Re: Choke adjustment question..........
I believe a couple of years ago, I rewired the choke selenoid per the service bulletin.....does the choke selenoid have a constant pull on the choke linkage if the wiring is not changed or correct??
So...at idle and warm, the choke plates should be wide open??
On the lower carb on the port side is a manual choke, it has three positions. All the way down in "choke ON". The middle position is where the choke can be activated by the selenoid and the third setting is choke wide open.
Why is this choke lever there...its not acessable unless the engine cover is removed, which is hard to do on the water.
Turn the key off--if the choke plates are now wide open, but are partially closed when the key is on (cold), then the warm-up function has not been disabled.
There are two coils inside the choke solenoid. There is a thermal switch in the cylinder block. When the motor is cold, the thermal switch activates one of the solenoid coils, partially closing the choke. When you operate the choke switch by the key, you activate the other coil. Therefor, when the motor is cold, you activate one coil and the thermal switch activates the other coil---BOTH are activated to slam the choke shut for a cold start. When you let up on your switch, only the thermal switch is activating one coil for warm-up operation.
Once the motor gets up to a certain temperature, the thermal switch shuts off and the choke should be wide open. It might be noted here that if your cooling system thermostat is stuck open or missing, the motor will not warm up properly and the thermal switch may stay closed for an extended length of time.
OK, the manual choke: It is for emergency use, not intended to be messed with every time you use the motor. So, the hood removal is no big deal. The only emergencies that might apply would be a flooded motor, a non-functioning electric choke, or a dead battery. Yes, believe it or not, you can manually choke and rope start a motor with a dead battery. If you have the muscles.
