Century Coronado restore

[89 resorter]

Great idea sphelps! I guess this will be a good job to test WOG's squeeze bag idea for laying the bead of pb along the tops of the stringers.

Thanks

 

[sphelps]

Find some heavy stuff to weight it down till the pb cures ....

 

[89 resorter]

I was planning on screwing it to the cleats with SS screws figuring that would hold the parts together while the pb cures. I could then either leave the screws in place or pull them out and fill the holes before I glass over the floor.

 

[89 resorter]

Been awhile since my last post but I have been making some progress. The floor is installed and tabbed to the hull and I am now just installing all of the smaller wood pieces such as the battery shelf, running hardware mounting blocks, etc. I capped the stringers for waterproofing purposes using 6 oz cloth and boy what a difference. Much easier to work with than the 17 oz. stuff in regards to getting it to stick in corners and around bends. The structural stuff will pretty much be done once I get the foam poured and then cover the rest of the floor with 6 oz. I am now starting to give some thought to how to get the boat off of the trailer and get her flipped over so I can begin working on the outside.

Pic showing the pads where the running hardware and water pickup mounts.


Pic showing the battery shelf and mounting pad for the bilge pump and ski pole

 

[Woodonglass]

Nice Work!!!

 

[harleyman1975]

I'm sure you will but don't forget to epoxy coat the wood "holes" so they don't wick up water at your hull penetrations...even if you bed in 4200 or 5200 (exhaust, stuffing boxes, water pickups, ect...) I love this boat! Oh and my .02 the blues looks like gelcoat to me. blue gelcoat will scratch almost white. try wetting it and see if it looks blue when wet. just looks to thick to be paint...now with that being said I have no aversion to painting gelcoat. acrylic enamel with a hardener works quite well or you can up the ante and do Acrylic urethane or even base/clear. Your workmanship is as good as any boatyard could do (I meant that as a compliment)

 

[Kiloecho]

Nice Work!!!

I'd have to agree with my neighbor to the North. He is the glass work guru from what I can determine here on the board. I'm pleased to see another classic glass Century. Another Arabian just surfaced yesterday. I skimmed through your thread and will have to go back and read it. I'm winding down my Century project because I have to leave the country for awhile. In the clean up phase.

KE

 

[89 resorter]

Thanks for the compliments (even the one about as good as a boatyard lol). Harleyman, Most all of the thru holes have been over sized and back filled with PB so no wood should be exposed once the holes are drilled. Unfortunately I did not learn of this trick until after I installed the transom so I will make sure to epoxy coat the exhaust and swim platform holes good before installing those parts. Jury is still out if blue is paint or gelcoat. it did not bubble when I laid a rag soaked with acetone but then the hardware I removed had what looked to be blue paint on it as if it had been masked and painted. I know that the white is gel and will stay gel since this boat will stay docked through summer months. Kiloecho, I have been following your Arabian thread and can't wait to see you get it back in the water. My wife thinks I'm crazy when I tell her I'm going to start looking for an old Arabian to do next.

 

[Woodonglass]

If you want to make sure, try using some Xylene on the blue stuff. If it's paint, I guarantee the Xylene will take it off!!! DON'T leave it on a rag though. Just dampen the rag and rub vigorously. If blue comes off, it's paint. Probably a good urethane with a hardener.

 

[harleyman1975]

W.O.G. take a look at pics in post 21. To me, the blue looks to go all the way to the glass. 89 Resorter, gelcoat, when applied at the factory, is usually sprayed on...that could explain the overspray you are seeing.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, I'm bettin it's gelcoat too!!!

 

[89 resorter]

I would think that the factory would have sprayed the gelcoat on prior to installing hardware. Here's a pic that made me think that the boat was likely painted since it looks like they did it without removing the swim platform brackets and did a shoddy job masking off the brackets where you can see some over spray on the white. I found this in other areas of the boat as well.



I guess it really does not matter since the surfaces are beat up to the point that it will need totally redone (painted or gelcoated) as I highly doubt that I will be able to get a good match with spot repairs.

 

[Woodonglass]

OK, OK, you've convinced me now. That for sure looks like overspray!!!! Try some Xylol or Xylene on it. That stuff will eat it off but...wear gloves cuz it'll eat your hands too!!!!

 

[89 resorter]

WOG, hopefully I will get a chance to test it with the Xylol or Xylene this weekend or next and then we'll all know for sure.

Thanks

 

[harleyman1975]

Yeah I agree that aint factory! LOL. Still love this boat and am very impressed with your workmanship! Perhaps the gelcoat was color matched and repainted at some time?

 

[89 resorter]

I think your right that it was probably color matched with the original gelcoat. The color is exactly the same behind where I pulled the dashboard and other stuff off of the helm and I highly doubt that the painter would have removed all of that stuff to paint if they did not remove any of the hardware on the outside. I'll know for sure once I do the test suggested by WOG. It will be awhile before I get to the painting and/or gelcoating but I'm curious if it will affect the way I have to prep and what product I use based on whether it turns out to be paint versus gelcoat

 

[harleyman1975]

Well either way it will have to be sanded. if it has been painted then look for poor adhesion, places where it is peeling. Some guys rush things and don't do a thorough job of prepping. If you plan to repaint the blue I would suggest that you 320 sand all of it then go back over with 600 grit and paint it with an acrylic urethane. you will only need primer in places where "body work" has been done (i.e. the bow) or where you cut through the old paint. I recommend a good 2k primer (there are many brands out there). If you intend to spray yourself let me know and I will give my best advise...but if you have no prior experience spraying automotive grade paint perhaps get it prepped and have a pro spray it for you (should only cost a couple hundred to have someone spray it).

 

[89 resorter]

This will be the third year I missed getting this boat in the water so I can't be accused of rushing things LOL. I plan on doing all of the prep work myself and I'm sure that I will have lots of questions since I never done this type of work. If I do end up painting, I will likely get a pro to do it. At this point I am planning to gelcoat the bottom (i.e. white part) myself but will practice first on an old dock box I have (may change my mind after the dock box but we'll see).

Thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

OR, you could be like me, A C.O.B. and go the Tractor Paint route. Less than $100 bucks and a Harbor Freight Paint gun. Mines 3 yrs old and still looks like new. The paint is hard as nails and is standing up to the Sun and water just fine.

 

[89 resorter]

This past weekend I was able to finish capping the stringers with the 6oz and tried my hand at the two part pour in foam. I have to admit that it was a strange feeling to drill a bunch of holes in the new floor I just completed but I got used to it (had no choice lol). It took me a couple tries to dial in the amount to pour ..... Kinda felt like the three little bear story where the first was too little then the second was too much. This pic shows both with the hole on the left not quite rising to the surface while the one on the right looks like an atom bomb test.



Once I got it dialed in, the other pours were just right.





My next step is to PB the pucks back in place and get a layer of fiberglass over the floor.....hoping that will happen next weekend.