the controller for your tach.

BTW: I used a cheap $10 multi-meter to test mine - nothing fancy.

Smig

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

GL,
When I tested my rectifier I did it by "the book" (OEM Manual) - which means using a multimeter (resistance) to check for continuity. Your method (and the tool you linked to) require electricity which tends to shock people and fry parts!! That is why, in my mind, continuity (via resistance) is a safer method for testing. (I have forgotten to disconnect the battery when doing work and was very lucky that I only let a little smoke out of the wires, no major damage to myself or the engine!)

Well, the part about "requires electricity" finally lit up my dim bulb.

A mulit-meter doesn't need the electricty to check for continuity apparently.

Thats what I was wondering. I don't own a multi-meter, but I'd bet one of my neighbors do. I guess that means I'll have to borrow one then.

I plan to check my spark plugs for fouling tonight, and check the rectifier if I can get my hands on a multi-meter. I plan on taking the old gal out on Saturday morning for her first full-up, fire-up-the-motor-and-haul-butt-across-the-lake fishing trip.

Reverse lock is definately not engaging. I spent a good deal of time searching and reading last night on this forum and suspect that I unwittingly introduced the issue when I replaced my impeller. Either that or I need a new cam. That'll have to wait until next week.

The hooks turn slightly when put in reverse, but not far enough for the motor to catch. The hooks do not rotate back, so I believe it would lock if I could get them to roatae a bit farther. I sprayed liberal amounts of WD40 on it last night and might try it again tonight, but I think I am going to have to drop the lower unit to fix it.

Thanks!

GL

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

My rectifier is toast. I stopped by Radio Shack and picked up a 25A/50V deal-e-o and began installing it tonight. Re-tested the old one versus the new to ensure I was testing it properly. I was, old one toast, new one ready to go. I need to get a vew supplies (wire, splices, and spade connectors) in order to complete that job.

Checked my spark plugs. 1 and 2 have some evidence of fouling, 3 and 4 were pretty much clean. Need to do a bit of searching /reading to determine what that means.

GL

 

[jprobst73]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

I'm missing parts C and 4 in this picture from an 82 merc 50 hp 4 cyl. Sorry to interupt another thread but if someone could help me with part #'s or where I could buy I would appreciate it.

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

I'm missing parts C and 4 in this picture from an 82 merc 50 hp 4 cyl. Sorry to interupt another thread but if someone could help me with part #'s or where I could buy I would appreciate it.

Find your serial number and check here.
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/selectSerailRange.asp?doc_nbr=50+(4-STROKE)

I'll be pulling my boat out of storage this weekend and continue on with the final few pieces.

GL