Re: Changed my shift cable, here is what I did. NOTE ** NEWBIE **
Thanks for the write up.
I do have a question(s). When reviewing the information and the jig you made, I noticed that the link/picture shows the measurement of the shift cable to be from the "Shift Pin Hole" not the bolt hole(http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/tcable1.jpg) If you measure from the bolt hole to the cable end, would that not be 3/8" off?
#83 SLIDE CASING GUIDE (F) AT ENGINE END OF CABLE IN OR OUT TO SET A 7 5/8" +/- 1/32" DIMENSION (G) AS MEASURED FROM THE CENTER OF THE SHIFT PIN HOLE (H) TO THE EDGE OF THE CABLE CRIMP.
Thanks for the write up.
I do have a question(s). When reviewing the information and the jig you made, I noticed that the link/picture shows the measurement of the shift cable to be from the "Shift Pin Hole" not the bolt hole(http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/tcable1.jpg) If you measure from the bolt hole to the cable end, would that not be 3/8" off?
#83 SLIDE CASING GUIDE (F) AT ENGINE END OF CABLE IN OR OUT TO SET A 7 5/8" +/- 1/32" DIMENSION (G) AS MEASURED FROM THE CENTER OF THE SHIFT PIN HOLE (H) TO THE EDGE OF THE CABLE CRIMP.
I just bought the boat in March, I got it for cheap. It is a solid boat with very little or no rot, mechanically it ran great, didn't jump out of gear, and there were no nasty sounds coming from the engine or outdrive. BUT, it took a high effort to shift, and when I was on the water it didn't like to come out of forward. No shift assist. I inspected the cable, and found the casing worn through behind the pivot housing. I read up on this for 2 weeks, downloaded the manual, figured stuff out, read up here, and this is the result.
Step one, disconnect cables and remove outdrive. Maybe buy better beer.
I used a universal on the 5/8 nuts. Someone must have changed these in the past, and I replaced them with some 18-8 stainless nylocks and chrome washers.
here is what I found underneath. I held the plastic part with an adjustable wrench while I removed the bolt. You also have to remove the the bellcrank.
This is the condition the cable was in. I cut the engine end of the inner cable, and pulled it through the pivot housing.
Next, after trying to get the cable end into the pivot housing, I removed the pivot housing and screwed the cable housing into the housing. Mine didn't have an o ring, and the new one didn't come with one, so I put a bunch of RTV on the threads, and threading it into the housing.
Then I used dish soap to lube up the end of the cable housing, put on the crinkled black housing protecter on the outside of the red cable housing, then inserted the whole thing through the transom hole, and wiggled the cable housing through the transom until the pivot housing lined up. I used some more RTV to seal up the drive shaft bellows, the torqued down the pivot housing bolts (1/2 inch allen). Then inserted the inner cable. It went through well considering the path it takes.
