Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

[Ck111484]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

Ahh I just realized I ordered the wrong part. Guess I'll be doing some returning :facepalm:

 

[MRS]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

When you get your setting right at the motor linkage the trunion should be 6-1/2 from center of casing to center of trunion. The cable end to center of casing 7-5/8 + - 1/32 then it should be hooked up to linkage and do not move. Then you do your bell crank ajustment.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

Wcasey5, in all my searching on the web and the manuals, this write up is 10 fold the best. My cable will be here tomorrow, and I can start the install. My cable snapped due to a sticking shifter rod. (got that fixed). I didn't have to remove the bell housing to get the old cable off. I just held it up with a block of wood.

I have read this thread (except the use the special tool, no don't use it.. yes use it part) 4 times. Thanks for posting this.. you saved me big time.

In another note, when I called a shop the dude was kind of rude when I asked about how much to replace the lower cable. (his words) "I wont replace the cable with out replacing the bellows too" . I told him my bellows were replaced just 3 yrs ago along with a new cable. The new cable broke because of the shifter rod sticking. He said "don't care, its the only way to do it right". I said I don't go to the dentist and have 3 fillings done just because I'm numb in the general area. So his price was between $390, and $450. I just don't trust shops anymore. After having all this done last time they didn't check the shifter rod.

Anyway.. thanks a million, awesome write up.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

I told him my bellows were replaced just 3 yrs ago along with a new cable. The new cable broke because of the shifter rod sticking. He said "don't care, its the only way to do it right". I said I don't go to the dentist and have 3 fillings done just because I'm numb in the general area. So his price was between $390, and $450. I just don't trust shops anymore. After having all this done last time they didn't check the shifter rod.

Of course you should be replacing your bellows every 4 years anyway so he is actually pretty close to being right. It only takes a few minutes more to replace the bellows when you have everything off so why not just do it now!

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

Of course you should be replacing your bellows every 4 years anyway so he is actually pretty close to being right. It only takes a few minutes more to replace the bellows when you have everything off so why not just do it now!

I'm one of these "if its not broke don't fix it" persons. I did look them over and they look fine. (no breaking down of the rubber).

Now, the shifter rod I'm considering. To me its awfully stiff going up and down. It stuck and thats what broke my cable in the first place. (well.. me jamming it in to gear). I called the 2 shops in town and both places said it's suppose to be a little stiff to move up and down. I read on another thread where some one took a hammer and tapped his it was so stiff, and WD40-ed it and it works fine now.

What I'm lacking now is trusting a shop to do anything. Since a shop replaced my cable 3 years ago (was hard to shift and why I took it in) instead of finding out why, they just replaced the cable. (and bellows, and couple of things) It was almost as stiff from day one from the shop.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

I'm one of these "if its not broke don't fix it" persons. I did look them over and they look fine. (no breaking down of the rubber).

The only problem is that when this breaks you ruin your u-joints, gimbal bearing, possibly your drive and the small issue of your boat sinking...your choice of course!

You store your drive up or down?

 

[wcasey5]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

Wcasey5, in all my searching on the web and the manuals, this write up is 10 fold the best. My cable will be here tomorrow, and I can start the install. My cable snapped due to a sticking shifter rod. (got that fixed). I didn't have to remove the bell housing to get the old cable off. I just held it up with a block of wood.

I have read this thread (except the use the special tool, no don't use it.. yes use it part) 4 times. Thanks for posting this.. you saved me big time.


Anyway.. thanks a million, awesome write up.

Thanks! This is why I wrote it and took the pics. Like you, I read and read, looked at the manual, but some of the concepts were just escaping me. When I look at it, they are simple concepts, but I just could not get my head around them. Good luck, to be fool proof I would get the special tools, even with that purchase you are still WAY under the cost of a shop doing it.

I paid a low amount for the boat, and was confident in my abilities, so I made my own tool, used a protraractor.

I have had the boat out at least 8 times on the chesepeake bay, and it has shifted reliably and easily after this repair.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

The only problem is that when this breaks you ruin your u-joints, gimbal bearing, possibly your drive and the small issue of your boat sinking...your choice of course!

You store your drive up or down?

Outdrive stored down. The only times I leave it up is when camping and have it with us at the campsite. Just a few days at a time.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

Thanks! This is why I wrote it and took the pics. Like you, I read and read, looked at the manual, but some of the concepts were just escaping me. When I look at it, they are simple concepts, but I just could not get my head around them. Good luck, to be fool proof I would get the special tools, even with that purchase you are still WAY under the cost of a shop doing it.

I paid a low amount for the boat, and was confident in my abilities, so I made my own tool, used a protraractor.

I have had the boat out at least 8 times on the chesepeake bay, and it has shifted reliably and easily after this.

Do you remember if your shifter rod was firm to push up and down? Did you check it? I'm concerned about getting this all together and it still shifts hard because there is something going on in the lower unit.

 

[wcasey5]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

I didn't try the shift rod, when I put it together it shifted real good. Lucky I guess.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

I didn't try the shift rod, when I put it together it shifted real good. Lucky I guess.

Since I'm only out the price of a gasket, when my cable gets here this afternoon I'll put it together and hope for the best. Thanks again for this awesome very easy to understand write up. And the pics, are better then any where else on the subject.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

It does take a little bit of effort to move the shift rod. Been so long since I did one of these, hard to remember how much force it took. Hopefully, you aren't trying to move the rod without rotating the propeller shaft or the drive shaft(actually very hard to do because of the impeller).

When everything is installed, do not shift without the engine running. That's a good way of ruining the cable.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

It does take a little bit of effort to move the shift rod. Been so long since I did one of these, hard to remember how much force it took. Hopefully, you aren't trying to move the rod without rotating the propeller shaft or the drive shaft(actually very hard to do because of the impeller).

When everything is installed, do not shift without the engine running. That's a good way of ruining the cable.

I think this is how the new cable broke. When we launched the boat I put it in reverse. It didn't go, so I tried forward, and it went in, but didn't come out. So I cut the motor and tied back up to the dock, and tried to raise the out drive. Totally dead. So I did a fast check on line and some one had posted if it's between gears the trim wont work. So I tried shifting it a couple of times, and yup, the drive started working. When I took the cable off to inspect it, I pulled sort of hard, and snap. So the cable was already half gone.

Yes, I'm spinning the prop when pushing up and down on the shifter rod. It's stiff, but seems to hit a spot where it doesn't want to move at all. I wiggle it a little and then it will move. I have to take it to Portland Oregon (about 51 miles from where I live in Salem) to be looked at. There are only 2 boat places here in town, and well.. I can't say anything nice, so I wont say anything at all..

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

So I did a fast check on line and some one had posted if it's between gears the trim wont work.

That's not true.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

That's not true.

Siting at the dock (with the outdrive down) when I pushed on the button, nothing but a clicking sound on the pump. After I wiggled the shifter back and fourth it moved up. Since I read online (will have to find where I read it, think it's saved on wifes lap top) I didn't check the wires on the shifter.. What do you think would cause the out drive trim to only click on the pump and not run?



Also Found this (pic below) it reads 17 pounds to move up or down. After it sits about 30 mins, I think I exceed that to move it. After that its more like 3 or 4 pounds to move it.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

What do you think would cause the out drive trim to only click on the pump and not run?

Failing solenoid.

Very strange that the effort required to move the shift rod changes over time. Almost sounds like a bad seal.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

Failing solenoid.

Very strange that the effort required to move the shift rod changes over time. Almost sounds like a bad seal.

Kind of what I have been reading, or a bad dog clutch? My cable didn't come today (hate Salem Oregon its a total mail order town) but when I get it, and all put back together I'm going to try one time running it on the muffs. If I don't like how it shifts, I'll take the drive right back off.

I'm not sure opening the lower unit is something I want to take on, so I may take it to a marina in Portland that has lots of great reviews. I did speak with the owner on the phone and he said it's not too bad unless you have to replace gears. Looking at the exploded view of that lower unit replacing the seal for the shift rod, or even the shift rod didn't look or read that tough.. but if it's the dog clutch... Um.. think its out of my comfort zone.

I just went out and lifted and pushed down on the shift rod after it sitting for about 3 hours. Had to push very, very hard to get it to move up, then down. Then after that is was a lot easier. Hummmmmm

 

[MRS]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

Did you say that somebody replaced your cable and other things before? If they did change the shift shaft seal and put it in upside down it will bindup on the shift shaft big time. Plus if that seal is bad will leak between the cases.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

Did you say that somebody replaced your cable and other things before? If they did change the shift shaft seal and put it in upside down it will bindup on the shift shaft big time. Plus if that seal is bad will leak between the cases.

No, not the shift rod or seal. (I don't think, but I'm looking for the bill.. wife keeps everything like that). I believe I would have recalled hearing him say that. I remember he said he replaced the bellows, cable, and something else. It was only $480.00. The boat sat a couple of months before I tried it out. (was doing radiation therapy for cancer, and boating was the last thing on my mind.)

When I did take it out, it didn't shift like new.. it was still stiff. The shop has since went under so I didn't have any recourse. It got worst shifting over the years.. until the cable broke here just couple weeks ago. I couldn't move the inner cable with all my might. When I took the outdrive off, the cable moved as smooth as could be.

BUT.. that shift rod was stuck I had to hammer on it (firmly but soft) to get it to move. once it starts moving up and down its a little stiff, but not bad.. After it sits for a couple of hours its all stuck again.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **

Waiting for parts.. (Salem Oregon is a mail order town). I had to replace my bearing housing, After separating the upper from the lower I found 2 bad O rings, and the housing itself was damaged. The boat is used in salt water (crabbing) and it looks like maybe some salt got to it. (I do have a fresh water cooler though... well.. anti freeze for the motor)

The shop didn't go this far, all they did was replace the cable, and bellows. and U joints. Actually, the shop I took it to I don't think they knew much about how Cobra's shift. If they had (I think) they should have checked out the shift rod. It was so gummed up, with crud it was sticking to the seal and wiper. The new cable they put in was still fighting against that, so it broke.

I'm not 100% sure there is a problem even lower but it shifts fine by hand right now, but its seems to get stuck a little down in the bottom. Once I get it all put back together if it shifts hard I will take it into Portland where they know how Cobra's shift. Only 2 shops in Salem and I don't trust either one of them.

This leaves me wondering, if a lot of shifting problems isn't the cable, but the shifter rod, wiper and or lower seal.